The 3003 is fine ,but the 3004 is a little better it has ball bearing supported output shaft . Stay away from high speed servo's ,make the car very twitchy to drive. Welcome to the world of mini's , most fun R/C car you'll ever drive!!

I use a Futaba 9252 digital in my M-05 ,with no exponential and its great.
Use it on high grip surfaced concrete ,indoors. My car is super stable and easy to drive with aggression.

M03R
 

hate to trade it but,if any1's looking i have a good car FT
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade-16/ :)

hobbywing esc
 

I'm sure that this has been asked a few times, but after searching through this thread, I couldn't find an answer.

Just curious what hobbywing esc people are running...is it the 35a or 60a? and i've read the the 13T is the best motor choice?

and if I do decide the go BL, is there anything i should upgrade right away? or will all the stock components handle BL power? It'll be going in a M04L Beetle.

Thanks

We use the 35 amp 13 turn as a control combo. Motor can is etched for tech.

It is cheap and similar to a good black can in performance. Just set and forget.
Best rule ever introduced in Aus mini racing. Imho.

Here's a link to the system at m-chassis.com.

But the systems are readily available at a number of outlets, and I believe Venom Racing also have their identical (but green!) version out now as well.

Fleety is correct - it's the best thing we ever did for Mini racing in Aus. I've still got the original system we got for testing 2 years ago and it's still perfect!

i ran my m03 today.with the xevo ff conversion kit... after a half an hour the car lost power. all the gears were spinning at maximum throttle but the dogbones didnt turn. tbe problem is in the ball differential. the ball differential is brand new. i never had ball differentials before... looking for good advice! thanks!

also, the wheelss spin freely; so its not stuck or something!

sounds like the diff came loose all you should have 2 do is retighten it

at a drop of thread lock also

Fleety,

Silly question, But how does one know if they have a high speed servo or not?

I have a Spektrum metal bearing servo (S100)

I have a couple of S3003 and S3004 futaba's lying around.

Thanks for the info. What about the 9T motor? If i'm not racing or anything, can the mini handle the 9T?

and with either one, do i need to upgrade the diff?

You need to check the transition time in the servo specs. It will be near the torque figure.

I think that more important than speed, is the precision of a digital servo.
My 9252s were bought second hand , for fifty bucks each. They are excellent for both mini and touring cars.

They centre better and make the overall feel much smoother.
I personally don't like running exponential either , as with the mini's inherent slop, I tend to chase the car along the straight.
Whereas direct (linear ) allows me to pull it into line before it gets wild.

If you see me in the pits next time you are at WHRC, be sure to bring your car over for a look in.
Sometimes a different set of eyes can spot a simple flaw in setup or build.

A couple of guys last race night were surprised at how plush my suspension is.
Basically my theory is, that good competition breeds good fun. So helping to bring guys up to pace, adds to my own enjoyment.

Watch out for the speckled fluoro green M-05L.

Michael.

Hmmm, not something I'd do. You would flog the cv shafts and pins to death, if you could get it to hook up that is.
A spool would be more suitable than a diff , for power handling, but would work the above items harder.

If you try a 9 turn, be sure to video the the carnage , whoops ! I meant performance !!

Haha...as fun as that video would be to make, I think I'll stay away from the 9T :smile:

Thanks for all the help. I want to make sure that I get nice and dialed in. I'm sure I'll be back soon for more help.

Tamiya Titanium coated suspension pin !