Alright. I want to say that those were the ones that came on my DE E4, the same ones that enlarger the first time but, maybe not. I will give them a try.

Did you have ballbearing in the c-hubs or where there brass bearings in them?.
I find it weird that you had enlarged holes where there should be a ball bearing.
I have both the Wolf Hobbies hubs and the K-Factory but didn't have any issiues with both of them.

regards Roy

Those are the stock C-hubs but they only included on the original E4 the K-factory ones are black anodized.

Erhmmmmmm the 3 degrees K-factory are silver colored and the 6 degrees K-factory are black anodized.
K-factory made the stock c-hubs for the original E4 i believe
Check pic these c-hubs are 3 degrees and from K-factory

Regards Roy

http://img121.imageshack.us/f/e4fs5.jpg/

The uprights that came on my DE E4 (I am not the original owner so I'm not 100% sure) were black aluminum and were 3 degrees. They did come with ball bearings in them (not bushings) and the right side was enlarged. I had thought it might have been wrecked before I got it but, when the same thing happened with the plastic uprights, it got me thinking.

The plastic c-hubs do tend to wear a bit yeah but the alu c-hubs i have i never got any problems with.
Sold one of my E4FS with the Wolf hobbies 3 degrees c-hubs on them and the guy who is driving it is still happy with them.
No problems with wear or anything.

regards Roy

I had mine for 2 years it is still slap free.

What's is everyone using on their E4 dual or single steering bellcrank?

I am using single because of less parts that can come loose,less slop and direct responce.

regards Roy

Hey, I'm a long time losi r driver that recently decided to try something new so I got a E4 DE edition. It was used and came with no tuning parts (springs, swaybars, etc.) It looks like the rear springs are associated green springs. Anyways, what all should I get for this car for tuning, as far as springs, caster blocks, swaybars... Also, it had no manual, is there roll center adjustment as far as moving the a arms up or down? Thanks for any help. BTW i run on asphault tracks, indoors and out. Any advice on what to order would be great.

You can adjust the roll center, anti-dive, anti-squat by shimming the suspension blocks and camber links. Get the K-factory spring set, I recommend getting the PU belts, and use the rear belt on the front they are thicker, change the middle and side pulleys to the plactics ones it will save you a headache the aluminums ones tend to strip the belt pretty quickly especially if you are running mod.

Since you got the DE E4 you pretty much got all the hop-ups you need. But I recommend replacing the bearing either use metal shield bearing if you wanna go cheap or ceramic bearing. This will free up the car more.

Cool, thanks for your help. I cant wait to raise some eyebrows at the local track...All they run is TOP and Xray.

contact yodog here in the forum you will need his battery tray to fit those big lipo packs without raising the top deck.:nod:

Thanks for the shout Kimo...:nod:

I'll be making more battery trays this week so If anyone wants in, PM me.

$55 shipped in the Continental US.
Outside will adjust for the difference.

For those of you who bought a tray from me, could you please provide an update on how they are working out for you. Any suggestions or feedback is always welcome.


Suggest a part? :tire::tire::tire:

Thanks

1. Top deck for low traction track.
2. Aluminum dual steering bell crank.
3. Lipo chassis with no cut outs I'm finding the RS chassis is inconsistent with un-even flex. Probably that's why the original E4 chassis works better on asphalt the car handling is more predictable.

Are you racing this weekend Rick?

The car handles really well and very easy to drive. I have run pretty much all the top major brand on the market but this car is not sensitive to different track surface. You can pretty much run the same setup with some small changes and your pretty much spot on.