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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 10-28-2010, 01:59 PM
  #13366  
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I think i read somewhere that you use 13T sensorless brushless in australia in the mini races...

wher can I get hold of such an motor? They are not in stock at rcmart.
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:57 PM
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They are available at rcmart, click here. It's the Yeah Racing model, which is exactly the same as the hobbywing system, just a different appearance.
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Old 10-28-2010, 03:47 PM
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Default Minis and wedges...

Recently, whilst scouring the internet for info on balancing racing vehicles, I came across this article. It explains the importance of a good setup and the outcomes if a car doesn't have it.

Read through, it makes a lot of sense, and I think explains a lot of what our cars do (well, before balancing that is...!).
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:54 PM
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We also can use the venom combo, which is a rebadged hobbywing system, but has a green option.
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bjspinner
Granpa I made no reference to rebound in the shocks.

It is more about side to side weight transfer.

The point I was talking about was the shock length, and the effect of to much droop in the car comparative to the length of the springs.

The MO5 Pro kit has you install 6mm spacers in the shocks internaly.

As you go around the corner the inside of the car lifts and the spring becomes loose on the shock body. When the car settles back to straight the spring catches on the spring collar or the perch and the car effectivly becomes tweaked for a moment.
Sorry, equated spring preloading with rebound on the shocks. Been around Minis too long and haven't built a set of TC TRF shocks for a Mini in years with out using limiters or spacers. Since we're on that subject, I no longer measure the overall length of the shocks or worry much about how many spacers or what kind of spacers are used. The dimension that's critical is the bottom of the shock body to the top of the short coupler when the shock is fully extended. This should be 6.5-7mm. Of course this should be equal from side to side on the car, but can be used to fine tune your set up by running unequal lengths or the same lengths. Also it's a more precise measurement.

I guess what you are saying about the springs getting hung up could happen, but some of the guys posting steering troubles have been around for awhile. Only a real newbie would put the TC shocks on full length.
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rcnutbag
They are available at rcmart, click here. It's the Yeah Racing model, which is exactly the same as the hobbywing system, just a different appearance.
Yes, well I was looking for a motor only... thanks!

mangoman: "We also can use the venom combo " Thanks!



On my look for the venom motor i found the aluminuium rear lower arms..
http://www.ultimatetoys.com.au/venom...g-p-16151.html

are they good? do they have mounting holes for stabilizer?

I have recently broken my rear lower arms in a rollover bounce sort of crash and I have new plastic arms on route but alu might be a way to go?

Last edited by tudor_47; 10-28-2010 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:05 AM
  #13372  
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Originally Posted by tudor_47
I think i read somewhere that you use 13T sensorless brushless in australia in the mini races...

wher can I get hold of such an motor? They are not in stock at rcmart.
ebay (seriously)
hobbyking had them for $29, you can get them to email when back in stock
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
This should be 6.5-7mm.
Thanks for this info. I have been struggling to find the right amount of droop for too long. However, I can only use it if I have the same shocks as you. Could you give us a measurement from top shock mount center to bottom shock mount center so we can adopt this to any shock. I'm using CVA super mini shocks.

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
Thanks for this info. I have been struggling to find the right amount of droop for too long. However, I can only use it if I have the same shocks as you. Could you give us a measurement from top shock mount center to bottom shock mount center so we can adopt this to any shock. I'm using CVA super mini shocks.

Thanks
With the shocks extended, the measurement was 58.5mm on both the M03 & 05. Measured from the center of each shock ball. Rediscovered why I don't use this measurement any more. It's very aboutish, if you know what I mean.

I tend to run a "little" more droop than a lot of people do and my set up on the 03 is very soft. I like the 03 to roll or heel over in the corners cause it seems to carry more corner speed that way. The 05 is still a work in progress, but the super soft set ups make the car a little inconsistent. I do like the 05 a little stiffer. This is for the Tamiya track and obviously may be different where you race.

Last edited by Granpa; 10-29-2010 at 09:01 AM. Reason: Add
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
With the shocks extended, the measurement was 58.5mm on both the M03 & 05. Measured from the center of each shock ball. Rediscovered why I don't use this measurement any more. It's very aboutish, if you know what I mean.

I tend to run a "little" more droop than a lot of people do and my set up on the 03 is very soft. I like the 03 to roll or heel over in the corners cause it seems to carry more corner speed that way. The 05 is still a work in progress, but the super soft set ups make the car a little inconsistent. I do like the 05 a little stiffer. This is for the Tamiya track and obviously may be different where you race.
Thanks Granpa. I appreciate you taking the time to measure.
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:32 AM
  #13376  
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Originally Posted by tony gray
It can also be caused by a binding axle (either side), outdrive not seated properly in the splines (with an 03 ball diff fitted) and about 50 other reasons as well.
I noticed your hint on the TA03 diff. I did feel with the shorter spline section the outdrives would be more prone to fall out or dislodge...

I guess the o-rings in the outdrive and wheelaxle is parmount to keep the outdrive in. Any tips on the TA03 diff setup outdrive wise?

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:37 PM
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Making sure the o rings are there is all we do, thats really all you need.

Yes a lot of people do have issues stripping the splines. Thats usually because the outdrives are slipping out and/or they keep hitting things!

Stay away from the walls is the best tip of all
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Old 10-30-2010, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by tony gray
Stay away from the walls is the best tip of all
That's a tip Julius can't use .
He doesn't hit anything but perfect laps. Surely no walls....
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Old 10-30-2010, 04:08 AM
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Revisiting the spool discussion a page back, the problems with torque steer are on a treated indoor concrete (textured) track. Pretty much the highest traction you will experience in Australia (short of racing on carpet).

Take the spool out, replace with any other kind of diff and the car is fine.
The spool drive is awesome, but a bit too hard to live with, unless you race on an outdoor track.( + they are hard on cvd)

I'm over ball diffs too, gear diff all the way
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Old 10-30-2010, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tony gray
Making sure the o rings are there is all we do, thats really all you need.

Yes a lot of people do have issues stripping the splines. Thats usually because the outdrives are slipping out and/or they keep hitting things!

Stay away from the walls is the best tip of all
So i assume you mean using o rings in the outdrives only or do you add one in the wheelaxle? Any different when using universals?

I do my best to stay away from the walls... But sometimes the silvercan power just is too much
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