One of our top drivers runs the R1-wurks motor in his mini. I like the Trinity Killshot myself. ...good infor OSherman (thanks). ...

The Orca/Hobbywing style 380 in a 540 cans are pretty much heat sinks in themselves. There's a lot of aluminum in those things and they're finned, too! The one time I found a noticeable difference was in my M04. The RWD generated more grip, stressed the motor more and therefore, more heat.

Why point the fan at the end cap? Just the way it worked out with the parts I had.

The WCICS rules States that no cutting/grinding/milling can be done to the chassis, or else I'd cut a 30mm hole in the top of the chassis and Mount a fan such that it blows air onto the side of the motor.

I think there was a heatsink Jim linked to, maybe a dozen pages back, which required the user to hack a hole into the tub - illegal but kinda cool.

Having a fan hanging from the side, sounds like a recipe for carnage. How about putting a fan on the motor mount? That sounds like a more durable idea.

yeah, too bad as that would be the ideal design

My fan is w/in the front wheel and battery, i'd have to get t-boned at just the right angle to hit the fan...but at that point the race would be pretty much over anyway. Not really worried about that. What do you mean by putting the fan on the motor mount? The motor mounts inside the chassis... would like to know what your thinking?

Raced at my local track tonight. What a difference to the other one. Super tight and small. Car handled pretty well other than it is pretty twitchy. Going down the straight and all of a sudden it would be darting about with the slightest of inputs.

I tried turning down steering response on my tx and in the last rate reduced toe out on the front to try and tame it.

Thoughts?

Just a thought, and I'm better at literary imagery than I am at photoshop or MS paint - so here it goes....

The aluminum motor mount typically has a pair of heatsink bars that are placed on top of the M05 frame, under the steering arm. They are finned (and typically anodized blue). My idea is to have a fan mounted above these heatsink bars, blowing cold air directly onto them. In essence, a radiator would be created, where the fan cools the radiator, instead of directly blowing onto the motor. Being mounted to the heatsink bars on the frame, the fan would be protected from hits to the side.

Just a thought. But in my experience with running 21.5 and the WCICS spec motor, heat has never been a major compromising issue - even when running the plastic motor mount.

does anyone know if the big bore m-chassis shocks use a standard spring, or does it need a special spring?

ah, got it! ...yeah, I wouldn't consider heat an issue so much as am at the point where I am trying to get every last ounce of speed and performance from my mini i can

Gave my twitchiness issue some though overnight. Figured the front end was where I should be looking for answers and thought a bit more castor could do the trick and also a bit more travel wouldn't go amiss either. So I raised the front some (1mm) and it sits a bit higher than the rear now. Another thing was that it looked like the shell was making too much contact with the tyres so I raised that up one hole on the posts.



That whole shell is backed in white, the black is from the tyre rub.

Does enough heat actually migrate up through those things to make a difference? I thought they seemed extraneous, but I use em, just in case.

Regular springs!

Drove to Edmonton on Friday to run at one of their club events. Took my mini, usgt car, and tc stock car. Was surprised to see that my mini was competitive with the other fast guys. I think the top 4 guys in the amain had the same fast lap times. Learned that I have to reglue the shoulders every few runs. Didn't have any traction rolls, but the inside wheels lift up a bit higher every run that you don't reglue.

coolness!! thanks!

Short of regluing, just cleaning the track crud off the tires every run will do wonders, as well. I know when I run at Carcar (Calgary) the track is often so heavily soaked with traction compound and dissolved tire goo, that the glue get completely coated with it.

If you clean and find the glue gone, then it's definitely time.

As I mentioned before I put 2 extra shims in the diff and tightened it fairly tight. This is what it sounds like now just under power.

https://youtu.be/b8qHBdhH-ig

Is that normal? Sounds awful to me