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hey wolf any word on the one piece axles..and the hubs???
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Originally Posted by bender
(Post 5580481)
Raise the front layshaft housing (the one with the two small pulleys near the front of the car) by 1mm. This will loosen both the front and middle belts - makes quite a difference!
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant
(Post 5553538)
Ok... this may sound a bit strange but ...
A few holes , A couple bearing blocks, 4 beveled gears.... Yes Zosha! A side drive shaft. |
Originally Posted by bender
(Post 5580481)
Raise the front layshaft housing (the one with the two small pulleys near the front of the car) by 1mm. This will loosen both the front and middle belts - makes quite a difference!
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any chance on getting a set up for indoor carpet on foams and a out door set up
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by smyka
(Post 5586554)
any chance on getting a set up for indoor carpet on foams and a out door set up
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Smyka, you have PM.
liljohn, most of the issue is due to the plastic tub of the JS. Both my RS and FS are pretty 'free' with no extensive work. Could they be more efficient, sure. The side belt pulleys are too small and the centers are too. As is my cars and Dave Ehrlich's are pretty good for efficiency. Will you be attending the Trans Am Nats next month? I will be there with my E4RS. Stop by and I'll show you everything I've done with my car. Congrats to Dave on his A main finish at the Carpet Nats. Wish I could have been there to make it two E4s in the main. Socko |
I'm trying to talk my wife into it Jonny. We'll see. I think If I had just picked up an RS instead of a JS in the first place, life would have been much better.
I think a spacer under the layshaft might be a good starting point though as it would add slack to both the center and front belt and take the tweak out of the front lay shaft. If this solves it, I'm going to be extremely happy. Then I'm going to recommend that someone put out full size shims for that front shaft holder (or just ignore the placement pins). The next logical step if the spacer works would be to replace the two cast pins with set screws to adjust the for the required depth depending on shim height or maybe just to hold the shims in place. if the front belt is perfect and the center too loose initially after shimming, that's fine, then I'd actually be able to use the center belt tensioner. |
Next question is, will Dave Ehrlich be attending the Reedy Race? I want to but the wife is still out of work, so no travel for me. :cry:
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Originally Posted by JonnySocko
(Post 5600597)
Next question is, will Dave Ehrlich be attending the Reedy Race? I want to but the wife is still out of work, so no travel for me. :cry:
Yes I'll be at the Reedy Race!!! I hope you can make it!! |
i got my E4 back up and running , i will be working on some asphalt set ups next week. i will post them as a soon as i get them ready.
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I have a NIB E4RS for sale if anyone is interested
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Hey guys,
I recently purchased a team magic e4 and currently i am setting up. I was wondering what spur and pinion i should use if i wanted a lot of acceleration but a lower top speed as i race on a track that is technical and has a lot of 180 degree turns (or close to that). I run a 540 can. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Francis |
Originally Posted by silverfrancis
(Post 5620922)
Hey guys,
I recently purchased a team magic e4 and currently i am setting up. I was wondering what spur and pinion i should use if i wanted a lot of acceleration but a lower top speed as i race on a track that is technical and has a lot of 180 degree turns (or close to that). I run a 540 can. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Francis |
Originally Posted by i am cornholio
(Post 5580975)
hey wolf any word on the one piece axles..and the hubs???
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