R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric On-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road-2/)
-   -   Team Magic E4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/204165-team-magic-e4-thread.html)

YLLIB 12-05-2007 09:48 PM

Hello Isaac, You can get the g4rs, e4 and g4+ at SpeedWorld in Calif. They have them and getting the g4 rs this week.
www.speedworldraceway.com

Hope this helps

billbill4u 12-05-2007 10:37 PM

I would like to know is this know optional parts fit with orion li-po 3200?

gansei 12-06-2007 12:06 AM


Originally Posted by billbill4u (Post 3943634)
I would like to know is this know optional parts fit with orion li-po 3200?

my li-po 4800 was fit with this option..

luic 12-06-2007 03:31 AM


Originally Posted by Thomas P (Post 3943479)
Any tip for how i will mount the batterybars at the end of each pack? 5 cell config.Check Ganesi´s lauyout no problem with batt tubes on + and -,BUT with 5 cells it will not be so much space between topdeck and servo..

I run with 5 cells, and not have problem with conectors, the - i have in the rear right, near to ESC and the + in the left, near to midle belt.

In the other hand, i testing more the car, and the feel is good, but i need more agile in front, i modified the rear arms, and now can adjust the wheellbase in 2mm, the car is more reactive when is short, and for me, is more fast.
In front, i feel the steering system, more flex, and have bump steer, if add washer to steering block, the bump steer is reduced, but the steering block flex and make the steering slowly, and litle imprecise.
Now, i put the steering carbon brace upside down, how the photo, but i suplement the plastic braces, because touch in the top deck, and for make more consistent this zone, i have not yet tested, but i reduce the washer in steering block to 2 mm, and the bump steer is insignificant.
I dont have any problem with the dogbones, are very good, but the blades in rear break, and in the list of parts is the same ref, to the dogbone, i hope TM that manufactured separately, for now i adapted a Xray blades.
And the next week, i hope to testing the new spool.
For now is .2 -.3s , more slow, to the Cyclone in the same circuit, same tyres, same electronic, and same driver, but i need more work with he.

Sorry if my English is not more readable, ;-)

Greetings, Luis C.

cuttingedge 12-06-2007 05:37 AM

Has anyone made o front Diff for there E4 ? looking at it i am wondering if a Tamiya 415 rear diff might fit ill try it later

Front diff maybe a good option for tight tracks as as we all know a hard impact with a spool in means somthings got to give as earlyer mentioned in this tread by somone who,s drive shafts keep breaking .....

Cant wait to run mine for the first time Sunday...........

gansei 12-06-2007 07:06 AM

front bearing block
 
http://pds50.cafe.daum.net/image/11/.../47580f6224401

http://pds50.cafe.daum.net/image/14/.../47580f6285299

http://pds50.cafe.daum.net/image/12/.../47580f62ea397

Jochim_18 12-06-2007 04:26 PM

where can you get those K factory option parts fot the E4?

gansei 12-07-2007 01:38 AM


Originally Posted by Jochim_18 (Post 3945968)
where can you get those K factory option parts fot the E4?

i buy it from korea TM Dristributor.

NZHobbies 12-08-2007 11:59 AM

I have two E4 cars that I run
One in Stock 27T silver can which has had no problems
One in Mod 4.5 Brushless 5 or 6 cell. This car has snapped 7 UJ's in 3 meetings
Anyone have a quick fix to stop this happening?

After a year off racing electric I have found these cars very easy to drive with top results gained running the cars out of the box. Lots of rear end grip with excellent handling.

Grindog001 12-08-2007 04:28 PM

Hi Gensei, Just wondering what the red screw on your top deck is screwing in to? Mine just has a plastic insert there with no mention in the book?

many thanks, john

gansei 12-08-2007 05:30 PM


Originally Posted by Grindog001 (Post 3952303)
Hi Gensei, Just wondering what the red screw on your top deck is screwing in to? Mine just has a plastic insert there with no mention in the book?

many thanks, john

it is just decoration.. :D:D

Thomas P 12-09-2007 09:06 AM

any news or ideas on Steel CVDs rear?, the alu wont last longtime..a friend does Mod, and he snapped 2 today on poor gripp carpet... any ideas? no other brands that is direct fit?

gansei 12-09-2007 09:11 AM


Originally Posted by Thomas P (Post 3954358)
any news or ideas on Steel CVDs rear?, the alu wont last longtime..a friend does Mod, and he snapped 2 today on poor gripp carpet... any ideas? no other brands that is direct fit?

Rear CVD is not Steel.. it is aluminum...

front CVD is Steel...

is it fit front CVD on rear?

Thomas P 12-09-2007 09:59 AM

ahh, maybe i wrote little wrong, rear CVDs are snapping off like toothsticks, they are Alu.

is there any news if Steel is coming for rear? OR can front be used @rear?

can other brand be fitted until TM reelese any Steel rear cvds?

billbill4u 12-09-2007 09:39 PM


Originally Posted by Thomas P (Post 3954479)
ahh, maybe i wrote little wrong, rear CVDs are snapping off like toothsticks, they are Alu.

is there any news if Steel is coming for rear? OR can front be used @rear?

can other brand be fitted until TM reelese any Steel rear cvds?

I have the same problem and I use front CVD on rear that fit.

However, my front CVD broken too, now I use 415msx front CVD & hubs fit on E4, I really hope TM can modify they CVD, it too weak!


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:38 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.