TenzoR

iTrader: (8)

The only suggestion is to use the TRF416 Diff Nut and Screw (Item#51341) as the plastic nut holder for the diff is quite weak.

Waco

Hi Bodymot, I have recently raced in the Christchurch area where minis are very well supported (sadly not as well up in the midlands!). They run a silver cans only class (although some clubs allow other cans in modified) which we tend to compete in when we go down there on holiday... Yes, our Minis are effectively holiday rides!

We both race M03 type Rs and although I have spent considerable time, money & effort with high torque, short stack, servo & servo saver, 3Racing ball diff, Sweep tyres 25 deg. front & rear (on both cars), quick release battery mounts to allow the longer LiPos (when spaced) to try & realise that extra .2 volt with the added lighter weight advantage, anti roll bars front & rear & whilst I accept that there are some significant hop ups on the 'R' chassis, my son was all over me with his geared (certainly noisier!) diff. His car had an older & 'broken in' -quicker- motor, but I have driven both cars indoor and out & there is little to distinguish between them & his was a lot cheaper & certainly less effort to get to that stage. I truly think that the only reason I beat him was that I drove a little better, but he's 14 & going to improve (& I won't!)

So, after the rather extended life story & if you've not slit your wrists by now, I think that based on my personal experience & having read previous posts, it's a close run thing & is probably left to personal preference (I think I would go with a geared diff now...)

(Probably didn't help 1 iota!)

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

The achilles heel with the MO5 ball diff are:

The aluminium outdrives wear very quickly even with the blades, when these are done up tight. Need to change regularly. May only last 1/2 days racing. (This is achieved by using a 3mm screw and the TRF 416 nut which is rethreaded for this, also require a larger thrust bearing).

The diff nut, thrust bearing and nut are weak and only allow minium tightening of the diff. It is very easy to strip.

If you want a bullet proof MO5 diff you need to consider using the steel rally outdrives which require no blades attached to the end of the universals and doing the above screw/nut/thrust bearing mod. You will also need to modify the 416 nut to fit the thinner diff outdrive channel.

The easiest solution is to use the TAO3 ball diff and make sure that you place AW grease on the splines and also ensure that you use either two "O" rings in each diff cup or a small length of nitro fuel line. Make sure that when the front of the car is compressed that the universals do not bind on the fuel line or two "O"rings. Otherwise you will have some issues.

The other option is to use the gear diff and fit double washers each side to slow the action or find a slower acting grease. I have seen a "O" ring fitted in place of the washer but it involves more modification of the gear diff housing. The problem with adding more to the gear diff is that they can be notchy because of the pressure applied when the housing is tightened.

Next month 3Racing are releasing there new FF racer which will be fitted with a oil gear diff. This will only fit the MO5 I believe. Will have to wait and see.

We have found now that we are using the HW 13T BL systems that we wear through diffs and outdrives quicker than in the past. The main reason for this is because we tighten our diffs so we can get maximum drive out of the corners. A loose diff doesn't cut it any more. We have also found that most tend to drive there mini, similar to a mod, due to the extra torque when exiting corners.

Good luck with your diff solutions.

Regards,

Calvin.

TenzoR

iTrader: (8)

This is what the top local guy in our track use for his mini gear diff, built as par instruction, use the Yeah Racing 300000WT diff grease and apply some shoe goo on the gear diff cover to ensure the grease doesn't spill out. This gives a consistent tight diff action.

Butler205

I use a TA03 diff built tight with AW grease throughout. I have not touched it in over a year. It gives noticeable advantage over my brothers gear diff. Not so much out of the corners, but more in long corners that your holding close to full power. Any correction in line and his car spins the power away, where mine keeps going. We use silver cans on concrete track.

I am sure you can get a similar result with a gear diff and thick grease or packing the bevel gears tight together, but am sure it would need a lot more maintenance. I would only do that if ball diffs were specifically banned.

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

There are industrial sticky grease that with a light coat will turn your gear diff to almost a spool. No need to pack, just a light coat. Not sold at stores, used in industrial manufacturing plants.

Firefox

iTrader: (2)

I know this is old stuff, but I am trying to put together a EZ-Run setup.

Is this the motor you all are using ?

http://www.hobbycity.com/UNITEDHOBBI...idProduct=7190

And is this the ESC ?

http://www.hobbycity.com/UNITEDHOBBI...idProduct=7186

thanks

Butler205

Yep.

Look on the rc-mini.net site unders reviews - Hobbywing and paragraph 7.

I have tested the 4300kV and its overkill for the m chassis. 3000kV is about right.

TenzoR

iTrader: (8)

the optional harden outdrives for the TA03 Ball diff, how long do they last? Should have some in spares?

mariob62

iTrader: (2)

Yes and yes.

RossoTorro

iTrader: (1)

Or this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Car-Ezrun-13T...item3f03d373c7

Butler205

I have just fitted some with the rebuildable universals and done about 2 hours of track time. I'll check the wear, if any, and update the thread later.

Granpa

You can take one of your old worn out outdrives and open up the slots with a Dremel and a cut off wheel or use a mill so that you can fit a blade over the pins on the universal or cvd. We've been doing that for awhile out here.

I've been using the same outdrives and universals for a year now with no wear on the outdrives and the same set of universals.That's over 250-300 batteries. Universals have some wear now, but the outdrives are still perfect. The outdrives were a hardened set that were slated for the trash can

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Bob,

Thats a cheaper alternate to buying new hardened outdrives. I have gone back to the TAO3 ball diff, until I can experiment with the new 3Racing FF gear oil diff, due end of this month.

Calvin.

Waco

I have to say that the options you're offering are brilliant... Although I just 'dabble' and as I use a very mild silver can, that would explain the lack of wear on the 3Racing diff. The only valid point I may offer is that I use dry lube- the stuff used on mountain bikes and such (applied to the outdrives/ dogbone heads) to avoid picking up dust and grit making a grinding paste and that also works very well... I will be applying it to the exposed gears on the Xevo for that very reason