Team Magic E4 Thread
#3708
Tech Initiate
I had an rs and loved it! I regret selling it. I'm getting an fs tomorrow and can't wait to run it! I've been looking through this thread and it has some awesome info on the cars! I can't wait to get some '11 cars! I wish alot more people would give these cars a chance! There purely awesome in my opinion!
#3710
Tech Adept
#3711
Tech Adept
More news soon. We are testing many solutions.
#3713
I don't know about anyone else but if the E4 isn't as "free" as 2 belt cars, it doesn't seem to make any difference going around the track. I race 25.5 and 21.5 classes and temps are always great so there's no drag issues. The great handling helps make each lap as smooth as possible. Smooth is fast as they say.
#3714
Tech Adept
What do you mean exactly about independent suspension ?
This is a point that works nice on my cars (original / own prototype / factory prototype). The only I thing I personnally modified on the suspensions is the roll center. To update it, we changed the rear uprights and front/rear upper bulkheads, and we use spacers under arm holders / pivot ball to fine tune it.
I also modified the rear shock tower, to use "normal" springs with a correct ride height.
The most important modifications are central / front flex (chassis, upper deck), rear flex (motor mount, opposite axle mount, motor position), lipo fitting, steering turnbuckle's position (roll center/bump steer), weight distribution (motor position, servo position).
The major modifications aren't impressive to see, this is not a radical change of layout, but they are made to drastically improve the car handling and performances. This is months of works (since end may 2010).
I'm happy with the majority of these modifications, and we have to validate some other soon.
#3715
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Pic's or it didn't happen
I find my TM E4RS08 rather planted at the moment.
I now have the luxery that i need to find more steering in my car.
Working on that one tho.
Have 2 TC i am driving with but for the moment my "other" TC is faster in a single lap(by 2 tenth) but overall the TM is faster driving it for say 25 to 30 laps(about 2 tenth).
Both run the same setup ESC/motor wise and gearing is almost the same.
Need to figure out if upgrading to the E4RS11 is worth spending the money or just stay with the E4RS08 as i have a rather "special" one.
regards Roy
I find my TM E4RS08 rather planted at the moment.
I now have the luxery that i need to find more steering in my car.
Working on that one tho.
Have 2 TC i am driving with but for the moment my "other" TC is faster in a single lap(by 2 tenth) but overall the TM is faster driving it for say 25 to 30 laps(about 2 tenth).
Both run the same setup ESC/motor wise and gearing is almost the same.
Need to figure out if upgrading to the E4RS11 is worth spending the money or just stay with the E4RS08 as i have a rather "special" one.
regards Roy
Hello
What do you mean exactly about independent suspension ?
This is a point that works nice on my cars (original / own prototype / factory prototype). The only I thing I personnally modified on the suspensions is the roll center. To update it, we changed the rear uprights and front/rear upper bulkheads, and we use spacers under arm holders / pivot ball to fine tune it.
I also modified the rear shock tower, to use "normal" springs with a correct ride height.
The most important modifications are central / front flex (chassis, upper deck), rear flex (motor mount, opposite axle mount, motor position), lipo fitting, steering turnbuckle's position (roll center/bump steer), weight distribution (motor position, servo position).
The major modifications aren't impressive to see, this is not a radical change of layout, but they are made to drastically improve the car handling and performances. This is months of works (since end may 2010).
I'm happy with the majority of these modifications, and we have to validate some other soon.
What do you mean exactly about independent suspension ?
This is a point that works nice on my cars (original / own prototype / factory prototype). The only I thing I personnally modified on the suspensions is the roll center. To update it, we changed the rear uprights and front/rear upper bulkheads, and we use spacers under arm holders / pivot ball to fine tune it.
I also modified the rear shock tower, to use "normal" springs with a correct ride height.
The most important modifications are central / front flex (chassis, upper deck), rear flex (motor mount, opposite axle mount, motor position), lipo fitting, steering turnbuckle's position (roll center/bump steer), weight distribution (motor position, servo position).
The major modifications aren't impressive to see, this is not a radical change of layout, but they are made to drastically improve the car handling and performances. This is months of works (since end may 2010).
I'm happy with the majority of these modifications, and we have to validate some other soon.
#3717
Tech Adept
My RF and FR suspension mounts aren't screwed anymore to the bulkhead since my second day of running with the E4RS.
This is a thing that every E4RS driver can do himself. On my cars, I place the M3x6mm screws to join the RF and FR suspension mounts inside the bulkhead, not outside. So, the suspension mounts are totally free to move up/down, the screw is only a "guide" for them. It's a great difference on the rear, where flex is more better this way. I also use plastic rear bulkheads when I need more flex.
---
To obtain more corner speed, I usually work on the roll center (you can try the upper hole on the rear uprights, with 1mm shim under the RF and RR suspension mounts, it works very good). For stock spec categories (10.5 / 13.5), I usually run without anti roll bars, with Kfactory 25 or 26 springs on the front, and 26 or 27 on the rear.
Bumpsteer is also very important. I use a minimum of 13mm spacers between front steering block and pivot ball.
#3719
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
Found my steering problem
I've been having a problem with the E4JS having too much steering such that it handled erratically. Did everything possible to reduce steering such as stiffer springs, reduced front droop and radio dual rate reduction and it still didn't help.
I gave up on it and went with my XRay and it too had the same problem except not as bad. Looked at the XRay manual to check set up and found that it had little to no ackerman. Changed it and problem was solved. Looked at the E4JS and it had the same problem. The steering pivot was on the front hole instead of the rear hole. Had I known to change that it would have saved me a bunch of frustration.
Still looking forward to Yodog's chassis conversion. This thread hasn't been bumped in almost a month.
I gave up on it and went with my XRay and it too had the same problem except not as bad. Looked at the XRay manual to check set up and found that it had little to no ackerman. Changed it and problem was solved. Looked at the E4JS and it had the same problem. The steering pivot was on the front hole instead of the rear hole. Had I known to change that it would have saved me a bunch of frustration.
Still looking forward to Yodog's chassis conversion. This thread hasn't been bumped in almost a month.
#3720
Tech Adept
Hello
You can try to add 0.5 or 1mm spacer under the FF and FR arm holder.
You also can add shims under the inner upper turnbuckle's balls
You could also check if the problem is not on the rear... if you have too low rear grip, you can think you have too much front grip.
You can try to add 0.5 or 1mm spacer under the FF and FR arm holder.
You also can add shims under the inner upper turnbuckle's balls
You could also check if the problem is not on the rear... if you have too low rear grip, you can think you have too much front grip.