Tekin RS ESC sensored
10-25-2010, 07:52 AM
3.7 x kv = rpm
10-25-2010, 07:56 AM
Tech Adept
If you do the math on a 3.7 volt 1S it will only turn 8800 max. That's "no load", meaning free spinning on the bench, not even in the car yet. When you go into a car under load, it becomes dependent on your gearing. Each driver has to gauge it from there. You will be substantially under that max figure.
10-25-2010, 08:06 AM
Just keep in mind that adding boost/turbo can effectively multiply the max rpm by roughly 1.4 to 1.8.
10-25-2010, 08:29 AM
Your RPM range is to high. the motor never runs out of the top end of the RPM setting, then your hitting it with 10 Turbo while it's still trying to apply Boost. Common issue for most users. You may try moving your RPM range down to make room for Turbo to apply independently. Also, move the Delay setting a few tenths longer. The goal is "coordinate" the settings, not "overlap".
10-25-2010, 09:56 AM
Here's a question: Why doesn't the Advanced option tab open up when I try to click on it? That's the one to see which version you're using.
10-25-2010, 10:03 AM
It should. When that happens to me I just close it out and restart it. It used to happen to me on V203 after I applied setting or updated. It hasn't happened to me in V212 yet.
10-25-2010, 10:09 AM
Ok, I'll have to try that. I wanted to verify if the ESC was indeed updated and it wouldn't open but I didn't try closing it and then reopenning it.
10-25-2010, 10:18 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
I think COOKIE is right on with this! Dropping the amount of Boost should help. If you want to keep tinkering beyond that, here are a couple of other things. Your RPM range is to high. the motor never runs out of the top end of the RPM setting, then your hitting it with 10 Turbo while it's still trying to apply Boost. Common issue for most users. You may try moving your RPM range down to make room for Turbo to apply independently. Also, move the Delay setting a few tenths longer. The goal is "coordinate" the settings, not "overlap".
Just a thought...I vaguely remember somebody mentioning an issue with KO radios (I use an EX-1 UR) not registering full-throttle even if the trigger is pulled fully. Is it possible that at the start of the race I'm getting full throttle but part way through it drifts down enough to cause the reduced performance? If so is there any fix for this issue?
Thanks again for the assistance!
Cheers,
Mike
10-25-2010, 12:06 PM
Just a thought...I vaguely remember somebody mentioning an issue with KO radios (I use an EX-1 UR) not registering full-throttle even if the trigger is pulled fully. Is it possible that at the start of the race I'm getting full throttle but part way through it drifts down enough to cause the reduced performance? If so is there any fix for this issue?
Thanks again for the assistance!
Cheers,
Mike
Thanks again for the assistance!
Cheers,
Mike
10-25-2010, 01:07 PM
Randy, can the regular RS handle lower than 5t with 1s lipo?
10-25-2010, 01:12 PM
You are going to want a pro for 1s mod. I tried a 6.5 and 
had thermal issues with a regular RS. Yes, its less voltage but because of that, it's more current.
had thermal issues with a regular RS. Yes, its less voltage but because of that, it's more current.
10-25-2010, 01:33 PM
Do you have to have the capacitor soldered into the ESC on the RS Pro? I have seen some builds where they seem to not run the ESC capacitor. I know they are not to be used on the motor but I am wondering why they still need to be used on the ESC.
10-25-2010, 01:37 PM
Tekins says to always run a cap so I always do. With that being said, I have gone several races in both 1s and 2s 17.5 classes where the cap fell off and I didn't know. It didn't seem to make a difference, but that's 17.5.
10-25-2010, 01:46 PM
jim and randy say to run a cap and i run a cap. they also say to install it as close as you can to the esc.
10-25-2010, 02:00 PM
Tech Addict
I don't run the cap, and so far it has been okay. I have had one glitch, but that could have been the radio, because I haven't had any problems since.