u should be able to find TCS rules on the Tamiya website.

Depends on what you mean by "regular size". But ya, if you can't fit them into the chassis then you can certainly put them on top. The Suzuki has a little more space inside so you'll probably be able to get one if not all your electronics inside. Your basic Futaba S3003 servo is just fine and cheap too. I've been using that for awhile now and it works great. We are running stick packs and that's what the m-chassis allows.You can fit the side by sides but you'll have to grind out the oval space for the battery and make it more rectangular.

Thanks again for all the help. My son has gotten interested in this, and to be honest so have I. It seems like a great inexpensive class to race in, that is compared to the classes we already race.

Kevin

In the December RC World (Japanese Magazine), there is a whole section dedicated to minis... all the different chassis and bodies......


there were a couple that looked really cool, but I can't read Japanese so I can't get the names

one was a Yokomo MR4SD Mini, one was a rear-engine rear drive Sanio RR Type UL (on page 69), and some others.... a WHOLE bunch

Here are a couple

That ferrari body looks amazing :nod:

I REALLY Like that rear-engined, rear drive car with the center-mounted batteries....

it looks a bit like a team associated rc10 DS, but smaller.

what is the difference if i will screw into the upper hole instead on the lower hole... is there any difference.. see pix.. the black is in the lower hole and the aluminum one is screwed in into the higher hole... what's will be the differences..??

The Ackerman will change.

The Ackerman angle is the difference between the inside and outside wheels when you turn.

Look here and here

About Atlas Beat
 

Tony,

How about the final ratio of this ATlas Beat kit ?
Can we get more than 9.xx final ratio (with 64p) ?
What's the max. final ratio ?
I see Genetics max. only 7.xx .... It means, 'can't use modified motor (8T, 7T).

I hope Atlas is better.
Thanks for the info.

Here's the ratio chart, straight out of the manual..

Thanks Tony

Cheers,

So which one is better the front or the back hole?

The "Front" holes will increase the ackerman (turns the inner wheel much more than the outer wheel in a turn), making your car much more aggressive in the corners although it can result in scrubbed speed or even rollovers if you're not careful. Many winning TC setups have the ackerman this way.

The "Rear" holes will make the wheels turn a little more proportional, allowing higher speed in the corners but giving you less turning ability.

It's all down to driving style, really, if you are the throttle/brake masher who turns at the last second and doesn't care rolling over at high speeds (M04 esp.), then use the front. With this you might use less traction compound to avoid the rollovers.

For the smoother, more neutral driver who takes corners a bit less aggressively and maintains speed through the whole turn you'd probably be better with the back holes.

just wanna share
 

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5.../suzuki021.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5.../suzuki010.jpg


dampers 2 orings rear 1 front
tamiya yellow rear pink front springs
mid stabilizer rear mid front
medium foam inserts
clod stock johnsons motor