295LikesTamiya mini cooper
01-20-2009 | 04:37 AM
#8146
hmm...
let see what i remember,
1) with reverse, 25%
2) minimum punch.
other pretty standard.....
i am still having traction roll problems, hehe
sluggish, my only feel clogging during start up, when its running, its quite smooth i would say.....i am using 60A esc...
on rubber touring tyre. its very fast....compare to sport tuned
let see what i remember,
1) with reverse, 25%
2) minimum punch.
other pretty standard.....
i am still having traction roll problems, hehe
sluggish, my only feel clogging during start up, when its running, its quite smooth i would say.....i am using 60A esc...
on rubber touring tyre. its very fast....compare to sport tuned
01-20-2009 | 07:00 AM
#8148
thanks for the pointers. mine comes with a 25A esc. does that explain why it is pretty slow compared to your more powerful 60A?
traction roll is always there...you get a good selection of tires plus some refined driving, that ought to minimise traction roll...
will be trying on the standard mini tires this weekend at KR.
traction roll is always there...you get a good selection of tires plus some refined driving, that ought to minimise traction roll...
will be trying on the standard mini tires this weekend at KR.
yeah 101, add weight can reduce traction rolls....i have added a lot...lol....
thanks for feedback....
01-20-2009 | 02:53 PM
#8151
Tech Rookie
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
From: Cork, Ireland
Hello folks,
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
01-20-2009 | 05:34 PM
#8152
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Hello folks,
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
01-20-2009 | 07:28 PM
#8153
Shock tubes
When you are using friction shocks I read that you are suppose to put o-rings inside to shim them ( 5mm), do you put one outside to keep them from botoming to hard and everybody says that you build the shocks per instructions so does that mean that the rubber tube inside is 10mm for the front and 12mm for the rear?
Thanks
Starteur
Thanks
Starteur
01-21-2009 | 09:26 AM
#8154
Hello folks,
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
It all comes down to driving and set-up.
MINI SPORTS
Any Tamiya "M" chassis car (M01, M02, M02-L, M03, MO3M, M04L, MO4M).
Tamiya Hop-Ups allowed, no chassis lightening allowed.
Kit type closed-end bell, silver can motor only. Motors must not perform better that a 1.3amp draw at 2volts on a Peak or Orion Motor Performance Monitor. Motors will be checked throughout the race day. This is being done to tighten up the racing and encourage new racers to join this low cost type of racing!
Spec Battery rules apply. (Reedy 2400 Wolf Pack, Peak/Orion 2400sport packs)
M04 may be shortened from "long" to "medium" length, when doing so, only 60D tires and medium length bodies (Eunos Roadster and Alfa Romeo GTA) can be used.
26mm tires ONLY for cars featuring S2000, BMW M Roadster, 911, Boxster, SLK bodies.
Tamiya rubber tires only, no foam tires.
Porsche Boxster, Porsche 911, Mercedes SLK, BMW M Roadster and Honda S2000 may not run extra wide or offset wheels.
Pinion gears must follow this chart: MO3 20T pinion, MO4L with 26mm tires 17T pinion, MO4m with 60D tires 19T pinion. MO1/MO2 cars with 60D tires must use 20T pinion and a 16T pinion with 26mm tires. RWD MO2 must use an 18T pinion gear with 60D tires.
Chassis drive must follow the type of body that you are using. (i.e. No RWD Mini Coopers)
No wings are allowed. (Other than wing supplied in the Swift kit on the Swift body)
Batteries may be taped in, in lieu of using the supplied battery holder.
Any Tamiya "M" chassis car (M01, M02, M02-L, M03, MO3M, M04L, MO4M).
Tamiya Hop-Ups allowed, no chassis lightening allowed.
Kit type closed-end bell, silver can motor only. Motors must not perform better that a 1.3amp draw at 2volts on a Peak or Orion Motor Performance Monitor. Motors will be checked throughout the race day. This is being done to tighten up the racing and encourage new racers to join this low cost type of racing!
Spec Battery rules apply. (Reedy 2400 Wolf Pack, Peak/Orion 2400sport packs)
M04 may be shortened from "long" to "medium" length, when doing so, only 60D tires and medium length bodies (Eunos Roadster and Alfa Romeo GTA) can be used.
26mm tires ONLY for cars featuring S2000, BMW M Roadster, 911, Boxster, SLK bodies.
Tamiya rubber tires only, no foam tires.
Porsche Boxster, Porsche 911, Mercedes SLK, BMW M Roadster and Honda S2000 may not run extra wide or offset wheels.
Pinion gears must follow this chart: MO3 20T pinion, MO4L with 26mm tires 17T pinion, MO4m with 60D tires 19T pinion. MO1/MO2 cars with 60D tires must use 20T pinion and a 16T pinion with 26mm tires. RWD MO2 must use an 18T pinion gear with 60D tires.
Chassis drive must follow the type of body that you are using. (i.e. No RWD Mini Coopers)
No wings are allowed. (Other than wing supplied in the Swift kit on the Swift body)
Batteries may be taped in, in lieu of using the supplied battery holder.
01-21-2009 | 12:50 PM
#8156
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 361
From: Flanders, Belgium
01-21-2009 | 12:54 PM
#8157
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 361
From: Flanders, Belgium
A lipo is indeed sa bit more expensive then a conventional NiMH-battery.
But with ONE lipo you can drive the whole day. With NiMH you will need more then one packs if you want to drive more then one heat.
+ maintenance on the Lipo is much easier then on a NiMH.
So in my humble opinion, LiPO is better and over all cheaper for beginning RC-drivers.
01-21-2009 | 03:39 PM
#8159
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
What's to understand? It says..
Just lob some spacers (fuel tubing or 'o' rings are fine) on the shock shaft to get around 5mm or so in total. Then assemble the shock as per instructions but cut the rubber tube to about 8mm for both ends. Yes, the shock shaft with the spacers fits INSIDE the black rubber tube, INSIDE the shock body. Make sure to lubricate the inner of the black rubber tube.
Says nothing about anything at all on the outside...
Just lob some spacers (fuel tubing or 'o' rings are fine) on the shock shaft to get around 5mm or so in total. Then assemble the shock as per instructions but cut the rubber tube to about 8mm for both ends. Yes, the shock shaft with the spacers fits INSIDE the black rubber tube, INSIDE the shock body. Make sure to lubricate the inner of the black rubber tube.
Says nothing about anything at all on the outside...
