Programming problems with the TEU-101BK
 

I am having problems programming my TEU-101BK ESC (Tamiya).

When I start it, the light flashes twice and when I click on the setup, then the light flashes non-stop.

What should I do? Is it because I have a old batterie (1500mah NiCd)?

Thanks... but I was asking what the difference between the M03 and the M04... not the difference between M04m and M04L

anybody?

M03=FWD M04=RWD
Is that what you wanted to know? I don't think TAMIYA makes Alfa or Beetle in M03, only on M04s.
falconcg, have you got instracion? It's been long time since I used them but I think you:
1. turn radio on
2. turn car on
3. press set up button once with out throttle (light flush)
4. full throttle and press button again (light flush differently)
5. full brake and press button again.
6. switch off car or just drive away.

I think there are plans to have races at PS1 next year since the track is really suited for smaller sized rc. Hopefully we can meet again there.

Hey GEO, you forgot the TIR track, Best for mini!!!

The M-04's components are much lower than the 03's. Since the motor is mounted in the rear, that leaves room in the front for the servo to be mounted within the body pointing down, not mounted on top pointing forward.

The design does look much cleaner and lower than the M-03, and in terms of performance, mine basically acts like a touring car with 2WD, but strictly indoors on carpet. Outdoors it can be a handful if it's not a decent surface and you're heavy on the throttle.

Since everything's so low, it also allows for more sportier bodies (Miata, for example) to be mounted.

Diff question
 

Hey all, I broke down and got a mini. I got the m-03m and something is wrong with the diff. The drive train is free and smooth but the diff action is chunky. Let me elaborate. Take the diff out of the car, insert outdrives, smooth as silk. Put diff in car, tighten chassis halves, and the diff is nearly locked up. Loosen the chassis screws a bit and there is some diff action but it is not great. Looking for thoughts and suggestions.


Now that I have typed this, I have a funny feeling one of the case bearings to support the outdrives isn't seated completely. I'll check tonight.

Fraz - Take your chassis halves apart and really press your diff output bearings into the chassis halves. They can take a bit of force to make them seat all the way in. I bet thats it.

Thanks H I but I have tried everything in the manual and the ESC still doesn't work. The light flashes non-stop even when finished programming. Maybe the ESC is defective or something like that. I'll try to get a hand on another cyclone (that's what I have in my FK'04). Those Novaks are problem free ESCs.

shims
 

hi all, anyone know how many mm shim set i need to get rid of the slop between wheels and hub carrier? M03M. I beleive its 5mm, please corrrect if im wrong.

Also what aluminum servo stays can be used? Can I use the short ones (53596).?

Take Off TT302 is a set of 5mm ID shims. You get 10 ea. in 0.1mm, 0.2mm and 0.3mm for $5.99.

I also used the thick wheel hub crush sleeves out of Schumacher U2153 ($8.99) parts bag plus one 0.2mm shim inside each of the front and rear hubs. This makes it impossible to overtighten the wheels and bind the bearings.

I am sure Tamiya makes a crush sleeve that would work too...I just don't have them handy...lol!

Thanks but was looking for a tamiya hopup part. Something i can get locally. (Taiwan)

minimanintaiwan....use the TG10 aluminum servo posts. They are a little bit longer and will work better on the M03. if you use short ones, you will have to use spacers to fill the gaps....trust me.

see http://minirally.cool.ne.jp for a good picture

Thanks Adrian. My hunch and yours were correct. One of the bearings needed some tough love to seat properly. Now all is silky smooth.

That reminds me, I need to holler at you about a Keyence case issue.... YGPM in a couple minutes.

No problem. If you cant find what you need Take Off is a Japanese company and have distributers all over the place in your area.