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Old 12-19-2011, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
only two worth doing is 4 and 5, but on 5 i wouldn't use graphite power, no point, the silicone spray is good enough

just my opinion
Graphite powered works to dry the gears so dirt will not stick to the silicone.

Number 3 is HUGE!

Here Tamiya M05 of Jilles Groskamp - setup sheet/pictures

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...C20100228.html
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by scooteracing View Post
Speaking of traditional M chassis racing, does a person just go with an m05 or maybe seek out a m03? I noticed that the older m03 is hard to find (which makes sense), but I do see some kits on ebay. Otherwise, the only m03's I see are RTR kits with a budget type radio.

I had thought that a m05 pro would be the way to go?

When I used to race 1/12 many years ago, I didn't necessarily care if I had the latest technology, just a car that was predictable. My driving for an entire 8 minutes was the real reason why I normally didn't win mains.

I thought the mini class would be a good way to race without getting too carried away, but I know that once you start racing, it can be a slippery slope.

Thanks for any advice in advance in case I let the r/c bug bite me again.
M-03 chassis parts are still pretty easy to get. The main thing is the main chassis parts, pretty much everything else is interchangable or buildable. My LHS has M-03 main chassis parts in black, silver and blue right now. I've got 2 sets as spares and they cost about $12-13 each.

If you can get a set of stock upper links for the M-03, they're bullet and idiot proof. They can be built out of turnbuckle hardware, or you can get the 3 Racing upper link kit: Its titanium and cheap. It's very easy to build the two connectors for the steering linkage out of spares as well. The lower suspension arms, gears, dampers, axles and body posts all interchange between the 03 and the 05.

The only advantage of the 05 is a tiny bit more tunability. The 03 has proven to be a true warhorse, though. Most locals here seem to be reverting to the 03.
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:50 PM
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Jim,

I agree that the MO3 parts are easy to obtain. I suppose over time they will slowly get harder to find as some have moved onto the MO5 and Tamiya will concentrate on providing spares for the MO5.

WRT to choosing between a MO3 or MO5 it comes back to what is being used at the local track. I was reasonably quick with a MO3, but personally for me I am faster with a MO5. I think both cars can be made to work very well. I believe that the MO5 is a little easier to drive for a newbie than the MO3. Having said that though, I have seen both chassis types be real PITA's to get right.

I think more are running the MO5 now than before, as most have sorted the initial teething set up problems and passing on tips to others who are changing over.

Mr RCTech,

Unfortunately some of your tips will make your car fail tech were some of us race. I still look forward to reading your hints and tricks.

Bob,

The new CVD's sound promising. I hope to hear more from you regarding durability.

Perhaps I should consider off loading my MO3 kits and spares. i have a few that are now sitting around in boxes unused.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
Graphite powered works to dry the gears so dirt will not stick to the silicone.

Number 3 is HUGE!

Here Tamiya M05 of Jilles Groskamp - setup sheet/pictures

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...C20100228.html

I dont get dirt inside my gearbox!

With proper tamiya option steering there is not need for a band, as for me it doesn't create wheel wobble

Jilles setup is only good for a event or club that doesnt have any rules in place as his car is changed so much from stock
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:14 PM
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Brad,

Jilles setup was for TITC 2010 with the old version 60D tyres. I am sure for those going to 2012 TITC it would provide a starting point, however the tyres and rims are different with 2mm off set.

I suppose the point to remember is this thread is about mini racing in general all over the world, not just where we race locally. So different countries have different options on setups.

My MO5 for TITC has had some major chopping and works very well at Whalan, however will be a different kettle of fish on a very high grip track like RC Addict Thailand. The min weight in Thailand is 1200 gms and chop and channel stuff is acceptable. I expect to make the D final easily but will be aiming for a B or C. There are some high calibre drivers attending. I thought a represntative from the Rc mini net guys would have come over for a run.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:24 PM
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are yes, i lose track of which thread i post in sometime.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
I dont get dirt inside my gearbox!

With proper tamiya option steering there is not need for a band, as for me it doesn't create wheel wobble

Jilles setup is only good for a event or club that doesnt have any rules in place as his car is changed so much from stock
The clear band I use takes the play out of the captured ball joints.
This keeps the arms sweeped back at all times due to the excessive bump steer.
I will post a picture to explain why you use it on any vehicle.

To remove bump steer, you need to angle the upper A-arm to the same
angle as the steering control arm.

I never seen this much controlled bump steer in any race vehicle before??

It is what it is...can be fixed.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Jim,

I agree that the MO3 parts are easy to obtain. I suppose over time they will slowly get harder to find as some have moved onto the MO5 and Tamiya will concentrate on providing spares for the MO5.

WRT to choosing between a MO3 or MO5 it comes back to what is being used at the local track. I was reasonably quick with a MO3, but personally for me I am faster with a MO5. I think both cars can be made to work very well. I believe that the MO5 is a little easier to drive for a newbie than the MO3. Having said that though, I have seen both chassis types be real PITA's to get right.

I think more are running the MO5 now than before, as most have sorted the initial teething set up problems and passing on tips to others who are changing over.

Mr RCTech,

Unfortunately some of your tips will make your car fail tech were some of us race. I still look forward to reading your hints and tricks.

Bob,


The new CVD's sound promising. I hope to hear more from you regarding durability.

Perhaps I should consider off loading my MO3 kits and spares. i have a few that are now sitting around in boxes unused.

Regards,

Calvin.
Bob,

Where can I find a copy of the rules you guys run?
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:38 PM
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how many of you guys that run spec 5 run with the extra metal motor heat sink and aluminum rear suspension mount....these 2 pc's seem to add a ton of weight
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:57 PM
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Who says a little extra weight is bad anyway?....
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:06 PM
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+1. Weights can make the car handle better. Nways, are you guys sold on the gear diffs? I bought a unit for myself, ended up selling it coz I had no idea regarding the requirement for 10x15x4 bearings Technically, they should be more consistent.

But do they perform much better? Still have my HEAVY TA02 ball diff installed. I have sway bars installed on both ends of the car, but seems like there's so much play (especially the rear), I doubt they're activated at all. Any inputs?

Oh, am seriously considering the Sabre Mini FD too...craving for some outlaw action You guys dictate the choice of bodyshells?




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Old 12-19-2011, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrod306 View Post
how many of you guys that run spec 5 run with the extra metal motor heat sink and aluminum rear suspension mount....these 2 pc's seem to add a ton of weight

i run the extra toe block on the rear, as for the heatsink nope. as it would look weird without a transponder mounted on it, and didnt feel like running wires all the way down the front
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by YankeeFan123 View Post
Is my asking price reasonable for this considering what I have paid for all of it? Considering that it is all lightly used and pretty brand new?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-w-extras.html

Thanks for all of your guyses input.
Anyone have any input?
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:12 AM
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it's too high my friend.
original cost of the car and parts are of no matter.
used is used as they say.

1/2 of the initial investment will be the most you can expect to get, more likely less.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
Bob,

Where can I find a copy of the rules you guys run?
The rules are on the Tamiya USA website under TCS racing. I also run at a couple of other places and the TCS rules have been pretty much adopted. The most common variation is to allow any Mini sized rim and tire.

You'll see on close examination of the rules, why we can get isolated from many places due to the restrictiveness of the rules. Personally, I like them for the most part, primarily cause it keeps costs down especially for tires.
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