-agreed/and what I thought.
I must have mis-understood your first post.

Is there a particular reason to choose the Manta Ray diff over the TA03 one? The latter one is lighter.

You guys might be a bit biased, or not, but would you prefer a tt01/02 or a m05 for a car park basher?

I have both. I recommend you get an oil gear diff instead unless you are under some rules not to. :smile: I broke 2 MantaRay diffs already. TA03 is okay until the little nut starts loosening on its own and require re-tightening.

It really depends on what your future plans are.
Actually just running around a parking lot track that you made up by yourself will
get boring real quick. You may want to look around where ever you are for an organized race track. And go watch them to see what they're running. If they have a mini class definatly go for the m05. Actually both the tt's are beasts to race at the beginners level in an organized track. Unless they have the funster rules in which case they basically run the tt's stock and you can be competitive then. Where are you located???

Lots and personal tracks are good for testing setups, so the car will be ready for a race meet. Bashing around with no purpose gets boring quick....

Looking to get mini racing in a few months. Is the v2 r worth the almost $200 price difference from the v2 pro? what are the biggest differences besides the shocks and DCJ's?

They're essentially the same diff, in a slightly different package. The TA03 diff, tightened down, with a little anti-wear grease and a dab of loc-tite on the adjuster screw will do what 90% of us want it to do.

Easier to find, too.

Got a chance to race mini the last couple of weeks. Along with my daughter. Her car was awful so ended up rebuilding a lot of the front end. Her tx has buttons right under her left hand that mess up all the settings. I've put tape over them for now.

I was in the bottom heat with her and an 8 year old girl and that was great just had to dodge them every now and again and watch the frustration of my kid not being able to get more than 20ft without crashing.

Marshalling the heat above mine the cars looked much faster than mine. Still silver can so I was thinking there might be an issue.

I got to race against those guys in the B final,avoided the first corner crash and led for 2 minutes. So can't really complain about speed. I ended up stealing second on the last corner, all of us within a second or so I think. Best race I've been in and a testament to a tight set of rules.

The TA03 diff with 1/8 balls seems to work really well.

TT02, because it handles a lot better on low grip surfaces. M05 will just spin the wheels and understeer, but the 4WD car will hook up and hang the tail out. You can build the TT02 with extra ground clearance to be a rally car, and different wheelbases and widths to allow some of the coolest Tamiya bodies to fit (Capri, Celica LB, 911 Carrera, etc).
Great site for setting up your TT02: http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html The single best improvement I made to my TT02 was putting 300k oil in the front diff as shown on that site.

The v2 R is about $200 from Tower Hobbies, so unless you can get the v2 Pro for free, the price difference isn't that much. That said, yes the main differences are the shocks and DCJs. There are a couple of other alloy parts too like the battery holders. I believe all the screws are replaced with hex machine screws as well.

There's about 4 tracks about an hour or two away. They all run mini classes. Looking at bashing around car park with my son at first. Then going from there. was thinking an off-road buggy but with summer coming up the m05 would get more use. I have 2 proper rc drift cars at the moment so was hoping to stay away from the tt's, plus with the fact I can get a proper aw11 Mr2 in mini size was making me lean that way for on road. :D

I just finished setting up my m03 on a hudy setup station, and I wonder how I was able to get around a track with no setup at all... Way too much camber(6+ degrees) under suspension compression front and rear, and negative front toe at rest, in addition to having 3/16" lcd axles not snug enough through the front 5mm bearings: great way to make my mini dart everywhere down the straight...
I fixed all these issues, and ended up with three degree front toe out, two and a half degree camber rear/three front, and no axle play through the front bearings... That should be a good starting point but , with the new crc black carpet causing extreme traction roll, I might need to rely more on CA glue than anything else.....

What axles are you running that are 3/16"? Old Losi or Assciated or...?

I'm assuming these are the Losi LCDs he keeps talking about.