Easier to drive, more confident in corners, no noticeable loss of steering.

I always run the diff very loose in RWD cars. They tend to turn into drift cars when they have a tighter diff. There's AW grease in them, but only enough to coat everything.

I think if I chose to run RWD again, I'd likely get an M06 and run an aftermarket gear diff, or maybe a ball diff with ceramic balls.

Spent 2 hours for shimming these slops (arms, Upper arms, lingkage etc) :flaming:
I think tamiya should remake formula for plastic casting material. they're really bad.
anyone have experience boiling these plastic, people say it will make it more durable ?

Shimming the slop out makes most most Minis virtually undriveable.....

The only places that you really need to shim are the steering posts and between the hex and the bearings on the 4 axles.

I can't speak to the M04, when I had one 10 years ago.. I had no idea how to set up an RC car.

I do however have a lot of experience with racing the M06. In my opinion, common mistake is a loose diff. It is not an F1 car.

I have always ran the M05 ball diff and on asphalt I had the diff screw backed out somewhere between 1/4 and 1/8 if memory serves me well.

I presently run on high grip carpet the tighter the diff, the higher the corner speed.

This week I started to prepare the car for upcoming tcs race and on the hairpin I could hear the car diffing out a little bit, so I tightened the diff even further and wheel spin was gone.

If you ever do decide to pick on up, PM me for tips.. will gladly help out. ;)

I have an M-05 Tamiya Ball Diff question.
Is it possible to purchase the Tamiya Ball Diff Gear by itself instead of buying the whole set again?
I accidentally ruined mine and I don't want to buy the whole set again...
Thank you in advance...

EDIT:

Found it...
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=8765

thank you...

Does anyone know how much longer to build the dampers when using the optional outer lower mounting points? I build to 55mm normally.

Our local Tamiyacup organization was very quick with their reply to the Yeah racing diff:
https://sites.google.com/site/betami...greglementmini

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...8-yeah-38t.jpg

Huh, I didn't realise it had a different number of teeth. Has anyone tried it out and checked how well it meshes?

If anyone is around the Carolinas this weekend and wants to race their minis there will be a great race at Bush River Raceway in Columbia, SC

https://www.facebook.com/events/978761328896357??ti=ia

Hmm, even I didn't pick that up. So essentially that makes it completely useless in 99% of competition! That's a real dumb arse decision from Yeah Racing and they've effectively reduced their potential market to zero.

Oh, that is interesting, did also not spot the difference!:D

@ Erik Jan: Are you allowed to use any aftermarket diffs in the cup?
Just asking, because there is a special prohibition for the Yeah racing one...

I wonder how the gear mesh is going to work. Did they just make the teeth a little longer? I'm guessing these will get banned from a lot of race series, but who's gonna do the tech?

Anyway, about that shock length question...

Hi Jim,
last carpet race I ran outside front and rear, Front shocks with long ball pin 64mm from outside to outside measured, rear 60mm with short ball pin.
Not sure, if I used longer piston rods in rear to achieve the 60mm, though.:lol:

Br,
Matthias