I use a tiny bit to keep the comm clean....I put a drop or 2 on...run the motor at 3 volts, then spray out and relube the bushings. For racing it tends to dirty up the comm, which is a silver can killer.

As far as Tribo...that's really really hard to get...I am 99% sure they don't make it any more. I like Zubaks..

Suggestion on how to make the M-05 runs well:

Lock/seal up your M-03 somewhere, just leave yourself and M-05 together... Sure "you guys" will work it out...:lol:

I finally get my ABC Genetic dial in after I put aside my M-04.... :tire::tire:

I want to change my fixed camber links to threaded turnbuckles . I can't find any online that are small enough. What size do you use? Duratrax makes a 3x18 but thats to long. Also can somebody post some links. I give up on the hunt.

I found the discussions about the handling problems to the M05 interesting.

could someone explain the difference betwen the m03 and the m05 in these situasjons.

1. pulling of the line.
m03:
m05:
2. brakes for turn. while turning perhaps
m03:
m05:
3. acellerates out of the turn. how do you spell it again :P
m03:
m05:

annything else?

Calvin,

I am not sure I can get the Nulon product you described, but this appears to be a similar product:

Liquid Wrench
11oz. Heavy Duty Silicone Spray Lubricant

(I would include a link, but I do not have enough posts yet to do so, just drop the description in google)

So basically, whereever the manual calls for grease, just use the spray instead? (Except for the in the gear diff, of course) Dog bones (drive shaft), gears, etc?

Thanks again for the help, I think Im starting assembly tonight.

Tristar Racing,

I use the silicone lubricant on the gears and the chassis. I do not use the kit supplied dogbones, I purchase the mini universals which are a way better option. I use Tamiya anti-wear grease on the ends, liberal amount and the same for the rear axles.

If I fit a gear diff I apply a small amount of anti-wear grease to the internal gears. If using a gear diff I normally turn it into a spool by gluing it up with super glue.

On a TAO-3 ball diff I use the Tamiya anti-wear grease on the balls and diff plates and black grease on the thrust washer.

Regards,

Calvin.

I have really be trying to understand this, but I still cannot, why do people lock up the gear diff? If it is locked up, wont that keep the inner and outer drive wheels rotating at the same speed when cornering, causing a hopping-like condition? How is this beneficial?

Thanks

Spool
 

Based on my understanding of differentials in general, not necessarily RC specific, is the spool does indeed eliminate all differential action. The advantage is that both wheels rotate equally, putting the power down evenly. Nice straight, powerful acceleration. But, it sacrifices corning.
I believe they are commonly used in drag racing and drifting.
Someone with more RC experience might have a better answer specific to the hobby.

With minis you'll be spinning the drive wheels on power anyway, gear diff, ball diff, or spool.

which mini should i buy unlimited money unlimited time to build just want a good one for the money any sugestions ...own a hobby shop nedd the best bang for my buck have a brushless sys thts 1/10 scale will it fit?

yeah, pretty much any brushless will fit, too much and you'll melt it though.

Best Mini are ABC Genetic and Atomic VM II.

To those that use the silicone spray on their gears and other items, I picked up a can of CRC heavy duty silicone munti-use lubricant. Has anyone tried the stuff? Sorry for revisiting the subject, but I would be bummed if I messed up gears and other parts by using it.

Thanks

Nope, the CRC silicone spray is great stuff. I use it in the gearbox, but not in the diff. Keeps everything smooth and quiet. Just use a little shot and you're good to go.

Jim

Due for release 22nd October...

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...i/abarth02.jpg