can somebody verify if any of the HPI mini bodies fit the M03R? Specifically, i'm looking at the Civic body

thanks

vic

How "complicated" can a claim rule be? Lay down your $30 (or whatever) and take the motor. This has been used to take engines out of the equation on circle tracks across the nation for DECADES, works like a treat and it's WAY more pita to remove those engines.

I have not, and I'm sure it is a fair bit of fun. HOWEVER...we have heard (anecdotal, to be certain) evidence of people buying bags of motors looking for the "keepers". There's an entire thread about Silver Can Ju-Ju. Overacheivers like these are what take fun out of what is supposed to be an "everyman" class and a simple rule like "claiming" pretty well eliminates it by removing the incentive for such behaviors.


Here is where my real point was...the Regional events are VERY important--they are the gateway to participation at the National event. I don't disagree with this situation (in fact the ROAR Nats and Regionals would be far more relevant if they went back to the same situation) but would feel the tech to be at least AS important at the Regional level than the Nationals. And let's be honest, the tech requirements of these cars ain't too tough--they've got the shortest, most clear rules I've seen in racing. I guarantee you I could "train" my wife (who does not race RC) to tech the M-chassis cars. She doesn't have to know WHAT was done, just to spot the difference(s) and ask questions.

Why yes I have. If a club or group is going to host ANY big event they need people to fill certain roles or the event suffers (and we've ALL been to events either way here and have seen the differences). A TCS Regional event IS a big event, there should be designated officials. Period.

Scottrik

Actually, I think the double stuffing is not for more rollout.

With the front drive mini, there is a forward weight bias. The 60 D tires have a fairly large sidewall height, and that sidewall is fairly soft, expecially on the S grip radials and A compound slicks. What double stuffing does is give you a full tire, one in which the sidewall will not flex or collapse (fold over) during cornering. Less flex or collapse means that the car will scrub off less speed during corners - keeps the corner speed up. It also will react faster in back to back steering transitions (chicanes).

If you watch a mini in a corner and it seems to snap the back end around unexpectedly, one thing to observe is whether the front tire sidewall is "folding over", digging in the front outside tire in the turn, which causes the inside rear tire to have less weight or even lift, and thus the spin out.

If you have the combination of a front tire folding over and too little shock suspension travel, you get a combination that can lead to snap roll overs in high traction situations like carpet.

The reason I have not found double stuffing the rears to be helpful is that the rear end of a mini is so light compared to the front, this "folding over" effect of the tire sidewall is minimal - thus no need to double stuff the rear tires.

I was expecting S grips - but they are not so marked and appear to be the standard low grip regular kit tires.

You learn something new everyday. Thanks.

I think it is a combination of both keeping the rollout as high as possible and keeping sidewall flex to a minimum.

Last time I checked, Mini was no more an 'everyman' class than, say, GT1. That would be 'Spec'.

Therefore, in my mind (and I've been doing this for a little while), the only difference between Mini (or any other closed-endbell class, for that matter) is that the endbell is...closed. That rule is inviolable.

The TCS rules say you can't open that baby up and it has to start as a Mabuchi or Johnson. So once you get away from the trick 20/21/23 turn 'looks like a Mabuchi' cheater motors (and let's face it, those who run them are truly cheating, and cheating themselves), everything else is...legal.

Want to buy a box O' motors and keep the genetic mutants?
Be my guest.
Want to water dip your silver canned wonder in some special prep of chemical condiments?
Right this way.
Feel the need to buy a grand's worth of motor tuning equipment? Please, allow me.
How about high-zoot batteries, speed controls, lightweight servos, Spektrum radio systems, and similar cost-no-object stuff?
May I hold the door for you?

Because at the end of the day, until and unless this becomes another 'Spec' class, it be racing. That means "bring your game".

Having said that, Scottrik is welcome to purchase my mini motor at the end of any TCS regional we both attend and in which he participates. $30- best money you'll ever spend.

Amen to that!

Doc, I got $30 for the motor that won the Seattle TCS!

LMAO!

I've only been running a Mini for a little over a year - I bought a used one and lucked in to a really hot motor (compared to the others in my club) - and I will say that while a super fast motor is a big part of the equation, I will also say that it is NOT all of the equation.

Not to brag on being beaten (?!), but I have been outran by cars that I can easily pull on the straight.

It ain't just motors....

Now that being said - can someone pass me some tricks to get more rpm's out of this thing? :eek::lol:

keep the bushings oiled and run the heck out of it. the old motor is a fast motor in my experience

Where online does everyone get their Mini parts? Also what part numbers are needed to switch to the Swift suspension?
Thanks

51238 x 1 plastics
51239 x 2 4 pack wheel bearings
50882 x 1 kingpin set
Try Speedtech or champrc

Does anyone have a general M03 setup for out side asphalt? Thanks!

I thought I would post this. Trackside has started racing dirt Oval and Minidriver (Dave Weir) decided to put his mini in the mix in Stock and Man it looked good!

Boomer