I told you rick stick we the stock E4 setup which really work good on any track surface just need a little adjustment to suite the track. With stock setup the car work really well on high traction track.

I'm thinking of going to west coast RC down in L.A next week let me know if you want to go?

hi,

how much will it cost if you send it to Europe?

here's some pics of the prototype parts.

I will have to check into it but I would imagine it won't be more than shipping to Australia.
About $10 USD

+1 count me in to.still have my original e4. love this car.:D

Magic lot for sale........

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ighlight=magic

E4JS - setup, hop ups etc
 

I just wanted to post about the E4JS as it doesn't get many mentions and after a few meetings, I've got it going really well.

My setup is for medium grip carpet on Sorex 28JB rubber tyres in 17.5 boosted Stock class..
Additive: Jack the Gripper, full rear coverage, almost full front coverage bar a rim on the outside, about 15-20mins before.
Ride height f/r: 5mm
Downstops f/r: 3
Shock position f: outermost hole on tower
Shock position r: innermost but one on tower
Antiroll bar on front only, the stock one from the RS
Shock oil: 40wt allround
Springs: Stock
Camber & Toe: not checked lately but looks 1 degree
Diff f/r (didn't get on with the spool, an acquired taste)
Steering on transmitter: full front lock, no D/R reduction (I find makes for an agile car)

Was comparable in pace to Mi4s and XRays, albeit, like me, in the hands of relatively inexperienced drivers.

Handling was agile, lots of sidebite, so much so there was some bodyshell rubbing on the carpet. Might put the stock rollbar in the rear and a heavier one up front.
Stiffer springs also a good idea - I have some Yokomo and Schumacher ones to try.

If I was going to upgrade the car, I'd look at steering assemblies with less flex/slop first.
Durability is excellent, has shrugged off a few heavy impacts, though a freak accident (Mi4 embedded in the side of the car) slightly damaged a side pulley (still works) and flipped the belt over.

If anyone is thinking of doing a chassis for the E4 series, one that uses the JS front and rear sub-chassis would be worth consideration.

Nice to see that there are other fans of the JS.

I found this to be a problem as well and I did all I could to stiffen the front end with alum. upgrades but it seemed like no matter what I did the slop comes mainly from the servo saver or the ball cups that gets worn quite easily.

The idea of the front and rear sub chassis is nice but it really didn't work so well. The problem was that the sub chassis pieces were made of the same ABS plastic as the main chassis and when the sub chassis breaks on occaision, it sometimes break the tabs on the main chassis where the sub chassis attaches to. In this case, I'd rather have a one piece durable and solid graphite slab as a chassis like the FS and RS.

The irony about the JS is that after upgrading the crap out of that chassis with all the alum. upgrades, I found that it ran better when it was completely stock with all the plastic pieces.:lol: Go figure.:rolleyes: However, I think that the beauty of the JS is that it was a very forgiving car with lots of flex and to try and stiffen it with alum. upgrades doesn't work. The only way to improve on a JS is to just upgrade to an FS or RS.

There are the E4D alloy chassis parts too, but probably cheaper to get a one-piece made, as you say. Without a battery hatch, it should be quite stiff with equalised flex, and it's already narrow.

If a car requires major modification out of the box, it's probably not a good car! I've got a RS waiting in the box, just have to get around to transplanting electrics. The JS will for sure get outdoor duties, that RS chassis is too pretty to scratch up on asphalt!

No thats not my point. The JS is a good car for what it is. However to try to improve on it with upgrades only makes it worse, not better.

If you have an RS, run that. I think theres a guy named Rommel here on the forum that sells pre-cut chassis savers specific for the E4 that will prevent it from being scratched up.

New chassis plate
 

Ok guys, here is the preliminary model for the suggested chassis plate.
This should be compatible with all Carbon versions of the E4 and will likely include a redesigned top plate to go with it.
This model is based on 2.5mm carbon plate. When I get around to prototyping it, I will start with 2mm stock to verify if the new design will be stiff enough at that thickness. Besides, it's what I have on hand.:lol:
In case you were wondering, the battery may be removed by pulling off the side belt and middle brace. I may design a new middle brace to make installing and removing the battery easier but I suppose I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. In these days of lipo batteries I find it rare that I will remove my pack. I just charge and go. Either way, it cant be worse than taping packs in every heat when running NiMh.

^^^^^^^^^^^

Looking forward to it. This will probably be the last upgrade I will need for the JS.:lol::lol: After your chassis upgrade there will be hardly anything JS about my E4.

Well I went and did it....I'm a E4 owner. Be prepared for lots of dumb questions. :D
I've been thinking about the E4 for quite awhile since I owned a JS for a few days and loved the layout. I simply needed to thin down and the JS needed more of an investment than I could afford. Funny, now I'm down to basically 1 race chassis so I have no choice but to learn and spend what I have to to make it work. Gee, poor pitiful me.:D I'll be racing it in VTA on unprepared(no compound) asphalt parking lot on a 80x45, technical track. Can anybody lead me to a decent setup ?? I'm actually reading through all 200+ pages of this thread but it's gonna take awhile.
Hey YR4Dude, thanks for answering my inquiry about the Kawada. I ended up getting an offer to buy it from a guy in Canada. He bought all my Kawada stuff.

I've tried a bunch of different setups online but keep landing back on the following setup sheet as a starting spot.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/team...ne20080224.htm

Car Tuning Help :

Shocks (My findings / Preference)
Tried 30wt 3 hole car is too bouncy (reactive).
Like 40wt 3 hole as car becomes predictable in bumpy conditions.
If you increase front to 45wt or 50wt 3hole it reduces front steering.

To remove front steering from the car I will change the following items.
- Front spring from 17.5lbs to 19.5lbs
- Increase the front sway bar from 1.2 to 1.5
- Increase front track width (190mm) to prevent traction rolling.
- Reduce front droop to 2.5 or 1.5mm

For more rear grip keep adding 1mm shims upto 4mm to the inside rear bulkhead.

For extreamly loose surfaces (Start With Kit Setup Sheet - Try Following Ideas)
- Remove center brace (additional flex).
- Remove the rear swaybar
- Softer Springs all around 12.5lbs or 15lbs (extream case: use kit silver springs).
- Middle hole front and rear on bulkhead with no shims.
- 3mm droop all around.
- Inside shock position hole 1 all around.
- extream case : remove front swaybar - remove 2 of front top deck bulkhead screws

New chassis plate
 

Looking forward to hearing your on track report of the new plate. My hope is that it will make the car more consistent on carpet without needing to switch to the thick 3mm foam chassis.