Trips

iTrader: (16)

Let me say up front, I'm not with Tekin, or even a team driver, so I probably shouldn't be trying to answer questions here. That said, as far as I know, the different throttle profiles don't do anything to the timing as far as I know. If I'm wrong, someone in the know PLEASE correct me... I don't want to spread disinformation.

mikky32

yes, that's true.
The timing is on his own.
You can change timing without changing the throttle and the other way around.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Correct,

The profile settings are only setup(for now) to change the exponential curve.

Timing and Timing boost stand alone and are not affected by TP settings.

DriftDreamer06

iTrader: (12)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...13.5_setup.jpg

i see the timing boost but where is the timing?

the esc adds 0 timing if no boost is used?

motor 0*(really like 12*)+ esc 0* + timing boost 10* = 22* or
motor 0*(really like 12*)+ esc 10* + timing boost 10* = 32*

Racin'4-fun

mikky32

Motor 0*(realy like 12*)+ esc 15* + timing boosy 0* = 27*
Motor 0*(realy like 12*)+ esc 15* + timing boosy 10* = 37*

TRF415boy

That is not correct.

The ESC does only add the timing boost to the motor's timing and that is all.

So you get Motor 0º(around 12º in fact) + Boost 10º = 22º.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

The sensors don't go off right when the magnet is at "0" relative to the sensors...there is some pre-read and that is the 15 deg everyone says the esc adds. It is not exactly 15, but it is around there.

When setting the total timing for a 17.5, you can either forget about the pre-read and just add the timing on the motor and boost to look to be around 30 to 35 degrees, or you can figure in the 15 deg pre-read and go for 45 to 50. Its the same either way, but the second way actually tells what the timing actually is.

TRF415boy

This is why on the motor timing we are adding 12°. The timing comes from the sensors themselves and thus it is not correct to add it on the speedo. The speedo on itself only adds what is set on the timing boost to what it reads from the motor. What had been posted before was adding the built in timing twice.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

No, 12 degrees is what he sensors are actually at in many locked timing motors (eg novak) so you still have to add the ~15 of pre-read.

gortan

iTrader: (1)

could not find this info elsewhere...

in hybrid mode, when does the esc decide to switch to sensorless mode. What parameters is it looking at?

thanks..

g

TRF415boy

That's not how I read his post but whatever.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

I'm not sure what exactly the RS looks for, but the sensor LED's (last three on the RS) seem to stop flashing once the motor gets up to a certain RPM. There's probably more to it than just switching to sensorless based on RPM tho, but it might be proprietary info.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

I have a question for the guys at Tekin... I hope I can explain this clearly...

So in sensor mode, we add the boost to teh endbell setting to get total timing. But it'[s really an apporximation, because we don't know how early the sensors trigger in a specific motor. So there might be an extra 12 or fifteen degrees or so of advance in there depending on the motor, but we don't know exactly how much.

How about something like this... If the sensorless mode doesn't use the sensors to determine timing, it must be using the current generated in the windings and reading the phase wires. Then it adds the percentage advance to that depending n where we set the slider (in dual mode)

SO... if the RS can find the zero timing point in dual mode, how about looking for the true zero point without the sensors, then lookaing at what the sensors are saying, and reporting the difference to the user so we know exactly where we're setting our timing... Lets say I set my motor to what the endbell lable "says" is ten degrees, could the RS see what the actual firing of the sensor is compared to what the phase wires tell it, and then tell me that I'm REALLY getting 10, or 20, or 22, or whatever? With 7 LED's on the RS, you could express up to 128 as a binary... or put a field in the hotwire screen to show the value?

Hope that made sense... I'm probably missing something in my thinking here... it couldn't be that easy, could it?

M-Tune

I have the Tekin RS Pro. I have adjusted the brakes to the max amount (I think. All the way to the right last led light). But it still will roll to a stop. I had the LRP TC and it brakes stopped instantly. Should the brakes be working better than a roll to a stop or is that normal with tekin?

miller tyme

iTrader: (5)

For those unclear on the Sensor timing applied here is what is happening:

Picture 2 magnets, as the approach the have an attraction as the get closer it gets stronger till they snap together.

The Hall sensor works similarly in that it has a point (not dead Center) where it starts to read the magnetic pole. In addition to this lead angle represented by a conical shape spreading away from the sensor, the shimming of the rotor and the strength of the rotor all contribute to vary this early detection window. It's exact value will very from motor to motor within the same batch due to tolerances but in general it should all be fairly close. Most seem to agree from 12-15 degrees, my fining is this is less than 1 tooth variance in 1/12.

TRIPS : Your idea sounds good but I'm not sure of the programming logistic or space available. Personally I would not use the info. If you trying to compare your motor to my motor for instance timing is only part, we'd also have to check rotor strength and inductance and driving style, otherwise timing comparison would only show a partial picture and for reasons of gearing not any more precise as a whole than the 3 degree variance.