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I have tried different setup with the car on different track surface but I have always gone back to the stock setup with vey little adjustment and the car is dialed. I basically use the same setup and just play with the shock oil and camber changes this all depends on the level of grip that the track has.
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Hello
Here you can find some interesting pictures: http://www.overrc.com/techniques/reg...giclionel.html E4RS 09: TQ at the last Swiss Championship in Lostallo - Stock Category (13.5) |
Hello
Anyone know what these K factory parts are for K2137 and K2138. |
It looks like a brace but don't know if it is for the E4 or not.
Drop K-Factory a mail and you know:nod: cheers Roy
Originally Posted by DKM-Kiwi
(Post 7945963)
Hello
Anyone know what these K factory parts are for K2137 and K2138. |
Originally Posted by DKM-Kiwi
(Post 7945963)
Hello
Anyone know what these K factory parts are for K2137 and K2138. http://rcshopping.com/BIG/K%20Factory/K21/K2137.jpg http://www.rcshopping.com/profra.jsp...2137&proclass= |
State titles vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4urM6Ht1v4 Our E4 has a Lime/yellow flamed TM shell. |
Originally Posted by Jochim_18
(Post 7898514)
This car like a really balance setup just make sure your front and rear seup is very close to make this car handle really good. The stock setup on the original E4 is a very good starting point and just make adjustment from their for different track surface.
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E4 looked great on track
Originally Posted by blis
(Post 7985535)
State titles vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4urM6Ht1v4 Our E4 has a Lime/yellow flamed TM shell. The E4 is underpowered for the tight competition in the mod class, our Losi ESC and 4.5 Motor combo served us well and it's very much a situation that the E4 wants more power and Im not sure it won't struggle. For me it's silly grub screw holding the C hub pins that really lets the default car down. Ive seen some nice gear at wolf's but for now it's a matter of finding more power and seeing what the transmission makes of it. Fortunately we managed to find a front belt tensioner before this event and it saved us from a sure set of belt failures. Ultimately the E4 gobbled up the Losi 4.5 and while its by no means a powerhouse, it's been very reliable. Anyone else run mod? Purple on the front, pink on the rear and stock sway.. had a good event... http://www.youtube.com/therealblis?g.../0/G6QmNXZor2A |
I'm having some issues with the front uprights and was wondering if someone could enlighten me. It seems that the top hole in the front upright keeps enlarging itself. The first set of uprights I had were the DE black aluminum. Next I put on a set of 6 degree plastic uprights. The DE had an enlarged hole for a bearing while the plastic ones did not. Both sets had enlarged holes after only a few runs. This creates a fair amount of slop. I see that Wolf Hobbies selling a silver aluminum set of uprights but those are $60 a set, that's expensive. Any help / suggestions in this matter would be great.
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Just get the stock 3 degree aluminum or the wolf hobbies aluminum C-hub It cost a lot but this will solve your problem and you will never purchase another C-hub they are pretty strong. I do recommend wolf hobbies they are beffier and truer.
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What everyone prefers to use dual or single steering bell crank?
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
(Post 8065393)
Just get the stock 3 degree aluminum or the wolf hobbies aluminum C-hub It cost a lot but this will solve your problem and you will never purchase another C-hub they are pretty strong. I do recommend wolf hobbies they are beffier and truer.
http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-..._3_degree.html |
I would get the wolf hobbies aluminum c-hubs they are cheaper.
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I would get the wolf hobbies aluminum c-hubs they are cheaper.
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Those are i believe the K-factory 3 degrees C-hubs.
You need to use these http://www.wolfhobbies.com/Wolf_Hobb..._Degree_2.html They are almost half the price and with the ballbearings in them last a life time without problems. regards Roy
Originally Posted by phisher
(Post 8065624)
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