bowl806,

The HW BL 13T 3000Kv system comes with the speedie, motor and a setting card. This card allows you to change 11 different settings on the speedie. If you get the Version 2 system this allows you to upgrade the speedie using the adapter card,(not included, brought as a aftermarket item) and a pc.

The settings mostly played with on the speedie, are the drag brake, punch and motor timing.

Regards,

Calvin.

Ok guys here's one for you.

I built my plastic super mini shocks, and every race I have to re-build them because I lost pressure, what am I doing wrong?

I bought those because everybody told me I didn't need the bling bling ones.

When they are re-build I can usually last one race day, the next week I have to check them again, is that normal?

Starteur

What do you mean by "lose pressure"? Are you losing oil out of the seals?

The CVA shocks are pretty flawed at damping (massive gap between piston and body so they need heavy oils), but that also makes them pretty foolproof to build.

The only think I can think of is that you are using the diaphragm in the wrong way, pressuring the shock, and forcing the oil out of the seals.

The diaphragm should be seated in the shock without any dents, and any excess oil pushed out before the cap goes on.

By losing pressure I mean that, when I try to collapse the shock by hand with no spring, it stays in and doesn't come back out to its position even if it is almost full of oil, there is always a little bit of oil missing when that condition occurs.

I always build my shocks like you said by taking the excess of oil out when I put the diaphram in.

By the way I have a few friends that have the same problem, so we are surely doing something wrong!

starteur

After you have filled the shock with oil, do you move the shock shaft up and down to release any air bubbles?

You would expect the damper to stay in, rebound should be limited to a few mm.

If you really want a hard damper rebound, put an o-ring or a foam chunk into the bladder gap. Personally I leave the rebound to the spring.

Calvin, Thanks for the input! Of the 2 systems, which is your preference? I totally understand most of the performance is the driver! The idea is to change from MM7700 to the HW in a Mini M-03 for more controllable racing.
Thanks again,
Eric

Thanks to you all, I will try your recommendations after the week end, when I get back from vacation.


Thanks again guys

Starteur

Eric, it's not a matter of choice which system you get. The Version II is all they make now. It's just whatever one they have in stock.
To be honest it doesnt make any difference anyway. Just buy one and never look back.
Our oldest systems are now nearly 18 months old and still going strong - including a 1000 lap enduro (in 45+C heat)

In all the years I've been Mini racing (since the M01) this is the single biggest improvement we've made.

OK Tony--I believe you (no sarcasm intended) Just to confirm it is the EZRUN-35a SL HW Brushless ESC/3000 13t motor- correct? Thanks! Eric

Eric,

That is the system. The only difference between the old and new system is that the punch setting has more adjustments and the version 2 is USB upgradeable if you purchase the interface.

Tony is correct in that on the track they offer the same performance. At this time, no software has been released to upgrade the version 2.

Regards,

Calvin.

Calvin, Tony-- Thank you very much gentlemen! Now I need to know an approx $$$ and location to order for this system M-05? maybe soon

Thanks again, Eric

Eric,

RC mart has them, as does some of the Australian web shops. Price in Aust approx $130/140 complete.

Regards,

Calvin.

Thanks Calvin! I'll be looking to order to ship to USA. You know how we Americans are- ha

Mini Series
 

I apologize guys but just an FYI our MJGTC Series has a class
for the tamiya Mo3's and Mo5's

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...series-73.html