If you built it with ceramic balls and Ofna diff lock lube, it should last 10000 runs or more...

Ahh, bushings. Yes, those will lock my diff too much for my application. They essentially make ball diffs into spools.

So you guys think it's the balls that are wearing out, not the bellwashers? Hummm... could be.

Get back under the bridge, Bert.

Get some cheap Yeah Racing 3mm ceramic diff balls. They positively transform the TA03 diff. You can crank it down pretty hard and it'll still be smooth.

Okay, I will give this a shot. Thanks monkeyracing and Bert. :D

My diffs only last two race days, about a dozen runs, and then the diff rings need a bit of sand paper love. Since we can run diffs from other Tamiya cars, it'd be ideal to be able to run sealed gear diffs, but :rolleyes:

Favourite diff was the 3racing one for the M05. I think I used 500K and was good for 2 years before I sold my car. Consistent and no maintenance at all. Too bad it doesn't fit the M03.

Stock gear diff with 2 extra diff rings and tightened up real good (also known as the "monkeyracing diff :D) in the M03 also works great. Had it in my almost box stock M03 for the last 3 months running almost every weekend and only had to tightened it up once only out of curiosity to see how loose the screws were and there weren't that bad. Wish I knew this 6 years ago.

The Ta03 ball diff is also pretty good. Had it my 'competitive' M03 for the last 6 years. No maintenance every but it's also it's crunchy like crazy but it still seems to work pretty good.

Just my experience,

Ivan

I know, I am about to pass your post count.....lol....That black man belongs under the bridge stuff does not work anymore...
Back to mini ball diffs: I never rebuilt my diff since 2011....It went from spool like to a decently tight diff because of the thin oil I kept shooting in the m03 gearbox to lube the gears... I don't lose any drive out of the corners, and my steering is very good....

Thanks for the input Ivan. I will see what I can do to salvage the MantaRay diff but I will be going with the MR diff next for sure. Might even drill an access hole in the chassis.

Trolls live under bridges, Bert. Trolls. Fictional monsters. I'm offended by your implication. I have absolutely no idea who you are, save for your penchant for ridiculous statements.

Of course, if you're just trolling me again, bravo.

Ha! ...I wish I had more time to drive my RC cars ...I will only drive mine on a true RC track so it makes it a bit difficult to get track time when our club isn't racing. If only I had my own track like you!!! :)

I also wish I had my own track... I am currently working double on Saturdays and Sundays... It is tough to constantly upgrade, and prep my mini, and have zero track time...

I can definitely understand that because when I use to live in an apartment way back when with my wife and racing on weekends there weren't many places I could really drive or test my RC cars besides a track. One time I was driving my RC car in the parking structure of my apartment and got kicked out. lol

I finally got around to start my BSR M-Rage. It's not done yet but a quick picture.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...e34285-bsr.jpg

Since the easy to twist lower simulated-CF FRP deck :rolleyes: has the 6 sub-c cutouts I think I'm just going to run my old NiCd's on this car. If the thing drives well I might get a nicer ESC and motor for it, but considering the price and quality of the thing, the 101BK and silver can is plenty for now. :lol:

If the thing proves unworthy, I'm going to yank off my new R614FF-E and S6070 off of it and get a TOP Racing pancar or something else.

Isn't there a cf lower deck for this car? On the way?

No idea.. I don't intend to spend much money on the car, just wanted to see what a $75 double deck chassis was like. :lol: