razzor

With the new 199 software due it is in no way "soft"
It will be the punchiest of the current esc's available.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Yeah, that is set correctly. I am running a NW of 30 on both ESCs. I think I tried 15, 30, and 40... no difference.


Yes, and thanks Alex. It made for a ridiculous time. Every time my race came up, I had to “model reset”, then get all my trims set just to get out onto the track before the buzzer. 90% of the time my steering wasn’t exact and I was counter correcting the entire race, or pulling over DURING the race. Just for reference, All I basically do is set steering trim, epa down to about 70 (wgt has too much steering), and reverse throttle and steering. (Very vanilla). As soon as I power cycle the car…. Back to square one… I have to model reset.

If it were the booster, (yes, it’s a novak booser) wouldn’t the problem appear all the time? As soon as I model reset, the esc does it power-up cycle and the car drives just fine for the entire race.

I don’t think voltage cutoff is what I am seeing as the whole system runs strong as soon as I model reset. Transponder works, steering is fast, and the car is fast (other than my driving). Everything is wired up just great! What’s funny…. When building the car, it worked perfectly at my house. I powered it up and down numerous times at home when getting it running. It didn’t start until I brought it to the track last week.

Thanks steve… Ill take a closer look. What throttle setting would I be looking for? A model reset set’s them all to 100% I think… all I do is bring down my steering EPAs to about 70, and im off and running. Power cycle the car, and boom.. errors on the ESC. Iv never had this much trouble before with electronics on an RC. Very frustrating!

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

I don't think we ALL agree, I've actually stipped spur gears with the brakes on my RS and I can lock up the wheels running a duo 13.5 or 10.5 w/ lipo. In mod my brakes are down to about 30% because I lock up the wheels and spin off the track .

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

I should have clarified, 1-cell LiPo (3.7v) in 1/12 and WGT appear to be weak.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I've heard this about every single software release since the ESC hit the market. The strides Tekin have made on the top end, and in general are phenomenal, but there's a persistent feeling of it being very soft on the bottom that's hard to abide by. I know I'm not alone, many people have made mention of it in the past.

So, I'm curious if it's intentional, a limitation of the hardware, or something that can be resolved via software. It's really the only gripe I've got with the RS. Based on linger's earlier post, it appears you can solve some of that with radio tweaks, but that's inelegant.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I came to the realization in my last race yesterday, that I am at a distinct disadvantage running the RS in 17.5. I have gotten to the point where I am driving my TC very well around my local track. I can drive through the infield just as good as the other A main guys at my track, going neck and neck through the infield. As soon as we hit the side and back straight-aways, I lose a full second to the guys running the LRPs, EVERY lap. There is an obvious horsepower difference on open sections of the track... as much as 5 or 6 mph i would guess, and I am geared as well as I think I can be. 15 or so motor timing... 15 boost timing... geared around 4.7, coming off the track at about 165 degrees.

What really got me, was one time standing on the driver's stand, and this same guy that gets me down the straight every time was right on my tail as we were coming onto the back stretch.. and he says to me "watch... you can't do this with the tekin".. and he ZOOOMS past me on the straight like he had a little NOS bottle in his car or something. He started about 10 feet behind me, and finished the straight about 10 feet in front of me. Then neck and neck through the infield. I finished second in the A yesterday, and this guy finished 1st... by about 2/3rds of a lap.

I HATE it when I start to feel that equipment is what is holding me back, because 95% of the time it isn't, its the driving. But what I am seeing here is certainly a HP difference.

I guess this is just a rant post. Any ideas as to how I can squeeze some more HP out of my RS Pro?

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

It seems to me you may have your settings and gearing way off. 4.7 does not seem high enough. How big is your track and what software are you running?

Skitee

Well it's not really a HP problem when you think of it, it's more that you don't currently have the same sort of software trickery that the SPX guys do. I'm sure it won't be long now and Tekin will release the updated software with "TURBO TRICKERY" , I've been putting up with the same speed disadvantage down the straight as you just with me it's mostly people running Team Wave RB50's. Don't lose hope, Tekin takes care of there customers/users, they're just making 100% sure that what we get is the best they can possibly offer.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

V1.99 is coming. Supposedly, this will resolve the issue you speak of...
The 4.7 FDR seems a little too conservative for a 17.5 - typically I'll run no motor timing w/25 degrees of boost as a baseline, with an FDR of 4.3 at a minimum.

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

I bought an SPX and have tried it multiple times with many different gearings and I always go back to my tekin. The spx had no bottom end imo no matter how high or low you gear.

I out motored an spx on a 175 foot straight yesterday and had way more rip in the infield. Gearing is so important in brushless, one tooth can make the difference from a slow car to a rocket ship.

And in no way is 4.77 the right gearing for a 17.5 unless your track is 70 feet long.

timmay langdell

what i think most of you guys having speed and accelleration problems are is to do with gearing.
i was at one of the biggest tracks in the uk at the weekend, normaly i run a gearing of 4.6 with a nosram istc and nosram evo storm 10.5 motor, with the tekin it was 6.2(max boost and std motor timing) its a huge jump but was awsomely fast.
if the gearing is to low your have no accelleration and the motor will not wind up to it max revs, this is where i think most people are going wrong.

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

You are way under geared for normal 17.5 and std software.. Just a example I and most locals run 194 software, 10* on motor and MAX Timming boost (30)..We gear avg 4.11 med/large tracks and 4.31 for small bull rings(Carpet size) on rubber tires.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I didn't mean to rustle any feathers. Im just trying to work through a frustrating race day for me.

Since my post, I have seen people saying 4.7 is geared WAY too low. I have seen people say that 4.7 is geared WAY too high, and I have seen people blame motor temps on driving too agressive in the infield (which i dont think is true). Our latest track layout is just massive...(rubber, outside parking lot) we have a like a 60 foot side straight, and a 100 foot back straight (somebody from FW correct me if those numbers seem way off), and the 90 degree turn seperating the two straights you can take at full speed, so in reality, it's one massive straight.

Id LOVE to gear up, and during practice I did gear up to 4.3 or so, and I was MUCH faster, but my car was coming off the track at 180 degrees, and it was still a pretty cold morning. The motor always gets 20-30 degree hotter by the middle of the day, which is why I had to gear back down.

I am NOT running a fan however... is this the key? Fan the motor, gear up?

pakk

iTrader: (80)

I had to get a fan to get my setup where I wanted it. I run full boost and won't have it any other way. My fan and heatsink combo cool my setup a good 25degrees. I have plenty of room now for hot days.

--pakk

mikky32

It makes a different.
When I gear lighter the Turbo kicks in at about 15m on the straight.
When I gear heavy and I let the boost on what it is and the Turbo also. The Turbo kicks in at about 25m.
So it makes a different. I didn't change the time when the turbo must kick in, only the gearing.
When I lower the boost. the Turbo also kicks in faster.