![]() |
on why the photos you have with towels at the front and back of the e4? you hide something?;)
|
Originally Posted by nocif13
(Post 5786435)
on why the photos you have with towels at the front and back of the e4? you hide something?;)
|
anybody got a good start set up for a JS running VTA....asphalt and/or carpet
i have a one way... just want a good starting point ..im sure ill tweak it a little thanks in advance |
Originally Posted by rkhess
(Post 5787379)
anybody got a good start set up for a JS running VTA....asphalt and/or carpet
i have a one way... just want a good starting point ..im sure ill tweak it a little thanks in advance http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/team...amMagicE4.html best regards olivier |
thank you Olivier...thats perfect:)
|
Originally Posted by nocif13
(Post 5787552)
|
Hello every one I have a problem.
Im running the fist E4 with a 10.5 Brushless. On rough hot mix asphalt And whats happeing is that the left front tyer is getting absolutly hammered. What seems to be happeing is that the Right front is beening lifted up and the car is just leaning on the left. Im having to adust the camber for it to wear evenly. But at this rate the tyers gonna be gone very fast. Does any one have any tips or know what i should do to stop it lifting the right. Ps i am running the solid in the front. No sway bars, Tyers 28s with medium inserts. |
Originally Posted by abcd123
(Post 5792449)
Hello every one I have a problem.
Im running the fist E4 with a 10.5 Brushless. On rough hot mix asphalt And whats happeing is that the left front tyer is getting absolutly hammered. What seems to be happeing is that the Right front is beening lifted up and the car is just leaning on the left. Im having to adust the camber for it to wear evenly. But at this rate the tyers gonna be gone very fast. Does any one have any tips or know what i should do to stop it lifting the right. Ps i am running the solid in the front. No sway bars, Tyers 28s with medium inserts. 28's may be a bit soft as well. Try using a rear sway bar and or stiffer springs/oil in the rear. Check track temperature as well. 32's or even 36 durometer tires might be more suited for your application. If you have to run so soft due to the condition of the surface you are on then dialing it in may be a bit more tricky. Smooth and less coarse surfaces will result in better longevity as well. I remember a race in Modesto CA that you absolutely needed a new set of tires ... EVERY RUN! So don't feel too badly. And good luck. |
1 Attachment(s)
today i have broken my rear Bulkhead :mad:
|
Originally Posted by nocif13
(Post 5794145)
today i have broken my rear Bulkhead :mad:
I highly recommend the aluminum ones. That are tons stiffer, more trustworthy and only 3 grams heavier. |
I hope so as well. Looks like plastic one
Hey guys i need a SETUP for LOW Grip ashpalt racing. Where 24s - 28s tyers are a must with meduim to soft inserts. Fearly small tight tracks. Running 10.5 Brushless. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by abcd123
(Post 5801390)
I hope so as well. Looks like plastic one
Hey guys i need a SETUP for LOW Grip ashpalt racing. Where 24s - 28s tyers are a must with meduim to soft inserts. Fearly small tight tracks. Running 10.5 Brushless. try iy with no sway bars. |
Originally Posted by nocif13
(Post 5794145)
today i have broken my rear Bulkhead :mad:
Originally Posted by John St.Amant
(Post 5794411)
Please tell me thats the plastic one.
I highly recommend the aluminum ones. That are tons stiffer, more trustworthy and only 3 grams heavier. |
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
(Post 5801989)
hard hit?
I'm 99.99% sure that is the plastic bulkhead:) |
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
(Post 5801989)
hard hit?
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:24 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.