tudor_47

I think i read somewhere that you use 13T sensorless brushless in australia in the mini races...

wher can I get hold of such an motor? They are not in stock at rcmart.

rcnutbag

They are available at rcmart, click here. It's the Yeah Racing model, which is exactly the same as the hobbywing system, just a different appearance.

rcnutbag

Recently, whilst scouring the internet for info on balancing racing vehicles, I came across this article. It explains the importance of a good setup and the outcomes if a car doesn't have it.

Read through, it makes a lot of sense, and I think explains a lot of what our cars do (well, before balancing that is...!).

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

We also can use the venom combo, which is a rebadged hobbywing system, but has a green option.

Granpa

Sorry, equated spring preloading with rebound on the shocks. Been around Minis too long and haven't built a set of TC TRF shocks for a Mini in years with out using limiters or spacers. Since we're on that subject, I no longer measure the overall length of the shocks or worry much about how many spacers or what kind of spacers are used. The dimension that's critical is the bottom of the shock body to the top of the short coupler when the shock is fully extended. This should be 6.5-7mm. Of course this should be equal from side to side on the car, but can be used to fine tune your set up by running unequal lengths or the same lengths. Also it's a more precise measurement.

I guess what you are saying about the springs getting hung up could happen, but some of the guys posting steering troubles have been around for awhile. Only a real newbie would put the TC shocks on full length.

tudor_47

Yes, well I was looking for a motor only... thanks!

mangoman: "We also can use the venom combo " Thanks!



On my look for the venom motor i found the aluminuium rear lower arms..
http://www.ultimatetoys.com.au/venom...g-p-16151.html

are they good? do they have mounting holes for stabilizer?

I have recently broken my rear lower arms in a rollover bounce sort of crash and I have new plastic arms on route but alu might be a way to go?

1101

ebay (seriously)
hobbyking had them for $29, you can get them to email when back in stock

woodys3b

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for this info. I have been struggling to find the right amount of droop for too long. However, I can only use it if I have the same shocks as you. Could you give us a measurement from top shock mount center to bottom shock mount center so we can adopt this to any shock. I'm using CVA super mini shocks.

Thanks

Granpa

With the shocks extended, the measurement was 58.5mm on both the M03 & 05. Measured from the center of each shock ball. Rediscovered why I don't use this measurement any more. It's very aboutish, if you know what I mean.

I tend to run a "little" more droop than a lot of people do and my set up on the 03 is very soft. I like the 03 to roll or heel over in the corners cause it seems to carry more corner speed that way. The 05 is still a work in progress, but the super soft set ups make the car a little inconsistent. I do like the 05 a little stiffer. This is for the Tamiya track and obviously may be different where you race.

woodys3b

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Granpa. I appreciate you taking the time to measure.

Julius

I noticed your hint on the TA03 diff. I did feel with the shorter spline section the outdrives would be more prone to fall out or dislodge...

I guess the o-rings in the outdrive and wheelaxle is parmount to keep the outdrive in. Any tips on the TA03 diff setup outdrive wise?

Thanks

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Making sure the o rings are there is all we do, thats really all you need.

Yes a lot of people do have issues stripping the splines. Thats usually because the outdrives are slipping out and/or they keep hitting things!

Stay away from the walls is the best tip of all

PizzaDude

That's a tip Julius can't use .
He doesn't hit anything but perfect laps. Surely no walls....

MICHAEL BROWN

iTrader: (8)

Revisiting the spool discussion a page back, the problems with torque steer are on a treated indoor concrete (textured) track. Pretty much the highest traction you will experience in Australia (short of racing on carpet).

Take the spool out, replace with any other kind of diff and the car is fine.
The spool drive is awesome, but a bit too hard to live with, unless you race on an outdoor track.( + they are hard on cvd)

I'm over ball diffs too, gear diff all the way

Julius

So i assume you mean using o rings in the outdrives only or do you add one in the wheelaxle? Any different when using universals?

I do my best to stay away from the walls... But sometimes the silvercan power just is too much