Here is one for you Tony!

I bought the short springs 56630-56631=56632 for my friction shocks but they are too short, should I put the original springs (chrome) back ?

Are those short springs only for the super mini oil shocks?

Plus if I follow your friction shocks build-up, when I put the o-rings on the shaft it is hard to put them in the black tube, am I using the wrong ones? I am using the same ones that go in the outdrives.

Sorry to boughter you again but it is my first mini

Thanks

Starteur

Starteur,

You will need to use a little force to get the shock retainer on. The spring also needs to be squashed firmly.

For the short springs you can use external spacers to fit around the shock which will give more ride height.

However you want your mini to sit about 5mm measured from the front and 5/6mm at the rear. All the shocks I have built with the fuel tube and fitted with the shorter springs have not required external spacers.

Regards,

Calvin.

Wish I could be there. Please post Pics and vids.

just wondering if any body has used a datsun 1200 or 1600 body shell on a mini & how do they fit? would love to try one but would like it to sit low.

Thanks Calvin,

There are a few things that still need answering, what's the spring lenght I should be using for friction shocks?
Also the o-rings from the output shafts , are they the good size to put in those shocks inside the black tube? Because it jams inside even if I put oil in it, I have to fight my way in, is that normal?



I am new at this, I bought a used M03L and before I invest in oil shocks, unis,turnbuckles etc... I want to ''feel'' what it is to drive a mini first because I never tried one before, then if I get the itch I will buy whatever is needed to race that mini.

Best regards

Starteur

Starteur,

You can use either the o rings, 4 or 5 in each shock or 5mm of fuel line. As Tony stated you need to ensure that you put grease on the inside of the black rubber tube otherwise it does not slide properly. The tube can be cut shorter as stated in a previous post. 8mm front and rear. The o rings do not have to be black, they can be orange etc, just as long as they are the same thickness. You can still use the standard spring that came with the kit.

The other springs you have are the short TRF springs. Tamiya part number 53333 spring set will still work with your modified shocks.

The standard springs will work, however the ride height is still a tad high. All of those that I have performed this modification for have been pleased with the results. The main thing is to use plenty of grease. The same grease you get in the kit.

These shocks will not be as good as oil shocks, but can be made to work well. If you really want them to hook up, then you need to measure the springs so you can match them. Now we are into another dimension.

Far easier to get the super mini cva shocks.

Regards,

Calvin.

Yay, Cal's answering everything and I don't have to....

Yeah like we aren't gonna have pics and vids of this on the site! I can't wait myself and its still 6 and bit months away!

Thanks for the reply Calvin

I think I have the original M03 (Rover Mini Ie the proper Mini )

I've not heard of the M03S....I thought there was M03, M03M (M03R) & M03L

Not too bother about alloy bits as we are trying to keep this a CHEAP formula

My Mini seems to handle OK with the standard rear hubs, racing on carpet with foams

Thaks once again

4_cell_racer,

The MO3S is the latest version of the MO3L. Difference from the original MO3L is that the revised front and rear hubs are included with the kit and the latest MO3L body 2006S mini cooper.

The zero degree hubs do not have any marks on them and take a 1150 bearing. The revised two degree rear hubs take a 1050 wheel bearing.

There is a replacement Tamiya Part number TL01/MO3 Toe in rear upright which is two degrees available. This also takes a 1150 wheeel bearing.

The rear toe in will make your car more stable and less tail happy.

Regards,

Calvin.

i wonder how long would it last with hb 13t bl on a 20t pinion....

30 min??

Looks like it doesn't have cavities to add weight like the 3200... wonder how will the weight addition will change?

Stocker,

I have one of these packs and we have tested with it. You can squeeze a sheet of lead on top of the pack and still fit it into the battery hole in the chassis. We put the lead inside the chassis (100g) to make up for that lost in the lipo cavities.

And as for track testing ... well .... these packs fly!!!!!!!

Where did you put the rets of the 100g? Using the 3200s, my m03 seem to need the weight to be in the battery cavity to handle well, if I put the weight on top of the chassis or the back of the car, the steering seems to become very twitchy and the back loose.

The extra weight was placed just behind the battery slot inside the chassis so very close to the battery slot