The aluminum one way/solid axle does fit in the JS. I have the unit in both of mine as a one way. You'll need the out drives also.

John

thanks again liljohn.....man im gonna owe you a case of beer before its all overwith

:lol: The carbon shock towers work nice too.

The JS is by far the best handling car I've driven for TA. Some day I will figure out how to free it up as much as needed, then look out.

So I guess the solution would be the K-Factory aluminum front sterring block and the rear hub?

K factory seems to be the answer for most if not all the issues with the car .
I love that front carbon upper bumper K2109. ,,, and the alu. mid block.

Sorry john i didnt put all the info. When i was at snowbirds with wolf he and dave were running the new proto type aluminum 0* rear hubs. They also were running the new axles. soi dont know if the k factory hubs solve it, but the ones wolf is making will take the slop out.

No wonder you told me before "for a serious racer it requires a few extra parts. Expensive parts." :D

Im still deciding on what to get for 13.5 brushless racing on low budget, can you more or less put me on one side of Hot Bodies Cyclone S tub chassis v/s E4 JS tub chassis kits ?. Downhere in Chile we have a TM importer but he is 100% on nitro and if i go E4 i will go alone same thing on Cyclone S.

thanks,

Pat

so when exactly are these parts going to be available?? im waiting..are they going to be avail before reedy???

The axles and hubs have been an issue for some time. We have spoken with TM about the materials factor for a year now. To help everyone out we are stepping up to the plate.

The hole in the plastic hubs is not too big when the hubs are new. The issue is that the material "cold flows" This means that as the bearing is banged around the hole gets larger in at least one direction. We have checked many hubs on Optical comparators and CMMs to verify this. The simple solution is to glue the bearings into the bores. CA works the best but if you are doing this a day ahead of time you can also coat the bore with Loctite 242 or shoe goo. You need to put the adhesive in the bore before putting the bearing in or else you risk gluing the bearing into a solid. We have tested this many times and it works very well. It is also a way to salvage a hub that has become sloppy.

The reason for the new axles was not an issue of slop (the shims take care of that) but more importantly width. The intent was twofold. As it comes the nominal width of the E4 is 185mm. Adding shims under the wheels is one way to make the car wider but causes durability issues. (The reason why Barry lost a wheel in practice at IIC was that he had so many shims spacing the wheel out that there was no plastic covering the pin. Once he got up to speed the O ring couldn't retain the pin so the entire assembly came apart). The new axles come in Titanium for strength and 7075 Aluminum for economy and weight reduction (less than2 grams each). But the best part is that the drive hexes come in varying widths from -.25mm (for wide foam wheels at ROAR events) to +.75 (for Trans Am fronts to bring them out closer to 200mm) This will allow you to tune with front and rear track width and really balance the car. The other reason is that really hate "fussing" (not the word I really mean) with the O ring to take the axles apart.

The hubs and caster blocks are also in response to providing something that is not available anywhere else. The rear hubs are available in 0 and 1 degree toe angles. The front caster blocks are available in 3, 6 and 8 degree angles. We also have plans for 4 and 5 degree blocks if there is a demand. One of the great features is that the caster blocks are hard anodized. This gives them a very tough wear resistant pin bore that will make them last much longer than what is now available.

Please be aware that these are completely new designs. They are similar to TM parts only in the areas that require them to fit the existing car. There are also two other factors that make these special to us. First is that they are made in the USA and second the price is aimed at being less than what is available now.

The big question you are all asking is WHEN????? The answer is now...sort of. There have been many delays in these parts that are just beyond our control. Three hours from now I should be doing the final check on the parts at the machine shop and releasing them to the platers. We will get them by Tuesday and ship as soon as they arrive. They will be on the web site by Monday but the photos will be of unplated parts until Wednesday. The titanium parts are not plated.

To set the record straight Dave did not use the prototype parts at the Nationals. I did bring them along to show him and for him to take home for more testing. I did use the 0 degree rear hubs for my rubber car to cope with the tires they speced for the race.

Wolf Hobbies is very pleased to announce that Marcos Jennings has joined our "family" of team drivers. Most of you already know him as a regular contributor on this forum. but for those of you that do not know him he is a truly excellent driver, setup person and without a doubt one of the nicest people in R/C. He works very hard at developing his car but always finds the time to assist anyone that needs help. We are pleased that he has decided to join us and to be our "point man" in the Southeast. Welcome aboard Marcos!!

Thanks for the kind words Wolf:nod: I'll be posting some new set ups by sunday or monday for outdoor rubber asphalt.

Lipo's in the E4
 

Hey guys...

a mate just bought one and it the one where the batteries are loaded in via the bottom.

Our question is.... how and/or what type of lipo can be fitted in. We dont want to get the dremel out just yet.

I have an intellect hard case and it is just physically too big

Any suggestions appreciated

Stangas

Shim the deck 3mm as per the instructions and break out the dremel on the front pulley block protrustion, trim up the top deck between the middle rear screws for the battery leads to exit (I cut out the middle of the top deck plate right back to where the factory hole/s were), and you can neatly fit in a Thunderpower 40C 5000mAh hard case Lipo. You won't go back to anything else once you put in the 15 minutes of effort to fit this fantastic Lipo pack. In the unlikely event that you stuff up the modifications, spares are readily available. I can post photos of my mods if you'd like.

Cheers,
Simon