Granpa

Thank you for that.

Yeah, sometimes quality control gets a little "spotty". The problem seems to be the most often encountered on the shock shafts or the piston rods as Tamiya calls them. The shafts for the 54000 shocks seem like the worst.

You don't usually have to do this, but I like to debur the threads and polish the shafts. Hardly ever have to do this, but is helpful on occasion. Chucking the shafts in a drill and using fine sandpaper on the threads and metal polish on the shaft itself seemed to help. Another area is the O-ring. For me the best one is the original clear ring, though others have a preference for other types. I was surprised at the number of people who don't bother to lube the O-ring before placing it over the shaft.

Also, zero rebound shocks seem to leak less than shocks with rebound, for obvious reasons. You can also drill a small---#60---, hole in the shock cap and that will help also. This might be illegal in some racing series though.

Sorry, just basic stuff so hope it wasn't too elementary for you. Sure see a lot of it at the track tho.

EricP

Anyone interesting in seeing any updates on this:

patorz31

I am.

Rodarbal

iTrader: (49)

I am for sure (I mentioned it briefly a few posts ago). Tower is taking orders for the Jimmy now.

jiml

iTrader: (3)

Maybe you guys can help me with this. I'm in the middle of replacing the chassis on my M-03. Regular maintenance I can handle. At the 2012 TCS race in Jackson, NJ I stripped out the ball diff. Another racer there gave me his completely built up M03 gear diff (his M03 was long gone, replaced by an M05, but he still had the diff). Problem is I have no idea how to set up the gear diff. I'm not sore what thicker or thinner oil will do for handling, and I have no idea what's in it now. Any recommendations?

I could also use help with shock oil. Springs are easy, but it's been so long since I built the shocks I forgot what I have in them.

EricP

Let me know what you want to know.

This car is pretty much a mini-TL01 with the motor behind the rear wheels and adjustable wheelbase (center section of chassis is shorter or longer and different length prop shaft comes depending on the body in kit).

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Most curious about parts shared with other models and final drive ratio.

sickboy

iTrader: (75)

Thank you for supporting local suppliers and families. It shouldnt always be about price.

EricP

Mainly the suspension arms and hubs/carriers part trees are from the M05ra kit (and the F Parts are molded in red plastic). Chassis, gears and all that jazz are different... aaaaand it uses TL01 gears #50738

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Here's something I posted on a local forum recently

"Four trips to PM (LHS) this month. Looking for parts for Tamiya, Traxxas, Associated and Axial. Total purchases, $1.56. What does this tell us?"

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Were you running the Manta Ray ball diff? Mine stripped out in like 5months too. The splines just completely broke on the left side.

I'm currently using the factory gear diff since I am on the fence not sure what to do with my M03 (to put more $ into it, or just let it be). I've read people doubled up on the shims and put AW grease inside to keep it snug. AW grease turns into liquid after a while in the diff so I am not sure if I recommend that approach or not. I would try the shim approach though.

In the mean time, I just gave my M03 some rake and it handles coming out of the turns fairly well for now. I need to order another ball diff soon.

sickboy - I wish my local brick and mortar hobby store carried more Tamiya stuff too. But I am okay with ordering online from USA stores.

You keep forgetting your wallet? (disclaimer: this is a joke)

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I noticed OmniModels is also taking orders. ETA Late July it says. I'm going to pass for now. Maybe you guys can make a tutorial on how to convert it into a road machine and I will consider it in the Fall and run my.. you guessed it.. Rover Mini body.

I went another route recently and got 2 Mini-Z (MR03-S) and bearings, tires, etc. AWESOME!

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

No real easy answers to your questions.

Setting up the gear diff really depends on the conditions of your track, what you're looking for out of your car, and how you like to drive. The short answer would be to use some anti-wear grease, more or less, and maybe shimming.

Same goes for your shocks. Put in a fair amount of testing to find out how your car reacts to changes. Try 3 hole, 40wt to get you started.

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

YGPM'd dude

filippimini

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll keep practicing and experimenting.