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Old 01-23-2017 | 02:57 PM
  #28621  
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Originally Posted by Raman
Can someone direct me to a link or post on how to make the TA03 ball diff as tight as possible.

I have tightened mine as far as it will go and secured it with thread lock. I'd like to have it even tighter of possible.

I have done my research and have treid some suggested tricks but nothing I have tried has made it tighter so far.
I have added 2x 0.2mm shims to my ta03 ball diff and it was tight ,almost spool and it doesn't came to loose again😀
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Old 01-24-2017 | 08:33 AM
  #28622  
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For those of you racing on the new black ozite carpet using a gear diff, what weight diff fluid are you using?
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Old 01-24-2017 | 12:01 PM
  #28623  
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Originally Posted by kytr8matic
I have added 2x 0.2mm shims to my ta03 ball diff and it was tight ,almost spool and it doesn't came to loose again😀
Where are you putting the shims?
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Old 01-26-2017 | 03:54 PM
  #28624  
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Initial D - Honda S2000 of Dr. Toshiya Joushima on an M05 chassis.





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Old 01-26-2017 | 04:42 PM
  #28625  
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The Hachiroku looks good! but that S2K.. WTF!!
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Old 01-26-2017 | 05:02 PM
  #28626  
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That's the best I could do to turn a Mazda MX5 into a Honda S2000
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Old 01-26-2017 | 06:50 PM
  #28627  
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I like it
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Old 01-27-2017 | 04:07 PM
  #28628  
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Originally Posted by Raman
Where are you putting the shims?
I put the shims right under the screw to tighten the diff..
So, what i did is open the diff remove the screw, insert shims and put it back again
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Old 01-27-2017 | 05:07 PM
  #28629  
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i wish Tamiya would make a New Ford Fiesta ST body....for the M05
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Old 01-28-2017 | 06:46 AM
  #28630  
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Originally Posted by TENCHO
i wish Tamiya would make a New Ford Fiesta ST body....for the M05
Agree.. i have the real car of mk7 fiesta, been searching online for scale ford fiesta m chassis body.. no results 😖😖😖 other brand make the body just look alike, the exact same detail body that i've found just hpi wr8 body (1/8) and rs micro (1/24)
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Old 01-29-2017 | 06:25 PM
  #28631  
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I just installed the adjustable upper links and M05ra hubs and knuckles on the front of my car. I am now getting some serious bump steer. Like 5 degrees out when extended to 5 degrees in when compressed. I can't figure out how to get rid of it. It's causing a major issue with handling. The le car is unpredictable and very squirmy.
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Old 01-29-2017 | 06:33 PM
  #28632  
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Ok... I guess you'll have to take it off...
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Old 01-29-2017 | 07:20 PM
  #28633  
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professor, did a quick internet search and found your answer on the tamiyaclub.com website. Here is a link - http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...d-info-please/

Basically you need to go with a longer ball connector/stud on the steering knuckle. According to the post you need Tamiya part number 19805825.

Check out this picture and you will see the longer ball stud which is a brass piece

https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=92231

=========

Bump steer is usually caused when the steering turnbuckles change at a different rate/angle when compared to the front a-arms. Adjusting the height of the ball stud on the steering knuckle should help alleviate/lessen the excessive bump steer.
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Old 01-29-2017 | 07:31 PM
  #28634  
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Originally Posted by theproffesor
I just installed the adjustable upper links and M05ra hubs and knuckles on the front of my car. I am now getting some serious bump steer. Like 5 degrees out when extended to 5 degrees in when compressed. I can't figure out how to get rid of it. It's causing a major issue with handling. The le car is unpredictable and very squirmy.
Which holes did you use to mount the rally hubs? Is there a particular reason you went for the rally ones? You need to use extra long ball studs on the knuckles when using the raised ride height setting on the rally hubs.

Edit: Looks like IndyRC beat me to it
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Old 02-06-2017 | 11:45 AM
  #28635  
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Could someone recommend a Savox servo for the M05 that's less than 50 bucks?
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