Again, here's the choices.

1. Cheap, hackable silver cans. These caused trouble, sadly.
2. $30-$40 spec Hobbywing style cans, usable year after year.
(2.5 Whatever the 16T cans were that Tamiya was using as handouts.)
3. $80-$100 Motor of the moment, likely to be replaced next year.

I hear your argument and feel your pain.. Fortunately/Unfortunately I can vouch and say first-hand that all these changes are because of.... US... The racers.

Fred at Tamiya actually listens to the 'majority' (not just us Californians, but from all the TCS Regional hosts/participants who speak up) and makes his decision accordingly...

So in an essence, yes, next year most likely something will change because we the racers complain... Pick ANY one of those choices and some of us will not like it... We will complain, things will change..

I think if you take one that no one is familiar with very much it will be the most level playing field possible.. Will some figure it out and put on a clinic? Yes absolutely.

Do know that REEDY is well established and available all across the globe...


$0.02

#4 (which should have been #1 way back when we were first talking about this): Any ROAR-approved 21.5, with a reasonable RPM limit measured at the tire.

This would mean that no one needs to buy another motor. That's great for the racers, bad for the motor manufacturers. I know which side I lean toward.

I let some of my friends know about the rule change for the mini class. As one gentlemen, who is a veteran of many, many years of TCS races, said, "That's one way to kill a class."

OSherman,
What you say is totally valid. I think the current rule actually makes a lot of sense, 1 motor that everyone uses ...makes the class a level playing field. I totally get that and its a good rule.

My initial annoyance (and probably others) was that this rule came out after we all purchased new 21.5t brushless motors last year and we now have to go out and purchase new motors this coming year.

Fortunately my season doesn't start up 'til March/April so I have time to get the new motor, ..doesn't have to be done today. Also I am going to wait to see what my local club rules on this ...we typically follow TCS rules, but still no need to do anything immediately.

--------
Anyone want to buy a used RevTech Killshot 21.5t ? -PM me! Its a good motor and ran in the tops spots at our club for the 2015 season! :)

..One more thought on this,
I'd imagine Tamiya made some kind of deal w/ Team Assosciated on this one? I think it would be great if TA could give us a discount if we present our club name, or ROAR membership # or something?? I wouldn't suggest such a thing had they introduced this motor rule last year (going from silver can). But a discount would certainly sweeten the new rule acceptance.

How about if Tamiya buys 100+ motors at cost and resells them to us just above cost?

Yeah, like that's really going to happen!

I don't think that was a smart move on the motor Issue. There are other motors that are only 35.00. So much for buying a kit and just racing it right of the box. Why pick on mini
Class Only what about the other classes. Not fair.

Hi all,
I'm having a frustrating time building these cva super mini shocks that come with the mo-5 pro ver2. the shocks shafts press into the oil seal. i'm used to touring car shocks and do not have a problem building them.. I normally build shocks that have a couple mm of rebound but with the cva shocks I end up with them rebounding all the way out or so hard they do not want to compress and rebound like they are spring loaded. are they supposed to rebound all the way out? how do I stop the shafts from pushing on the oil seal? should I put the shock limiters on the outside of the shock instead of inside the shock body? also they are a bitch to get all the air out. maybe I should drill holes in the cap and not even use the oil seal.

Vote with your feet.
 

Look we do not have to put up with this BS. this is the class that got me interested with Tamiya years ago. What interested me was the low entry cost and the TCS races, one of which used to be held about 90 minutes from me. Low turnout will be the only way to assure the changes are done with cost in mind. I am just getting back into racing after taking a few years off, the TCS was the first thing I looked into. Directly from the Tamiya website "The Mini class is Tamiya’s most popular in the TCS series. It’s the perfect class to enjoy fun close quarter racing with Tamiya’s simple to tune FWD or RWD M-chassis cars. The class is ideal for intermediate to advanced skill level participants. The class motor rules are kept simple with budget minded racers in mind." How does a $100 motor follow this concept?

This news makes me not real excited about the whole TCS thing. The "local track" no longer has onroad, my local shop doesn't even stock Tamiya, the thing is I still have a few cars, electronics and cheap radio from years ago. YEARS AGO THINGS WERE NOT PERFECT.. There were the battery wars and the guys who would buy dozens of silver cans to find "the best one". It didn't bother me then as I didn't have the funds to play that game. It didn't bother me that I had no chance to get to the A-main because it was a cheap fun class that I could afford to run. I think this class brought more "new blood" into the hobby than anything I have seen. This change starts to make this a costly class how does this change grow and advance the hobby? I just don't get it.

How about just adding A ROAR APPROVED BRUSHLESS OPTION. I can do that for $60-80 for new ESC and motor!

The closest TCS site is now about 2.5 hours away, this is still a doable trip, but I will be voting with my feet.

Jon
Madison WI

If you drill a 1mm hole in the cap, BEFORE ASSEMBLY, it will allow the bladder to flex and eliminate rebound.

Big thanks to Bob (Granpa) for this tip!

Drilling the cap is illegal for TCS I seem to remember though.

TakAchance - I'm with you on the good ol' cheap fun concept of m-chassis.

solardragon- The rebound is pretty nasty on these CVA's on mine too, but they still work fairly well.

thx sakadachi. may I should put a limiter on the shaft outside the shock body?