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Old 10-25-2010, 08:52 AM   #17896
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3.7 x kv = rpm
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:56 AM   #17897
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If you do the math on a 3.7 volt 1S it will only turn 8800 max. That's "no load", meaning free spinning on the bench, not even in the car yet. When you go into a car under load, it becomes dependent on your gearing. Each driver has to gauge it from there. You will be substantially under that max figure.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:06 AM   #17898
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Just keep in mind that adding boost/turbo can effectively multiply the max rpm by roughly 1.4 to 1.8.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:29 AM   #17899
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Originally Posted by VRacing View Post
Your RPM range is to high. the motor never runs out of the top end of the RPM setting, then your hitting it with 10 Turbo while it's still trying to apply Boost. Common issue for most users. You may try moving your RPM range down to make room for Turbo to apply independently. Also, move the Delay setting a few tenths longer. The goal is "coordinate" the settings, not "overlap".
I dunno man, my settings overlap... and my TC is quite the rocket. Spacebound even...
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:56 AM   #17900
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Here's a question: Why doesn't the Advanced option tab open up when I try to click on it? That's the one to see which version you're using.
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:03 AM   #17901
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Here's a question: Why doesn't the Advanced option tab open up when I try to click on it? That's the one to see which version you're using.
It should. When that happens to me I just close it out and restart it. It used to happen to me on V203 after I applied setting or updated. It hasn't happened to me in V212 yet.
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:09 AM   #17902
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It should. When that happens to me I just close it out and restart it. It used to happen to me on V203 after I applied setting or updated. It hasn't happened to me in V212 yet.
Ok, I'll have to try that. I wanted to verify if the ESC was indeed updated and it wouldn't open but I didn't try closing it and then reopenning it.
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:18 AM   #17903
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looks like you are overheating the motor maybe, usually a problem caused by overtiming the motor.

Drop the Boost by 8-12' to start with and also activate the limiter to around 90-95%.
Thanks for the suggestion...I will try reducing the Boost however I forgot to include the fact that the motor is coming off @ ~115 F so I'm not convinced that it's actually overheating...I've had motors go up to 160 F with no ill effects in the past.

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I think COOKIE is right on with this! Dropping the amount of Boost should help. If you want to keep tinkering beyond that, here are a couple of other things. Your RPM range is to high. the motor never runs out of the top end of the RPM setting, then your hitting it with 10 Turbo while it's still trying to apply Boost. Common issue for most users. You may try moving your RPM range down to make room for Turbo to apply independently. Also, move the Delay setting a few tenths longer. The goal is "coordinate" the settings, not "overlap".
Thank you for that...I suspect you're right about the RPM range although I know several other drivers that are using the same settings on this track and they are not getting the same problem that I'm experiencing.

Just a thought...I vaguely remember somebody mentioning an issue with KO radios (I use an EX-1 UR) not registering full-throttle even if the trigger is pulled fully. Is it possible that at the start of the race I'm getting full throttle but part way through it drifts down enough to cause the reduced performance? If so is there any fix for this issue?

Thanks again for the assistance!

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:06 PM   #17904
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Just a thought...I vaguely remember somebody mentioning an issue with KO radios (I use an EX-1 UR) not registering full-throttle even if the trigger is pulled fully. Is it possible that at the start of the race I'm getting full throttle but part way through it drifts down enough to cause the reduced performance? If so is there any fix for this issue?

Thanks again for the assistance!

Cheers,
Mike
If you suspect that to the be the case, pull your throttle EPA down 10%, recalibrate the ESC, and then put the EPA back to normal. Run a pack and see if that makes a difference.
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:07 PM   #17905
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Randy, can the regular RS handle lower than 5t with 1s lipo?
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:12 PM   #17906
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You are going to want a pro for 1s mod. I tried a 6.5 and had thermal issues with a regular RS. Yes, its less voltage but because of that, it's more current.
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:33 PM   #17907
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Do you have to have the capacitor soldered into the ESC on the RS Pro? I have seen some builds where they seem to not run the ESC capacitor. I know they are not to be used on the motor but I am wondering why they still need to be used on the ESC.
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:37 PM   #17908
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Tekins says to always run a cap so I always do. With that being said, I have gone several races in both 1s and 2s 17.5 classes where the cap fell off and I didn't know. It didn't seem to make a difference, but that's 17.5.
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:46 PM   #17909
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jim and randy say to run a cap and i run a cap. they also say to install it as close as you can to the esc.
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:00 PM   #17910
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I don't run the cap, and so far it has been okay. I have had one glitch, but that could have been the radio, because I haven't had any problems since.
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