295LikesTamiya mini cooper
08-13-2015 | 11:08 AM
To provide contrast, I had some first generation Orion Experience packs from 2008 that sat fully charged for six months while I was in hospital in 2010. When I got home, I discharged/charged them and they were about perfect. Internal resistance was up a few points, but still good for mini. ran em for a few years, until the cases cracked open.
08-13-2015 | 11:22 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 281
From: ontario canada
Oh, alright, I won't. This stems from getting told constantly a few years back that Reedys were awesome and I just had to get some. Well, I got some. I'm meticulous with the care of my batteries. They're never overcharged, undercharged, too hot, too cold....you get the idea. Both of my Reedys puffed and split in just over a year. Had the same thing happen with Intellect/Protek packs, except they lasted six months.
To provide contrast, I had some first generation Orion Experience packs from 2008 that sat fully charged for six months while I was in hospital in 2010. When I got home, I discharged/charged them and they were about perfect. Internal resistance was up a few points, but still good for mini. ran em for a few years, until the cases cracked open.
To provide contrast, I had some first generation Orion Experience packs from 2008 that sat fully charged for six months while I was in hospital in 2010. When I got home, I discharged/charged them and they were about perfect. Internal resistance was up a few points, but still good for mini. ran em for a few years, until the cases cracked open.
08-13-2015 | 12:21 PM
With the stock dogbones, or often with the TA03 ball diff and CVD axles, there's enough play for the axle to slip out of the outdrive cup, or the outdrive cup to slip out of the diff. Either way, you lose drive on that side.
The solution is to insert a 3mm o-ring into the outdrive cup to take up the slack. Tamiya has also suggested taking those red foam shock cap inserts, cutting them in half and using them the same way. O-rings are just easier.
The solution is to insert a 3mm o-ring into the outdrive cup to take up the slack. Tamiya has also suggested taking those red foam shock cap inserts, cutting them in half and using them the same way. O-rings are just easier.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-12-2017 at 07:34 PM.
08-13-2015 | 01:44 PM
"Vice" President? Sure. You're the power behind the throne and that makes Brad the Queen!
I'm gonna say yes.
I'm gonna say yes.
08-13-2015 | 02:18 PM
With the stock dogbones, or often with the TA03 ball diff and CVD axles, there's enough play for the axle to slip out of the outdrive cup, or the outdrive cup to slip out of the diff. Either way, you lose drive on that side.
The solution is to insert a 3mm o-ring into the outdrive cup to take up the slack. Tamiya has also suggested taking those red foam shock cap inserts, cutting them in half and using them the same way. O-rings are just easier.
The solution is to insert a 3mm o-ring into the outdrive cup to take up the slack. Tamiya has also suggested taking those red foam shock cap inserts, cutting them in half and using them the same way. O-rings are just easier.
08-13-2015 | 02:39 PM
Because I run the TA03 diffs (along with the M05 ball diffs) on my V2 on a tiny track requiring lock to lock often. No issue.
08-13-2015 | 05:36 PM
Yeah, I'm not sure why there is so much space between my universals and the outdrives, but there is. I don't think taking tight turns has any affect on whether the outdrives will pop out or not though, as mine will pop out going straight.
Last edited by Greg Sharpe; 08-13-2015 at 05:51 PM.
08-13-2015 | 06:04 PM