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-   -   Tamiya mini cooper (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/20068-tamiya-mini-cooper.html)

mangoman 11-29-2010 03:56 AM

Levelling the field sounds like what happened when me moved to the 3000kv hobbywing.

Only it is faster than a black can.

But personally i prefer the extra speed even if it does wear the tyres more. Having a mini closer to the limit accentuates the differences between racing minis and touring cars.

rcnutbag 11-29-2010 03:23 PM


Originally Posted by caltek1 (Post 8272347)
but a small piece of nitro fuel line works a treat in each diff cup.

Cal,

I do understand what you're describing (and it's a good idea) but I think it may be worth being specific for the newbies that read these forums trying to glean all the 'speed secrets' without having to PM you.

With the 'o'rings, they're a set dimension, as is half the urethane foam. If someone were to fabricate their own outdrive retainers and they were too long, they'll not only lose speed because you are binding up the uni's, but perhaps put unnecessary wear on the whole outer drive assembly. I'm sure there are people reading this that aren't even aware why they are in the car in the first place!

Lastly, I meant to congratulate you on your podium on the weekend. Well done.

Wylie27 11-29-2010 04:12 PM


Originally Posted by rcnutbag (Post 8274804)
Cal,

I do understand what you're describing (and it's a good idea) but I think it may be worth being specific for the newbies that read these forums trying to glean all the 'speed secrets' without having to PM you.

With the 'o'rings, they're a set dimension, as is half the urethane foam. If someone were to fabricate their own outdrive retainers and they were too long, they'll not only lose speed because you are binding up the uni's, but perhaps put unnecessary wear on the whole outer drive assembly. I'm sure there are people reading this that aren't even aware why they are in the car in the first place!

Lastly, I meant to congratulate you on your podium on the weekend. Well done.

Cal,

a pic would be nice? :) it took me ages to work out what you meant :)

superspeed 11-29-2010 06:11 PM

is there a sway bar kit for m05 yet? my local club is not going to allow m06 running with m05, bummer.

rcnutbag 11-29-2010 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by superspeed (Post 8275677)
is there a sway bar kit for m05 yet? my local club is not going to allow m06 running with m05, bummer.

Yes. Click here

mangoman 11-29-2010 08:44 PM


Originally Posted by Wylie27 (Post 8275012)
Cal,

a pic would be nice? :) it took me ages to work out what you meant :)

You just want a picture of the car so you can send it to adrian newey to get feedback on why cal is so fast :eek:

caltek1 11-30-2010 04:20 AM

I am not in a position to take pictures at the moment, however the nitro fuel tube I use is cut to length after I measure the distance from the end of the universal ball end to the diff cup that fits into the TAO3 ball diff.

I have found that the Tamiya universals are a different length to the 3Racing universals,( also dependant on if they are version 1, 2 or 3), so the length varies. Therefore I can not give a designated length of fuel tubing.

I am not home now, so when I get home I will look at what I have fitted to my car. I do know that Tamiya universals are fitted to my MO5L.

I will also take stock of what is fitted to my mini and post. However others should be asking others whose mini's were faster than mine what setups they are using. I do know that I like how my car handles and have a couple of things I want to test in the future.

My car is nothing special and I do know pictures of the car are in this thread from previous posts from last year.

BTW,

I have also slowed my transmitter steering exponenial to make it easier to drive my mini. With mini you need to be smoother with the steering than with a TC.

Regards,

Calvin.

Wylie27 11-30-2010 06:22 PM


Originally Posted by mangoman (Post 8276575)
You just want a picture of the car so you can send it to adrian newey to get feedback on why cal is so fast :eek:

I can just wait to a Friday night and take pictures of it if i wanted to do that!! :)

Orrr i just steal Carl's Mini..

caltek1 11-30-2010 11:09 PM

Jason,

I use a different mini when I race at Windsor. My favourite mini MO5L does not go to Windsor, stays at home.:sneaky:

My Windsor car has a totally different setup and wheelbase. I have some other setup ideas I want to try soon on this car.

Later,

Calvin.

bjspinner 11-30-2010 11:51 PM

Hi Calvin

Want some things to try?

Play with the bump steer on the steering knuckles.

Iwas running alot of weight in my car 46 grams in the bumper plus the counter weight of about 50 grams.

Front shocks longer than the rear by about 1mm.

White rears and yellow fronts.

25w front 30w rear Losi oil 3 hole pistons.

Roll bars heavy on the rear and the light one on the front.

Gear diff with putty inside.

Nice to meet you at the masters.

Bruce.

poeee 12-01-2010 02:41 AM

Ok so like most people who have real (classic) Mini's, I have an M03.

I bought mine second hand years ago. First experience with 'real' RC. It hasn't been a good one so far. I have never been able to get the electrics to play right. These days not at all.

So I wanna start again. Maybe even have a go at racing if I do it right (so I wanna keep within the rules).

The rc-mini site is great. I just have a few questions.

What bearings should I get, and where should I get them? I want to change the wheel hub bearings, too.

What should I buy if I were to pull everything down and build it up from scratch again (having never done so myself)? Anything in the gearbox for eg.

I want to buy a bang for buck radio setup (wheel type). I think I should scrap what I have.

What ESC?

Any other tips?

Please help me get back on track!

Butler205 12-01-2010 02:56 AM

Hi,

I think the rc-mini site covers bearings in the build article. I don't think the type makes much difference, but maybe someone who has tried a few different types can answer. I think a common feeling is that you use metal shielded ones internally and rubber shielded ones externally. Metal is faster, rubber is better at keeping out the dirt.

For the gearbox fit a steel pinion, either the tamiya fluorine one or a robinsion racing one. And also for racing the TA03 ball diff works well. I never noticed it for bashing around, but on a track against gear diffed minis the drive is noticeably improved. We have banned it for next year. :mad:

I found for performance get the ride height down, some toe out and a ball diff. But hey, the rc-mini site build up pretty much says the same.

Thanks

woodys3b 12-01-2010 03:23 AM


Originally Posted by bjspinner (Post 8281942)

Gear diff with putty inside.

Bruce.

Putty?

You know you can't get away with that! We need more info. What kind of putty and how much?

I am very much in agreement with the rest of your set up tips. Very good info. Thanks:)

Butler205 12-01-2010 03:31 AM

I guess it doesn't matter what putty, all its doing it locking the diff.

Blue Tac, hot melt glue. I am sure other would do. Unless its some thick grease type putty.

sidecarphil1 12-01-2010 03:59 AM


Originally Posted by Butler205 (Post 8282234)
I guess it doesn't matter what putty, all its doing it locking the diff.

Blue Tac, hot melt glue. I am sure other would do. Unless its some thick grease type putty.

the guys at my track are filling them with shoego sort of stuff

i have a 3Racing spool and this is nice


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