that would be it... thank you, sir!!

I also cut my gears, but did not take that much off the gears: I only did cut(up to 1/8th of an inch) the corners of the smallest gears, and the corners that came close to the gearbox....I also shimmed the gears a little , so they don't move too much sideways... It gave me some more power, but then again I started running my lightest tires up front at the same time, so I guess some of the gains was because of the light tires...

Heh, good observation!

I looked at my new S-grips mounted on SPICE dish wheels, and they are flat.
I looked at my new M-grips mounted on SPICE dish wheels, and they are slightly concave.

Interesting. I'll see how they work out when we race each other this weekend.

That is interesting. Could it be because the compounds are different? EG: S Grips are made of mush. Wonder how Type As would look, given they're a belted tire. Thought about the tires sitting differently on different brands of wheel. Could it be the bead not seating properly on one or the other? All the M chassis wheels should be the same diameter, but may vary in subtle ways.

The bead seat diameter on the white sweeps is larger than the tamiya by an appreciable amount. The sweeps are narrower, too. Also, the bottom of the beat seat groove is Angier on the tamiya and ride wheels, but flat on the sweeps.
In the photo that I posted earlier, the slicks ate type A belted. The one on the sweep wheel is concave, the one on the tamiya wheel is convex.
The m-grip on the sweep wheel is flat, and the m-grip on the tamiya wheel is rounded. I was using 60d hard inserts

Also, I ran the car last night with the yr long span conversion and I did not like it. I will have to work on the setup. The car was great in Edmonton on Friday with the stock arms. I'm thinking of no longer running mini at this weekends wcics race now, since the car was no longer good. Not ruining the mini is ok....it will allow me to focus on WGT, Touring Stock, and VTA

Thanks for the tire info. It's good stuff.

Something I've wondered about is whether the Yeah Racing suspension kit really fits in with the spirit of the rules of the WCICS series. (I authored the mini rules for several years) The basic idea was that any hop ups were allowed, as long as there was a Tamiya equivalent. A few exceptions got made, as in the case of differentials, because people could alter their Tamiya diffs anyway. In this case, however, the basic geometry of the car is being changed. I doubt we'll see a ban, but it's an interesting question.

No longer good?!??! I'm gonna be struggling with my friction damper M03 to make the A Main in probably a D Main deep field. And don't even get me started on how it's affecting my other 7 classes I'm running. :rolleyes:

Ivan

That's your choice to run a friction damper m03. Whatever floats your boat. :) I have more fun when my cars are working good. I have less fun when my cars are working bad.

Monkeyracing, I agree about the yr kit. I like experimenting, and for $67, it was a fun experiment.

Look on the bright side. Since there's nothing to adjust, you won't lose much additional time wrenching in the pits. :lol:

Actually a couple of the screws that hold the suspension and one of the wheel nuts keeps coming loose. Have to remember to check that once in a while. So that's a bit of work. :p

Ivan

How well does the MX5 body perform on a M05ver2? I thought I saw someone put a rear wing on one.

Any thoughts?

im painting mine tonite for this weekends TCS reguionals...

i predict good results, because it just looks so damn cool..

No, no ...don't give up! That's half the fun in my opinion. My first races I was in dead last and my car sucked. Looking back, its been a lot of fun to get a competitive setup. It didn't cost much, mostly just trial and error. Do you have a track you can practice at? My practice sessions were the most help.

OSherman ...-show us your car, would love to see your "damn cool" paint job.

I got out for some practice laps yesterday at a local track.
I specifically tested the fan and fan placement and what effect it had on motor temps.

Here is what I did to test and get my results.
Kept my motor timing at full advance for all testing. (I usually run between 75% to 100% timing advance depending on the track layout). For this test I just kept it at 100% timing since the track had some long straights.

The track was an indoor asphalt track. I ran my car for 6 minutes took a temp check using temp gauge measuring at the can (not endbell). Then let car completely cool and ran it again for another 6 minute run and re-took temps to be sure my first measurements were correct.. After that I re-charged battery and adjusted fan for another 2 6min runs taking measurements after each run.

Here is what I got:
No Fan: 160-163*
Fan Mounted Horizontally Aimed Down at Motor (typical fan mount location: 150-155*
Fan Mounted at Angle Aimed Towards Motor: 142-148*

Here is the fan mount that I am using which seems ideal, I went back to my original angled design. This photos is older, I actually made a nicer piece of metal that is cut straight and beveled on the edges (see attached photo of the basic design).