TIE RODS
 

Another method for increasing the length of the tie rod ball ends is to replace them with a 10mm droop screw, loctite into metal knuckle and place a 2mm spacer and then thread on a 5mm Ball connector.

This will alter the bump stop at the knuckle end.

Later

Calvin.

Hey guys ... I'm going to the US Touring Car race in Milwaukee and will be running my mini. I'm having a terrible wheel hop problem ... it happens during high speed turns. I have no idea how to fix this. I don't think the body is dragging or anything. Can someone please give me some ideas of things to try? THanks

Wheel Hop problems ? You means the dogbones chatter badly during full turns ?

If that so, buy Tamiya Universal dog bones.

I mean the entire car "chatters" going around turns when at higher speed. It looks like the rear end is "hopping" around the corner. I changed tires, I changed ride height, I disconnected the rear sway bar, I mounted the body higher, I changed the front diff ... I have no idea what is going on or how to fix it.

Anyone have a good oval setup for the M03? Going to try to run some carpet oval this weekend with mine.

Usually a change of springs does the trick....try going harder in the rear.

Are u using Mini Cooper old ( classic ) body style ?

I am currently running white in the front (with 100w oil) and blue in back (with 50w (I think)). So, I should go harder in rear. Will do.


I'm running the Swift Chassis with Swift Body. I do have the receiver and speed control mounted on top of battery instead of inside the rear as previously posted. Does that mean I may not have enough weight in the back to keep it planted? (Someone at the track mentioned that). Thanks

I think you should check these areas :

1. Your rear tires might hit the body fender, thus the rear tires occasionally stop ( you feel chattering effect ) when rubber meet the body.

2. Rear tires ocasionally skid sideways ?? ..... Do you mean occasional sideway skidding on sharp cornering ??

Are you racing on asphalt or carpet ? Foam or Rubber ?

Don't stress too much about it anyway. It isn't necessarily slowing you down. I remember Tims car at our 2006 State Titles down here was chattering like a mad thing all weekend.
And he still won by a mile...

BTW, it might sound mad...but try leaving your blues on the rear and going softer on the front..like yellow. You could be surprised.

Thanks for the reply.

1. Rear tires not hitting ... no black marks in body (there are some in front wheel wells, but I think I've fixed that by raising body slightly.)

2. The track yesterday had a long straightaway, with a high speed sweeper into a 180 degree turn. Car chattered around the 180. I think the rear tires were wheel hopping. Chattered around a couple turns in infield as well.

Carpet racing (pretty green, not a lot of traction down for carpet). Rubber tires (S-grip and M-Grip).

Thanks

Sorry, I think I'm not qualified to answer yours now...... I'm racing Mini Cooper on Asphalt with foams. Once I had rear chattering problem because I was using mini cooper classic body, and rear foam tires hit the body fender. I have to widen the rear body fender and the chattering is gone now.

Perhaps you need grippier rear tires like Slick 60D to lessen sideway skidding ( just trying to help ).

Ive just bought a 2nd hand MO3 chassis that is setup with short wheelbase FWD.
Ive fitted Tamiya ally shocks with 40wt oil and blue springs up front and white on the rear.
Ive also fitted a old FF01 ball diff and Tamiya universals.
Id like to know what is popular/base setup for asphalt/rubber tyres ???
I am using a old Tamiya Fiat 500 Abarth body.
Just started reading through this thread and thought id post.

This is what my friends and I use : We race in asphalt with rubber or foam

Tamiya 60D tires with Tamiya 60D Hard foam inserts
Front : 2 holes white piston, Blue Springs or White Springs, 40W oil, 4.5mm ride height, 2 degree Toe Out.
Rear : 3 holes white piston, Yellow Springs, 40W oil, 6.5mm ride height, using optional Toe In rear uprights.

Takt- it's a rear droop problem. Don't change anything but droop- same springs, same oil, same piston. Wheel hop is generally caused by too little droop, but it's really a droop balance thing.