Yeah, the m-chassis needs oil dampers and ball diffs more so than just bearings. Bearings-only is almost useless imho if rest is stock..

I respectfully disagree. :D

Ran an almost bone stock M03 last season and had a great time. Didn't run up front but had super tight battles with more guys. Tried it only to prove a point than anyone can get into Mini racing and you don't need the best to compete and have a great time. Working on your driving is more important.

Bearings is just a good idea from heating up those bushings and melting your plastic chassis.

Other than that, friction dampers work, just less steering but you can drive around that. All plastic stock parts are fine, just crash less. Stock gear diff extra washer worked fine. Dogbone outdrives fine.

I think only about 0.2-0.4 seconds slower on a 10 second track indoor ozite mid grip.

Maybe an extra $50 could make your M chassis more competitive. But the rest is bling and completely up to you.

Just have fun,

Ivan

Those fiction dampers with rubber sleeves sort of work, but the ones that come with the M05's kit are so loose they are running on springs. There is no friction.. Sure you can add a plastic film inside to give it some friction, but then it's no longer stock.

Sorry I fibbed.

The stock friction dampers yes come with that rubber sleeve but I didn't use it. So no dampening at all. Also, I cut the stock silver springs one ring short to make around 4-5 ride height with the help of the little horseshoe ride height spacers.

My bad. So the shocks were actually completely like pogo sticks.

Driving style has to completely change by hitting brakes hard, turn, full throttle out of corner but must be timed well to turn decent. Challenging but fun.

So I'm assuming would work for the M05 too.

Ivan

Huh, we should call that the bosouzoku setup. :D

I still have stock Diff in mine......... but then again no where around here races on-road, let alone M-class

I struggled to make my M03 work with the stock dampers, and I even tried using the TRF springs. It was traction roll city on a low to medium grip asphalt track. The only race that felt drivable was when the rain came in and the track got slightly damp. You're a much better driver than I am, so while it may technically be possible to make a bone stock car work, I don't think it's practical to suggest it to beginners, when a few dollars on a couple of select parts would make the whole process easier and more enjoyable. I'd at least recommend investing in tires and some kind of oil damper, even if it's the plastic ones.

Maybe the spec 13T Hobbywing system we use just emphasises the need for a good setup compared to the power plant you were using however.

I see your point of view and agree with it actually specifically to spending a few dollars more to make it more enjoyable for beginners like for plastic oil dampers, good tires (our neck of the woods we mostly use Tamiya S grips and I think they work everywhere), good servo saver and maybe aluminum for some steering parts for durability but that's really all. I only disagree with anyone saying a stock mini is not competitive and you need to speed money to make a stock car competitive.

But on the other side of the coin I think if you want to learn about using brakes properly, stock shocks would be a good way to learn it and would definitely help your driving when you progress to driving faster cars like modified Touring Car or 12th scale. There is so much understeer it's not funny. Trail braking I think is the term. Hard skill to master.

For any traction roll issues on carpet, it's glue the edge of the front tires. Also, I think one of the biggest mindset changes in the beginning of mini racing for me was always trying to get front grip without traction rolling. Now, I consider taking rear grip away, which in turn, increases front grip. With limited asphalt experience, I've assumed that generally there's a bit less grip outdoors so always interested what outdoor setup differences are. Maybe a damp track even less traction so less traction rolling? And your 13t HW brushless combo is a bit more powerful than our 2200kv combo but I think being on a higher grip indoor carpet setup is just as important also.

This year some of the clubs in our 8 race series have the new CRC black high grip carpet. I'll have my first test on it in 2 weeks for the first time (first race of the indoor season and haven't raced in 5 months) and I'm going to use my same setup 7 year old minimally maintained but super competitive M03. Will be interesting.

Ivan

Which is fine for just bashing around, but a little LSD action does wonders to reduce the energy wasted to propel your car forward through turns. Which I'm sure you already know, just noting for some new folks that might not.

0.2-0.4 seconds slower per lap over a 30 lap run is not a good time. imo

So finishing 6 secs (same lap) to 12 secs (1 lap and 2 secs) behind the fastest car in an almost bone stock M03 against many suped up M05's isn't a good time? But I do admit if my trail braking was better, I would probably drop another 0.1 seconds. Just means I really need to work on my driving! :D

Ivan

Hi Guys,

well, I thought I was gonna give this mini class a try but it just didn't work out. So gonna sell it:

M05 Version 2 Pro (opened, but not built...I just took a sneak peek of the instruction)
Miata body
Suzuki Swift body
Reedy Sonic 21T brushless motor (brand new, the one specified by TCS rule)
2 pairs of new Super grip 60D Tires

PM me with your best offer. Thanks

Steve

Just curious, how did it not work out if you haven't even run the car yet?

Maybe not enough interest to gather enough people to race?

Steve, are you the Steve in Temple City?

Is anyone know the length (in mm) 3 racing m05 damper set? Is it 50mm?
At other website said 13mm.. i don't understand the measurement