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how is droop adjusted on the car ?
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It changes depending on the amount of internal spacers that you use on the shocks.
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Originally Posted by rccardr
(Post 4020849)
Takt- it's a rear droop problem. Don't change anything but droop- same springs, same oil, same piston. Wheel hop is generally caused by too little droop, but it's really a droop balance thing.
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Hi all, noobie here need some help! Just got myself M-03 kit, hope to get some tips from all mini bros here..thks!
1) regarding the TA03 ball diff, while closing up the diff plate using the lock nut wrench, how tight should i turn it?? i noticed that if closed too tight, both the axles can't turn in opposite direction smoothly.. like got alot of resistance feel.. if close too loose, both axles spins freely without too much stress.. abit confused now.:confused: 2) which way should i place the ball diff? The side with the lock nut+plate should be at the 'FRONT WHEEL DRIVE' side? or the motor Heat sink side? Need advice. cheers. |
Assemble the diff into the car with the nylon gear on the r/hand side..
How tight? Just tighten it right up - simple. Don't worry about how it feels - tight is right in this case. It'll be fine. |
Originally Posted by tony gray
(Post 4022337)
Assemble the diff into the car with the nylon gear on the r/hand side..
How tight? Just tighten it right up - simple. Don't worry about how it feels - tight is right in this case. It'll be fine. So the nylon gear part is on the same side as the heat sink portion...looking down on chassis front end pointing north... Alrighty.... Thanks for the fast reply tony! You're the man! Happy adv NEW YEAR all !!! |
Originally Posted by tony gray
(Post 4022337)
Assemble the diff into the car with the nylon gear on the r/hand side..
How tight? Just tighten it right up - simple. Don't worry about how it feels - tight is right in this case. It'll be fine. |
I'm assuming that he's assembled it correctly...For his sake I hope so!
But if it's all correct then as tight as you can get it is the way to do those suckers. We do all our minis that way, have for years. |
Thanks for th einfo ASW :)
Is the front droop critical in the setup for the mini ??? I have the ally shocks with no spacers inside, thinking it will lend towards more body roll. |
Originally Posted by tony gray
(Post 4022605)
I'm assuming that he's assembled it correctly...For his sake I hope so!
But if it's all correct then as tight as you can get it is the way to do those suckers. We do all our minis that way, have for years. |
Originally Posted by razzor
(Post 4022630)
Thanks for th einfo ASW :)
Is the front droop critical in the setup for the mini ??? I have the ally shocks with no spacers inside, thinking it will lend towards more body roll. After longtime playing nitro racing, back to mini cooper racing is really relaxing. Droop is important but not that critical. ( Mostly people have large amount of droop ). Low ride height is the key in M03. I'm using TRF alluminium shocks. I put two o-rings inside the damper to shorten the shock length. Preferably you should get the super mini shock You can run very low ride height but still has suspension action with super mini shock. http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/prod...ader_50746.jpg |
okay so I've just built my m03m kit, for a new class this year.
My question is, I appear to have positive camber on the front and rear. Is there anything that can be done to fix this? I'm still using the friction shocks until my hopup shocks get here from tower. everything else is bog stock. Any help much appreciated. |
Ash its because you're using the friction shocks at their standard length..
You need to drop that sucker down.. This'll show you how... Forget the black tubing inside the shock just use the spacers as shown to dump it. The black tubing does bugger all anyway. As usual, it's on our site!.... |
Thanks tony, thats fantastic.
Your website is like watching a movie, everytime I look there I see something I didn't notice from the last time! Cheers mate! |
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