All you need is a Futaba 3004, $20.00

Thanks guys. I haven't begun to build the kit, and I wasn't even sure if the Mini required a "standard" sized servo or smaller.

On asphalt, how are you guys curing traction rolls? Sorry if it has been asked before.

Running an S3004 servo too, although I think its dying because its buzzing like mad. Don't need a lot of "servo" for the Tamiya mini. I had a faster servo in it once but had to turn down steering expo since the mini was too twitchy on the slightest movement of the wheel.

sanwa no good also??

i dunno much about F3004, but i have tried F3003 on my minis, its worked fine until 1 day i found that its unable to return to the center position, but it will return if you on and off, but when running and you hit something(lightly) its just wont maintain straight any more. after the incident., i have tried with my 3 others F3003 all same, the problem its fix when i change to a ko propo digital servo.

Speaking of servos, has anyone else had a problem mounting their servo in the M-05? I've tried 3 different servos, and in all cases the wires coming out of them interfere with the posts that hold the servo in place.

Am I doing something wrong?

Jim

I just put the wires between the 2 servo posts and put the screws in. It was tight but it worked.

OK Guys here's another one for you!

I bought a black chrome frame, it has been used a bit outside, so it's scratched on the bottom it is missing paint, is there a way I can fix that?

Thanks again

Starteur

m chassis alloy dampers
 

Hi all


I am just in the process of setting up my m chassis tamiya alloy dampers what is the best to use a three hole or 2 hole plastic piston end?

thanks

Hi green mini, for me and I think a lot of the guys on this forum use the three hole piston end. The reason is I can control what oil weight to use and can make the damper more fluid or less depending on the track.
My suggested starting point would be three hole piston ends all round with 50 weight oil front & 40 weight oil rear.

John

I've always used the hitec metal gear high torque servo's, but they're bulky and heavy in a mini.

I was thinking of switching to a Futaba S9551 Low profile digital. Any opinions? Any problems?

Thanks

I have the 9551 servos in every car I own ... quick, reliable .. enough said

I second that! :nod:

John

cornering
 

i have got an mo3 mini a couple of weeks ago and i race it every friday my only downfall it corning, it pritty much keeps going in a straight line it is compleatly standered apart from a sport tuned motor :D which is now the fastest mini in a straight line at the club.
p.s it also is running 10th scale touring car wheels.

thanks in advance

dan

Just performed a M05 conversion on my spare stock M03.. very easy to do, maybe $40 of parts and you have a whole new car..

The only 2 tricky parts that you can't take from your M03 are the step screws that hold the steering rack together, and the threaded steering rod. I ended up chopping the heads off of two long 3mm screws and CA gluing them into a Carbon Fiber rod with a 3mm hole. It's solid and very light.

It's incredibly responsive, I'm finding, even just on my street! I have a ball diff in mine, and it's crazy how much rear traction I have now that the servo's back there.

I wonder if people will "fine tune" their rear weight by swapping out different weight servos.. :D

I'm now waiting for a CF/aluminum steering rack that actually uses bearings in the links, and a sway bar kit, since the old one won't work.