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Old 09-24-2017, 02:37 PM   #29656
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Alright, thanks. I now ordered their front uprights, since I figure if the original plastic part was so crappy, not much point in getting an identical new one, it'll just break again. Yet the Tamiya aluminum part is too expensive (3x the cost of the YR). I'll also order the steering set tomorrow. Maybe C hub and rear hub (possibly a bit later). At that point I think I'd have the important parts covered durability-wise.
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Old 09-28-2017, 10:59 PM   #29657
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Ready for M-CHASSIS fun. With Protoform SoCal Panel Wagons 225mm.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:48 PM   #29658
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So, what's everyone using for square pack holders with the M-05 v2 anyway? I still haven't decided on a solution.

For one, I have mostly saddle packs which are a bit of a pain with an M-05 as it turns out. Given no proper holder support and also no holes in the middle to plug the power cables there it's a bit of a stretch on my other ESC cable to connect. It reaches, but just barely. Bigger issue is the lack of support. For one battery to test it I put some two-sided tape between the saddle pack cells to hold them together like a stick pack. Since saddles are also slightly thinner than stick packs, I stuck some foam in between the chassis and the battery. It stays in place pretty well, but I don't think I could trust it like that enough to drive (especially in a crash they'd potentially fly).

At the moment I have just one actual stick pack, and it is slightly bulged, making it a tough fit indeed, I'm worried that over time it'd break the chassis even without further bulging, because it certainly puts a stress on the chassis as is. I have a second stick pack ordered, but I still need to be able to use saddles as backup for races and of course for practise.

So, holding the damn things in place. I reckon the saddles will need the foam in any case, and possibly the tape too. But both saddles as well as the sticks still need something to prevent the battery from sliding out sideways (of course with the saddles the cell connector helps with that a bit, but only a bit). Considered Velcro straps either left-to-right or front-to-back direction but that doesn't seem very elegant and given there'd only be tape glue holding the straps in place, I'm not confident they'd stay put in a crash - and front-to-back non-adhesive especially only does so much for sideways sliding. i'd rather avoid anything adhesive in contact with the battery so that they can be removed for charging and of course as not to hamper use in my other cars.

EDIT: Found this 3racing holder... for M05, Graphite Battery Holder ,(M05-20/WO) by 3Racing - I believe the round and square packs are pretty much the same length, so I guess that might work - unless the aluminum shafts would block the connectors? Though I've spent too much on this darn thing as it is And won't be in time for my first one or two races anyway, but for those I guess I can make do with a temporary tape-based solution or something if need be.

Last edited by tvih; 10-02-2017 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:47 PM   #29659
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So, what's everyone using for square pack holders with the M-05 v2 anyway? I still haven't decided on a solution.

For one, I have mostly saddle packs which are a bit of a pain with an M-05 as it turns out. Given no proper holder support and also no holes in the middle to plug the power cables there it's a bit of a stretch on my other ESC cable to connect. It reaches, but just barely. Bigger issue is the lack of support. For one battery to test it I put some two-sided tape between the saddle pack cells to hold them together like a stick pack. Since saddles are also slightly thinner than stick packs, I stuck some foam in between the chassis and the battery. It stays in place pretty well, but I don't think I could trust it like that enough to drive (especially in a crash they'd potentially fly).

At the moment I have just one actual stick pack, and it is slightly bulged, making it a tough fit indeed, I'm worried that over time it'd break the chassis even without further bulging, because it certainly puts a stress on the chassis as is. I have a second stick pack ordered, but I still need to be able to use saddles as backup for races and of course for practise.

So, holding the damn things in place. I reckon the saddles will need the foam in any case, and possibly the tape too. But both saddles as well as the sticks still need something to prevent the battery from sliding out sideways (of course with the saddles the cell connector helps with that a bit, but only a bit). Considered Velcro straps either left-to-right or front-to-back direction but that doesn't seem very elegant and given there'd only be tape glue holding the straps in place, I'm not confident they'd stay put in a crash - and front-to-back non-adhesive especially only does so much for sideways sliding. i'd rather avoid anything adhesive in contact with the battery so that they can be removed for charging and of course as not to hamper use in my other cars.

EDIT: Found this 3racing holder... for M05, Graphite Battery Holder ,(M05-20/WO) by 3Racing - I believe the round and square packs are pretty much the same length, so I guess that might work - unless the aluminum shafts would block the connectors? Though I've spent too much on this darn thing as it is And won't be in time for my first one or two races anyway, but for those I guess I can make do with a temporary tape-based solution or something if need be.
Tape. The v2 manuals even show how to use tape to secure rectangular packs.
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:43 PM   #29660
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Originally Posted by tvih View Post
So, what's everyone using for square pack holders with the M-05 v2 anyway? I still haven't decided on a solution.

For one, I have mostly saddle packs which are a bit of a pain with an M-05 as it turns out. Given no proper holder support and also no holes in the middle to plug the power cables there it's a bit of a stretch on my other ESC cable to connect. It reaches, but just barely. Bigger issue is the lack of support. For one battery to test it I put some two-sided tape between the saddle pack cells to hold them together like a stick pack. Since saddles are also slightly thinner than stick packs, I stuck some foam in between the chassis and the battery. It stays in place pretty well, but I don't think I could trust it like that enough to drive (especially in a crash they'd potentially fly).

At the moment I have just one actual stick pack, and it is slightly bulged, making it a tough fit indeed, I'm worried that over time it'd break the chassis even without further bulging, because it certainly puts a stress on the chassis as is. I have a second stick pack ordered, but I still need to be able to use saddles as backup for races and of course for practise.

So, holding the damn things in place. I reckon the saddles will need the foam in any case, and possibly the tape too. But both saddles as well as the sticks still need something to prevent the battery from sliding out sideways (of course with the saddles the cell connector helps with that a bit, but only a bit). Considered Velcro straps either left-to-right or front-to-back direction but that doesn't seem very elegant and given there'd only be tape glue holding the straps in place, I'm not confident they'd stay put in a crash - and front-to-back non-adhesive especially only does so much for sideways sliding. i'd rather avoid anything adhesive in contact with the battery so that they can be removed for charging and of course as not to hamper use in my other cars.

EDIT: Found this 3racing holder... for M05, Graphite Battery Holder ,(M05-20/WO) by 3Racing - I believe the round and square packs are pretty much the same length, so I guess that might work - unless the aluminum shafts would block the connectors? Though I've spent too much on this darn thing as it is And won't be in time for my first one or two races anyway, but for those I guess I can make do with a temporary tape-based solution or something if need be.
Wow, you're overthinking this way too much. I use the Tamiya aluminium brackets that they released years ago as an M05 part especially for use with cell tape. Like in the manual! If you want an overkill solution run tape around the chassis and cells too at 90 degrees to the front-rear axis but trust me I've never lost a pack in a crash and I only use one loop of tape on the RH side as it's easier to access (no motor in the way).
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:53 AM   #29661
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Well, turns out I couldn't wait and got the M-05 V2 R kit already. But I must say my first impressions aren't that great. Even though I had looked at the part list and also briefly at the manual, it still seems there's less aluminum overall than I somehow expected. And the plastic... doesn't inspire confidence. I'm only at step 6, and as I was screwing in the king pin to the front upright, the damn upright cracked from that side well before the screw was even all the way down (and I noticed that apparently you can't even screw them all the way down... at least not without inviting more chance of cracking). Not sure how long it'll last in use, and according to the above posts epoxy-ing it won't work either. Sigh Does even modeling glue have any effect? Although since it's not particularly strong, I suppose it wouldn't help too much with longevity.

This isn't what I'd call a cheap kit, and especially coming from the offroad side of things this kind of plastic just seems... cheap and crappy And of course, aluminum uprights cost a relative fortune and are NOT available in black, the all-black look being one reason I went for the R. Is the M-07 plastic better? Not that it'd help me at this point.

Oh well. Hopefully no more setbacks...

The rant aside, tires question. For indoor carpet, do the 53215 slicks have more grip than the 50683 radials? These two are the allowed options in the race class I'm participating in, in addition to reinforced slicks which to my understanding are mainly for outdoors? I kinda assumed they would have more grip, being slicks, but after dry-mounting them and thinking on it again I then I realized I don't know what type of rubber either of them are and so on. The radials obviously look a lot nicer, so if the grip is at least as good as the slicks, they'd be nicer to have (although I have to use this set of slicks first anyway since I already bought 'em, I guess).
The chassis and suspension parts are mostly ABS. ABS can be glued with solvents. You will find ABS glue at tyour local hardware store. Or you can get some Methyl Ethyl Ketone (M.E.K.) at the same place, and a metal tipped applicator bottle. That'll let you bond the bits back together.

Even screwed all the way down, the kingpins don't sit tightly against the hub carriers. I ended up shimming mine. A lot. The hubs and carriers are weak points on the chassis and tend to crack. Keep those in stock.

It's worth noting, that the M series cars, saving the M07, are designed to be cheap first, easy to assemble, second, and race cars never. That's why a car like your M05r has carbon reinforced suspension arms, new chassis changes to allow you to set droop. Even then, there's a whole lot of changes to make if you want things like steering to be consistent. (it has terrible bump steer..)

There are some real advanges to the ABS that Tamiya uses on the low end kits. Mostly, that it bounces. You can really put a mini though some poop before it breaks. For example, I had front hub bearings break down without the hub itself breaking. (of course, I've broken three front hubs...)

Having a plastic steering bridge isn't something to be upset about. My yeah Racing steering bridge has bent twice. The plastic won't do that, and the plastic parts fit tighter... when I built my second M05, and I took care, and time, i found that the plastic steering bridge was shockingly good, if done well.

The girlfriend built this one:


She wasn't hurried, and it came out really well. That said, it was to sell, and I hope the buyer is having a good time with it.

While we're at it, the Yeah Racing rear hubs are trash. I went back to the stock plastic.

Also, when you buy springs, be sure you get the right ones. They're the set of springs with just three sets of springs, instead of four. The ones with 4 springs are the hard springs for touring cars, and lead to an impossibly evil car to drive.

I run a square stick pack. How I do it, is I leave the "wings" in place, and wrap a velcro strap around one side of the battery.



Because I wrote a long article, and it's relevant right now: A Real Life Tinker Gnome: Tamiya M05 - Last weeks news, but still an interesting platform.

The M07 is made mostly of glass reinforced plastic. I haven't checked if it's ABS or Nylon. I really like my M07. It's a full on, complete, decent, touring car. Just, tiny sized. and many of it's parts are symmetrical, so you only need to stock "one" set of swingarms, instead of left and right swingarms, or front hubs, or many other parts.

My Writeup on the M07 is coming... And an update to my M05 story.
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Old 10-03-2017, 12:15 PM   #29662
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Eh, I know the manual shows tape, I mentioned tape in my long-winded post, and it is the sort-of easiest solution for a secure fit... but it's also messy. It sucks to retape the battery every single time when you have to change or charge the battery (charging a mounted battery and without a charging bag isn't allowed at the tracks around here for safety reasons). Not that basic tape would be expensive, but as said, an annoyance (and extra trash) that shouldn't be necessary in any reasonably thought-out car, designed for racing or not. Making the parts to support holding a pack properly in place wouldn't take much. And at least the velcro I have can't be tightened enough to be considered secure with this kind of a mount, coming from offroad I barely trust it to hold my receivers and transponders (since I have to move them between cars).

And on that design notion, yeah it's clear it isn't a purpose-built racer. However if anything this car was more annoying to build than any others I've built, not easier. The e-clips alone are enough to drive one nuts.

For the aluminum, yeah, it works differently than plastic obviously, but if the plastic can't even take a properly aligned screw without cracking, I'm not exactly bursting with confidence in it holding up to driving either. I've messed up with screws on my offroad cars, but those parts just simply don't crack that way.
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Old 10-03-2017, 12:56 PM   #29663
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People use the same tape for weeks at a time. At least at my track they do.

The M05 is annoying. If you want an easier solution to the e-clips, buy the stock suspension screws. Heh. That said, getting to the diff, and gearbox, is going to be a pain, no matter what you do. The M07, solves all of that.

I've never split a hub when installing the kingpins. And i've installed them on eight hubs now, I think. And on at least one set, I reinstalled the same pins a half a dozen times to get the shimming right.

I'm saying, you got unlucky, or were trying to get the screw to seat, and that's what lead to the splitting of the hub.

I'm not trying to defend the car, just... making sure the weaknesses are really the weaknesses.

I stripped out that little flat headed screw on the front of my gearbox during diff changes a month or two ago. It made me upset.. and that should have been a ST screw, instead of a machine screw.

Take a close look at the M07, if you really want a mini. I think that may be what you really want.
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:20 PM   #29664
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Nah, I had to get the 210mm wheelbase to run the bodies I want/need. Had the M-07 supported that, I would've gotten it. Besides, at this point I'd have to sell at a massive deficit, something I'm not gonna do. Once the uprights and steering parts arrive I should hopefully be set other than the battery holder issue for at least the first races. Although I gotta ask, what's specifically trash about the Yeah Racing rear hubs - fitment, durability, both? Any experience on the C-hubs?

As far as reusing tape, I've never come across tape that could be reused even several times while still having any actual adhesiveness left, never mind for weeks At any rate if I wasn't using the same batteries for other cars, it'd be much simpler...
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:00 PM   #29665
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The yeah racing rear hubs fit looser on the hinge pins. That said, they're setup with a screw hole, so if you're using 3mm rod instead of the tamiya screw pins, you can pin the rod in the hub instead.. that'll help that. The position of the ballstud means the upper control arm runs out of pivot room, causing a rapid rise in spring rate. (Read: causes the car to spin out) And the bearing fit is sloppy versus the tamiya plastic parts.

The car tracked better, and had fewer handling quirks with the stock rear hubs installed.
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Old 10-04-2017, 03:57 PM   #29666
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For my M-05 v1 & v2 chassis, I hold the battery pack in place with one of the 'L' shaped plastic holders from the 50793 M-03 C-parts, and an end brace from the 53346 quick release battery holder. Unconventional, but the battery stays in place well, with no tape needed!


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Old 10-04-2017, 04:23 PM   #29667
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Interesting, I may just look into that.

The Yeah Racing steering set arrived today, install time I guess! Though once more I wonder if I should try painting it black first....... eh. Should probably have "etching" paint for that. My car has this nice black & red theme going inside and out, with almost everything else black but body, parts of electronics (including the entire motor) and of course transponder are red, and adding blue parts... gah
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Old 10-05-2017, 05:06 AM   #29668
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The front uprights arrived today as well, so now both those and the steering are in place. There's some slop with the steering assembly, but then again there was with plastic too. The combination did throw off front toe by quite a bit, though. Lengthened the rods by a good 2mm and it's still maybe a touch too much. But this bring to mind another thing I though of while building - the stock ball studs really should have hex heads. Having to pop a stud out if you need to readjust a link is a real pain in the butt and causes unnecessary wear.

So, ready for the race now with this car. Hopefully I can at least avoid a DNF
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:25 PM   #29669
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Finally got to drive my M07 this evening. Itís completely awesome. Solid, consistent and still makes mini noises.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:37 AM   #29670
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I need to get my M07 setup... I might actually use it in a race this weekend.
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