Team Magic E4 Thread
01-21-2010 | 03:11 AM
#2972
That isn't just due to the axle but also in the rear bearing hubs and the front steeringblocks.
I used the Wolf hobbies rear hubs and the red alloy steeringblocks and the play is almost gone.
Also i won't have to use the spacers that are normally on the inside of the axle at the CVD's
cheers Roy
I used the Wolf hobbies rear hubs and the red alloy steeringblocks and the play is almost gone.
Also i won't have to use the spacers that are normally on the inside of the axle at the CVD's
cheers Roy
01-21-2010 | 07:01 AM
#2973
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Pre-assembled kit does not mean it is ready to RACE...far from it. When I first get the kit, I actually disassemble the whole kit and rebuild it per my way to build RC car. Kinda wish they didn't build the car at the beginning.
I am sure the person who pre-build the car is NOT a RC racer, with $5 an hour pay and need to build 10 E4RS within 1 hour...
01-21-2010 | 07:05 AM
#2974
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
I just got the car and only have the experience of driving a TC3 to compare to. But my understanding that the new shocks they have on the latest e4rs are pretty good. I just got the springs so we shall see this sunday how well they work. They'll probably work pretty good for a rookie driver but my understanding of how the car should work and what changes to start with if there are problems is pretty good.
I did order replacement rear and front arms for it and the ones I got from wolf are not like the ones I have on my car. the ones on my car have a metal shaft that runs the length of them . It's like it was molded in the plastic. I don't know why they sent me those. But they sure are lighter. But am afraid they won't be as durable. See, I have a tendency to hit stuff. As my buddies say, I'm still in driving school. I need to learn to drive in the center of the track 1st then learn to cut corners. Thanks for the info, we have a schumacher sponsored driver at our track and I can pick his brain on what he uses. Vinny
I did order replacement rear and front arms for it and the ones I got from wolf are not like the ones I have on my car. the ones on my car have a metal shaft that runs the length of them . It's like it was molded in the plastic. I don't know why they sent me those. But they sure are lighter. But am afraid they won't be as durable. See, I have a tendency to hit stuff. As my buddies say, I'm still in driving school. I need to learn to drive in the center of the track 1st then learn to cut corners. Thanks for the info, we have a schumacher sponsored driver at our track and I can pick his brain on what he uses. Vinny
01-21-2010 | 06:08 PM
#2976
01-22-2010 | 05:46 AM
#2982
From what I understand from "wyd" on this thread is that the tray you speak of is better for packs that have round corners. He had to mill his out to get some packs to fit. Orion packs are rounded and some others just come to a point/corner.
01-22-2010 | 07:39 AM
#2983
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
If possible, pick the lipo packs that use bullet plugs instead of wires coming out with deans plug...this is only if you are using E4 series TC car.
I am still using my 3 years old Orion carbon 3600 and 3800 running on 17.5 and 13.5 classes and on FOAMS. No run time issue. I just don't believe in these C rating thingy.
I am still using my 3 years old Orion carbon 3600 and 3800 running on 17.5 and 13.5 classes and on FOAMS. No run time issue. I just don't believe in these C rating thingy.
01-22-2010 | 11:26 AM
#2985
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 21,220
From: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Isaac is correct. I had a buddy mill about 1mm all the way around the inside of the steel tray and square the corners off so my SMC 4100 packs would fit. The Orion Platinum4800 and 5000 packs fit the steel tray with no modifications.