The result in that race was no good at all... :cry:

However, it's hard to judge the car based on that. First of all, I'm no top class driver. Second, I got the car a few days before the race and did 2 packs with the car before qualifying started and had no spare parts...

Towards the end of the race I think the setup was about 80% there. It felt ok on the track in the end and looked ok. It still needed more work though to get it to be consistent and easy to drive over 5 minutes. I also would have needed to find 2-3 tenths in lap time.

I have been very busy lately so unfortunately I have not managed to run the car extensively after the race.

The car has many nice features and comes very nicely presented. On carpet (the only surface I have run it on) I would say it still needs some work to get it to perform optimally at the highest level. If this can be reached just by perfecting the setup or if it needs some developments - I'm not in a position to answer, due to my limited time with the car.

Kenneth

my E4 setup
 

it's my E4 outdoor setup (middle ~ large circuit)

i made 1.4mm stebil bar cutting long body pin.

http://kfactoryracing.com/INS/K%20Fa...101-banner.jpg K Factory is proud to present the latest option part for the electric touring car. The TC Motor Cooling Head will fit the Team Magic E4 perfectly, as well as any other electric car with a transverse mounted motor.
http://kfactoryracing.com/BIG/K%20FACTORY/K71/K7101.jpg http://kfactoryracing.com/INS/K%20Fa...utok/IMAGE.jpg
The TC Motor Cooling Head is machined out of aluminium, anodized black and will effectively cool the motor due to a well thought-out design. Compared to most other heat sinks, the fins of the K Factory TC Motor Cooling Head is turned 90 degrees. By turning the fins this way air will be able to constantly pass through the heat sink. This means that the heat sink will be much more effective, using the airflow inside the car to help increase the cooling effect dramatically.

As to further improve the cooling effect, K Factory exclusively includes a special thermal pad with each TC Motor Cooling Head. The improved cooling effect of the TC Motor Cooling Head means that your motor will perform at its highest level for longer, perhaps giving you that crucial advantage needed! Efficiency will be dramatically improves, while a cooler motor also means less wear, prolonging the life of your favourite motor.

To give the TC Motor Cooling Head that K Factory look, the beautifully machined lightweight heat sink is anodized black and engraved with the K Factory logo.

http://kfactoryracing.com/INS/K%20Fa...N%20MANUAL.jpg http://kfactoryracing.com/INS/K%20Fa...nstruction.jpg

If they could incorporate a fan then it would be even better.
The nosram heatsink i think is the best.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...amheatsink.jpg

I got the car put together today, But damn the belt is just way to tight. So right now I have the belt soaked to WD40 see how it feels tomorrow. Car was really easy to put together quality is very good, I can't believe how narrow the chassis is. I thought my MI3 have a narrowest chassis but not!!!!!!!!!!! I'm running brushless using GTB ESC so it will be a tight fit.....

I also used the tamiya spring, See how that works. But need to get some more HPI springs.....

I also need to get a low profile servo, standard servo is sticking out too far.

Well so far soo good. sucks that I can't run this car probably not till about next year....

K Factory E4 Anti-Roll Bar

http://teammagic.com.tw/big\K FACTORY\K21\k2107.jpg http://teammagic.com.tw/big\K FACTORY\K21\k2108.jpg

Every E4 is tight out of the box. Trust me it will free up a good 30-40% from new. WD40 will help a lot. I personally used some 30wt shock oil, a couple of drops on each belt worked a treat.

Ari

Yes, this is true, but after 10-12 packs the car are more free up. I have a good setup base for rubbers in asphalt, the car have a good aceleration and is more easy to drive with a quit pass trought curves.
Here is my setup, i like if someone probe it, i would like to comment on the good things and bad, of course.
In other hand, i talk with Patrick Jasmin (JPproducts) for make a front spool, more light, i think the car will be even faster with it.

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/6663/e4aspeew9.jpg

TM will release nylon plastic pully sets soon.. :smile:

Who carry K-factory parts here in U.S?

Hey... question for you on this page: http://www.rchome.com.tw/cgi-bin/top...art=108&show=0

What's going on toward the bottom of the page? Mainly the last picture. Just wondering. Looks like he's having some sort of problem with the cvd in earlier pics. It appears he put something like heat shrink tubing on the joint? Did it work for him?

Look at the picture above it. It looks like the blade for the dogbone spread which lead to a little bit of damage on the out drive. I suspect the heat shrink is to stop the blade from spreading again.

Snapped both front UJ's the other day... anyone else experienced this too?

Saw my first real live E4 at the track tonight (Trackside Hobbies) looked like a very nice car. It qualified second in 13.5 rubber tire its first time out so it seems to have a lot of potential :nod:

you know, i hate to ask this but if possible, or if someone knows, how does this car compare to the JRXS-R (asphalt/rubber)? They both seem very "centrally" oriented (the losi more so) but i dunno...anyone?

I get E4 recently and my friend play losi JRX, I find that losi is more stable but less punch due to heavy weight if use the same motor

also, I find some problem on E4 dog bone it easy to break

Who makes the aluminium rear hubs?

like this

so I try to use 415 MSX dog bone hup on E4, although it is not 100% fit, but Much better than the original one

here is some photo of my car

The steering is upside down... why?

yes, because I am using lipo that not fit the original design, so I have to change the steering. After it, they perfect match! :lol:

TM have some coming out for the e4.

It will make it to air
 

We have received numerous requests to have the E4 Sedan from Team Magic reviewed on www.rctvlive.com. We are pleased to announce we will have the E4 on a future episode. Thanks for your interest. Jeff

Can someone tell me the spring rate of the standard Kit springs Please

I have found my old Yokomo T/C springs fit if this helps anyone

HTH

Besides overseas where can one get this car and parts readily for this chassis?

Im close to get the E4 BUT
 

What is the weak point of this car ( i will only runt 27T Stock untill i get more Licens points,to do Mod). What is the most comon parts that breaks? what spare should or MUST i have,how is the Belts,the diffs. Did see a pic of the D-bones..that didnt look to good, will this be a issiue on a 27T car?

I will run schumacher rubbers,and a 27T motor, tracks are preaty medium, and grip is medium...what Pinion and Spurs is recomended to have in the butler?

For motor i wi use a Tuned Advance 27T and Advance 5.0 ESC. think 5 cells TSR will be enough.

tips and hints would be good...2 of my club m8s running the E4, one 27T and the other Mod..the ar seems REAL smoth...:)

nude E4
 

http://pds52.cafe.daum.net/image/4/c.../47541f61d3ca5


nessary spare parts: rear,front belts, front/rear susarm,knuckle arm, drive shaft pin protector

Wa !

ok, but in stock 27 i dont think the belts will go, but i ordred some anyway...we only using Schumacher rubbers, no track sauce... What range of springs, and Where can i getém? my local hobbyshop is a TM dealer, but dont have al parts yet, but all the NT arts, will thoose springs fit? and what oil is usble? what W?

i always run E4 with 3.5 or 4.5 brushless motors.

i used TM G4S Spring 1.4,1.5 and shock oil was 350 ~ 450W.

and i also used serpent yellow,white front spring(GP spring)

perfect Gansei, ut ya see i want that to, i have a few systems here..but my License wont let me compete in the Modified class :flaming::D..thank god thats no issiue in buggy for me, free motors/esc

but very much thank you for thoose tips, il get thos asap...maybe some softer...

E4 alum Top Deck middle mount
 

E4 alum Top Deck middle mount

it help to decrease chassis roll....

it will be best option in carpet race or high-grip traction circuit..

http://pds54.cafe.daum.net/image/9/c.../47553c20a213a

http://pds54.cafe.daum.net/image/8/c.../47553c2a219a8

http://pds54.cafe.daum.net/image/8/c.../47553c364d29f

http://pds54.cafe.daum.net/image/6/c.../47553c4564db4

Nice looking Turnbuckles what are they Off , I am yet to run my E4 but the
turnbuckles do worry me they look very weak :eek:

the turnbuckles was mixed products.. kysho, mugen, academy..

i preper the hole embeded turnbuckles!!

Any tip for how i will mount the batterybars at the end of each pack? 5 cell config.Check Ganesi´s lauyout no problem with batt tubes on + and -,BUT with 5 cells it will not be so much space between topdeck and servo..

Hello Isaac, You can get the g4rs, e4 and g4+ at SpeedWorld in Calif. They have them and getting the g4 rs this week.
www.speedworldraceway.com

Hope this helps

I would like to know is this know optional parts fit with orion li-po 3200?

my li-po 4800 was fit with this option..

I run with 5 cells, and not have problem with conectors, the - i have in the rear right, near to ESC and the + in the left, near to midle belt.

In the other hand, i testing more the car, and the feel is good, but i need more agile in front, i modified the rear arms, and now can adjust the wheellbase in 2mm, the car is more reactive when is short, and for me, is more fast.
In front, i feel the steering system, more flex, and have bump steer, if add washer to steering block, the bump steer is reduced, but the steering block flex and make the steering slowly, and litle imprecise.
Now, i put the steering carbon brace upside down, how the photo, but i suplement the plastic braces, because touch in the top deck, and for make more consistent this zone, i have not yet tested, but i reduce the washer in steering block to 2 mm, and the bump steer is insignificant.
I dont have any problem with the dogbones, are very good, but the blades in rear break, and in the list of parts is the same ref, to the dogbone, i hope TM that manufactured separately, for now i adapted a Xray blades.
And the next week, i hope to testing the new spool.
For now is .2 -.3s , more slow, to the Cyclone in the same circuit, same tyres, same electronic, and same driver, but i need more work with he.

Sorry if my English is not more readable, ;-)

Greetings, Luis C.

Has anyone made o front Diff for there E4 ? looking at it i am wondering if a Tamiya 415 rear diff might fit ill try it later

Front diff maybe a good option for tight tracks as as we all know a hard impact with a spool in means somthings got to give as earlyer mentioned in this tread by somone who,s drive shafts keep breaking .....

Cant wait to run mine for the first time Sunday...........