Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Thanks!

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

Would anyone know this one? Does it matter which side the gear on the ball diff is positioned in the gear box? I seem to be hooking & roll only when I turn right and I thought maybe this could be a factor. Any suggestions?

gpwpat

well I tested my Integy m-03 high speed gear set. Yes it does have higher top end speed. it comes with all gears required and both gears for either the geared diff or a ball diff. the ball diff grear is really skinny. cuts down alot of friction. I already took the gears out though due to the fact that my motor realy didn't have enough kick for these gears. It got really hot so hot in fact that it would burn me if I touched it. I think these gears are better suited for a smaller pinion and a hotter motor. Right now I am just running a old trinity stock motor. I still think with the hotter gears the m-03 was still a bit slower than the m-01 but can't confirm for sure until I get my new reciever and have a drag race.

tamiyarcracer

The gears or more designed for silvercan motors.

tamiyarcracer

I don't think it makes a difference.
Check to make sure that the car turns the same size circle left to right.

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

I did, it does steer the same. I even dialed out some of the steering on the right and it still rolls only when I turn hard right. This is not the case when I turn hard left though.

tamiyarcracer

Not sure what to tell you.
Are your shocks built exactly the same?

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the tips! If I get the long arm set for the TB01, will this allow me to use standard 190mm bodies or is the chassis still too short?

As for shocks, I just got a hold of some spare parts for my TC3 and included in the lot were some associated threaded shock bodies that I plan on rebuilding. Will these fit the M04L or will they be too long? What spring/oil combination do you suggest? Will stiffer springs in the front with 40wt oil all around suffice or should I use lighter oil in the front as well? Thanks!!!

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

Yep, just rebuilt all of them a week ago. Weird isn't it.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

On the shocks it depends on the bodies. I ran the regular alum bodies and it did not leave a whole lot of room for travel when at 4-5mm ride height. Alot of people use the Tamiya super-mini plastic shock to give more travel. For spring and oil it depends on your surface I prefer 2 hole and 40wt with the "neon" blue old rate spring depending on grip. Oh and sorry I put the wrong LA kit it is for the TL01 not the TB. I think the 2 are very similar though.

For bodies you will be able to use any of the Short Wheel Base bodies Tamiya produced. Corolla Rally car, Porsche GT1, Renault, VW GTI mk2 (if you can find one). The later body was the long WB. there are 1 or 2 more but I cannot think of them off the top of my head.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

Aries sounds simple but check the bead on your tires. If it has even a small area that has come unglued then it will show up as a traction roll like you are having. Also try limiting your rear shock length(along with front) start with 3 o-rings internally.

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

does it matter if I have plastic spacers or O-rings?

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

Well, you can use either, as long as they have the same length of spacing in the end. O-rings are generally all the same size and readily available so there's no confusion.

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

Since the mini use a direct link between the servo and the steering how much torque is required?

Any preferences of steering servo's?

Is a high speed servo a must in a mini for racing or will this make the car even twitchier?


Thanks

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

Standard servo will do just fine, the high speed servo is a overkill.