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Old 02-26-2012, 04:25 AM
  #2716  
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Good advice Bill, I think the LE chassis is in the near future. I'm going to switch up a couple things and if I don't get the results, then the new chassis will be my next move!...thanks
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hyperdrive1
I started to dump my CRC Gen x pro for another car, but CRC's did so well at the birds...maybe I'll work at it a little more. We have a great weekly WGT class at the local track. An A and B and sometimes a C class.

Here's my problem. This is a smooth carpet track and I can turn in fine, but push coming out of turns. I am running 1/12 kingpins with .55 springs, -5 camber works ok and if I go to a full -1 degree...pushes more. I run 1mm of rear droop. We have to run spec tires (BSR purple) saucing a 1/3 to 1/2 of the front tire gives me more grip than if I were to sauce 3/4. Running front axle in trailing position....tried trailing and neutral, not much difference.

I don't think it would take much to get it better, I just haven't hit on what it takes. Just looking for what some guy's are running to help push off.
Since you have such a hard front spring your rear end is making your car push. Stiffen the rear to get more front steer. Go with 45 or 50mm front spring. 10 degree casters blocks with all the shims back and that will give you on power steering. If running an encore shock go with a red spring and 30wt... And make sure you have very little rebound. Try 2mm droop with white rear springs. Do not over preload them.. Once they touch the pod go 1/2 turn extra. And its very important make sure your football is smooth like butter! Depending on your track try 30k side tube lube. At my track with lower traction we use 10k and it helps for all the left right transitions. We also run 2.5 for droop

Ps you have way too much camber... Once you loosen up that front end change your camber to -1.5
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by joeymdz
Ps you have way too much camber... Once you loosen up that front end change your camber to -1.5
I was thinking he meant -0.5 camber.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:39 PM
  #2719  
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Originally Posted by Still Bill
I was thinking he meant -0.5 camber.
Well darn it... That messes up everything!!!! Lol
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:18 AM
  #2720  
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Thanks Joey, that is some good advice. I will be trying numerous things, but I am sure at some point I will get it worked out to my liking....with the setup I have it worked better at a half a degree negative camber than it did at negative one degree? and the more I sauced the width of the tire the worse it got....both those things seem a little back wards to me, but with the changes I will be making....we'll see.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:18 PM
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changed my front mount servo back to its stock position. it seems to roll better on power with tight corners
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:59 PM
  #2722  
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updated my blog
http://rcgtpancars.blogspot.com/

Tempted to try running my cell at the rear of the car, still inline but as far back as it will go. What sort of effect would that have it on the handing?
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by chris_blakey
updated my blog
http://rcgtpancars.blogspot.com/

Tempted to try running my cell at the rear of the car, still inline but as far back as it will go. What sort of effect would that have it on the handing?

more weight in the back= less steering
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:34 PM
  #2724  
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Will the expansion kit fit a 10r5?

235mm Expansion Kit for the Gen-X 10
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:17 PM
  #2725  
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im sorry, joe. im going to have to disagree with you. the more weight you get closer to the pivot ball, but in front of the pivot ball, you will gain steering.

in the 1/12 cars, battery back is more aggressive than battery forward.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by al dente
im sorry, joe. im going to have to disagree with you. the more weight you get closer to the pivot ball, but in front of the pivot ball, you will gain steering.

in the 1/12 cars, battery back is more aggressive than battery forward.

make me believe!!!!


how can you get the battery behind the pivot ball? (were talking about the football correct?) educate the Oregonian please... Ehrlich doesn't help much
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:38 PM
  #2727  
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nimh:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...10-Pan-Car-Kit

lipo:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...10-Pan-Car-Kit
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:06 PM
  #2728  
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Originally Posted by joeymdz
changed my front mount servo back to its stock position. it seems to roll better on power with tight corners
Interesting. I asked Dumper about this just last week. Both of us are sticking with the reversed servo setup.

Find that the flat servo is better for faster sweeping corners; so, it depends on the track layout.

Bill
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:16 PM
  #2729  
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Pro came with both nimh and lipo trays when lipos were just becoming the new standard. Is still a good choice for 2S lipo battery and/or 235mm racing configurations.

LE is best suited to 1S lipo battery configurations; but, 2S or 235mm are still doable.

Bill
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:33 PM
  #2730  
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Originally Posted by Still Bill
Interesting. I asked Dumper about this just last week. Both of us are sticking with the reversed servo setup.

Find that the flat servo is better for faster sweeping corners; so, it depends on the track layout.

Bill
The main track i race at is a smaller, tight lanes, and medium traction. The car just reacts alot better with it at stock location.

At time zone.. Its a huge track and i haven't tested both setups but since their track is fast, big, and high grip.. Front mount servo felt really good there.
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