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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 05-18-2010, 08:55 PM
  #12346  
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Sidecar, in my experience with breaking in, I got the best result from running the motor endbell submerged in a kero/water mix. Some may say not the safest, OK, but it did make a difference. I did it outside in a normal mug type container. 2 D cells (so 3 volts) and just let it run down. I think you will find that the more an engines brushes are worn (from new), the more it slows, as the brushes have more contact with the armature as they wrap around it. So simply put, when an engine is new, you'll get high revs, but low electrical contact (torque), and as it wears, you'll get to a stage where the rev's are lower but the torque is strong. There is a sweet spot there, and I feel its not to run it in TOO much. Remember, mini's have fixed gearing which is below the capabilities of most motors. You'll spin wheels regardless. You want top speed.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rcnutbag
Sidecar, in my experience with breaking in, I got the best result from running the motor endbell submerged in a kero/water mix. Some may say not the safest, OK, but it did make a difference. I did it outside in a normal mug type container. 2 D cells (so 3 volts) and just let it run down. I think you will find that the more an engines brushes are worn (from new), the more it slows, as the brushes have more contact with the armature as they wrap around it. So simply put, when an engine is new, you'll get high revs, but low electrical contact (torque), and as it wears, you'll get to a stage where the rev's are lower but the torque is strong. There is a sweet spot there, and I feel its not to run it in TOO much. Remember, mini's have fixed gearing which is below the capabilities of most motors. You'll spin wheels regardless. You want top speed.
Well i am the quickest at our club with my 40hrs motors , to the point where the rest of the guys are doing it too

I use the 3Racing speed gears so i need the torque too not the revs
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:51 PM
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Don't get me wrong, there's absolutely no doubt there's a huge benefit in dipping, I was just saying (I believe & from my own experience) there's a point where the revs start dropping off as the brushes wrap around the commutator.

....and we can't use those gears!!

...and I was actually responding to RockinRo, apologies!

Last edited by rcnutbag; 05-19-2010 at 12:13 AM.
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:09 AM
  #12349  
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Anyone tried the Tamiya type B slicks yet? Are they any good?
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:42 AM
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The 2010 Aussie Mini Nationals.

All the stories, all the pictures, right HERE on rc-mini.net now.
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:56 AM
  #12351  
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Originally Posted by Timbulb
the kit is a little different in the TT01s. The two outer gears have a different input shaft design.
I thought they were the same flat tongued gears? Only difference was the diff joints for TT01 have a shaft/pin going through the three-pronged shaft just like the old splined outdrives.

The m05 Diff joints have no shafts/pins.
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tony gray


The 2010 Aussie Mini Nationals.

All the stories, all the pictures, right HERE on rc-mini.net now.
Wow!
That mini flipped after hitting a leaf on the track?

Great shot.
Looks like the same mini got the center spot on the podium too.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:13 AM
  #12353  
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sidecarphil1 and rcnutbag, thanks for your responses n help...really appreciate it.

1 more question (for now...), we're pretty limited here with what the LHS stocks, but going through their servo stock I found the Hitec 635HB to be cheap and good on speed and power...what do you guys think?
Remember limited stock at LHS, if I don't buy this one I'll have to order online and wait 10days.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RockinRo
sidecarphil1 and rcnutbag, thanks for your responses n help...really appreciate it.

1 more question (for now...), we're pretty limited here with what the LHS stocks, but going through their servo stock I found the Hitec 635HB to be cheap and good on speed and power...what do you guys think?
Remember limited stock at LHS, if I don't buy this one I'll have to order online and wait 10days.

Thanks again.
i wouldn't worrie about servo speeds for a mini LOL

a mid range servo is ok , i ran a cheap bluebird servo for 2 years till i found a 2nd hand Savox fast servo then i turned the Expo down to 50% on my transmitter
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:38 AM
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OK great...would love to keep the cost as low as possible.

One more thing, I have a TA05 and was wondering if the shocks will fit on the M05?

Thanks for baring with me.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RockinRo
OK great...would love to keep the cost as low as possible.

One more thing, I have a TA05 and was wondering if the shocks will fit on the M05?

Thanks for baring with me.
yes but it is best to get the short spring set to lower the car , and i always add 4 to 5 mm spacers under the piston inside the shock to limit up movement but this is just personal
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1
Well i am the quickest at our club with my 40hrs motors , to the point where the rest of the guys are doing it too

I use the 3Racing speed gears so i need the torque too not the revs

Look, I can think of at least 20 reasons why you might be the quickest in your club that have nothing to do with how you break in your motors. Mind you, I'm not saying that what you're doing is without merit, but is not a major reason or even much of the reason for being the quickest.

In my opinion, most of these weird and sometimes comical methods of break in are a little like pissin' in the ocean to raise the water level. The gains are insignificant compared to other things. The other things have been enumerated so many times we need not go there.

If your club allows stuff like speed up gears, you should get a Red Dot 540J motor from Doc Mertes and find out what real motor speed is. Your 40 hr motor will be down about 5,000 rpm at 5v.
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1
i wouldn't worrie about servo speeds for a mini LOL

a mid range servo is ok , i ran a cheap bluebird servo for 2 years till i found a 2nd hand Savox fast servo then i turned the Expo down to 50% on my transmitter
I second that..I had to turn down my expo ot 60%
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Look, I can think of at least 20 reasons why you might be the quickest in your club that have nothing to do with how you break in your motors. Mind you, I'm not saying that what you're doing is without merit, but is not a major reason or even much of the reason for being the quickest.

In my opinion, most of these weird and sometimes comical methods of break in are a little like pissin' in the ocean to raise the water level. The gains are insignificant compared to other things. The other things have been enumerated so many times we need not go there.

If your club allows stuff like speed up gears, you should get a Red Dot 540J motor from Doc Mertes and find out what real motor speed is. Your 40 hr motor will be down about 5,000 rpm at 5v.
i WONT buy a $45 motor plus sending to Holland on the principle of it is super expensive for mini racing when my car is quick enough , i didn't say i was quick only because of the motor but i compaired it to a waterdipped and a new un-run in motor and this was the one that gave me the fastest and most consistant lap times

but i am still a novice to mini racing and have a lot to learn still
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:16 PM
  #12360  
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I wish my problem is not enough speed. I need to get the little buggers to handle. I have a M03 and M04.
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