288LikesTamiya mini cooper
05-10-2015, 12:23 AM
I haven't built an M03 kit in ten years or so. So correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the stock rear block on the M03 a O degree block. That's the only rear block that doesn't cause body rubbing issues on the Rover body. We had to purchase an option part which was a 2 degree block. The aluminum rear blocks didn't arrive till much later. My current race car is well over ten years old and I bought it used with a servo installed and it's back up is nearly as old.
I believe we used the 0 degree rear blocks for quite awhile. What made this all work was the original Japan made type A slicks. We used to double stuff them in front-------2 inserts in the front tires. This made them very hard and along with the hard springs in vogue at the time, made a decent handling car. Most of the tuning was tire tuning and chassis tuning was not as critical.
The advent of chassis tuning came about primarily when the TCS Series went to a Spec tire and the Type A tires stopped being made in Japan. The non Japan Type A tire was pretty much junk so we went to the original S grips which were a harder tire than the current S grips. Each tire change caused a shift in how the chassis was set up. The current set up uses much softer springs than the ones used in the past and to the best of my knowledge, no current "fast guy" uses the Tamiya Mini springs.
Now, this may all change with the current rule which does not allow using cyano on the tires. I have not run under the current tire rules and suspect that stiffer springing may return, I started having health issues so have not tried running w/out glue or been out to the track for nearly a year now, so don't know what the current set ups are.
Any how, for those of you who grew up with the rc-mini web site for info, they did very little chassis tuning and did their tuning with tires. I believe Tony used to say it was 80% tires.
I believe we used the 0 degree rear blocks for quite awhile. What made this all work was the original Japan made type A slicks. We used to double stuff them in front-------2 inserts in the front tires. This made them very hard and along with the hard springs in vogue at the time, made a decent handling car. Most of the tuning was tire tuning and chassis tuning was not as critical.
The advent of chassis tuning came about primarily when the TCS Series went to a Spec tire and the Type A tires stopped being made in Japan. The non Japan Type A tire was pretty much junk so we went to the original S grips which were a harder tire than the current S grips. Each tire change caused a shift in how the chassis was set up. The current set up uses much softer springs than the ones used in the past and to the best of my knowledge, no current "fast guy" uses the Tamiya Mini springs.
Now, this may all change with the current rule which does not allow using cyano on the tires. I have not run under the current tire rules and suspect that stiffer springing may return, I started having health issues so have not tried running w/out glue or been out to the track for nearly a year now, so don't know what the current set ups are.
Any how, for those of you who grew up with the rc-mini web site for info, they did very little chassis tuning and did their tuning with tires. I believe Tony used to say it was 80% tires.
05-10-2015, 03:34 AM
What material are you using for the track? Can you please provide a link?
05-10-2015, 07:04 AM
I'm using the below. eBay "Overstock" store also has them for a cheaper price. http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Cal-Tuf...=rubber+runner
The good:
The texture looks like a scale size asphalt, and obviously no drifting like generic carpet.
I bought several rolls to fill my track for now, but expect to expand it later. It is easy to cut with a utility knife, lays down flat, does not slip, and does not stretch. The rolls are not super heavy when they arrive so one can do the work him/herself. My auto-x like track is 31ft x 10ft. It's a tight course for M-chassis but very technical and fun to drive. I'm looking forward to updating my MicroRS4's electronics and trying that as well.Important:
The surface has release oil from the mold, so needs to be scrubbed down real good with degreaser like Simplegreen before use.
For track marking, I have a few dozen track dots. I use motor spray to ensure that the surface is oil free before adhering the dots to the track with rolled up paper backed heavy duty packing tape. I am also using carpet mounting tape under the seams (parting lines) to ensure that the liners do not separate or lift.
The bad:
The runners have a pretty strong odor. I don't get headaches from it, but needs to be aired out. This is why I decided to get this now before temperature outside gets too hot to keep the windows open.
05-10-2015, 11:38 AM
I haven't built an M03 kit in ten years or so. So correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the stock rear block on the M03 a O degree block. That's the only rear block that doesn't cause body rubbing issues on the Rover body. We had to purchase an option part which was a 2 degree block. The aluminum rear blocks didn't arrive till much later. My current race car is well over ten years old and I bought it used with a servo installed and it's back up is nearly as old.
I believe we used the 0 degree rear blocks for quite awhile. What made this all work was the original Japan made type A slicks. We used to double stuff them in front-------2 inserts in the front tires. This made them very hard and along with the hard springs in vogue at the time, made a decent handling car. Most of the tuning was tire tuning and chassis tuning was not as critical.
The advent of chassis tuning came about primarily when the TCS Series went to a Spec tire and the Type A tires stopped being made in Japan. The non Japan Type A tire was pretty much junk so we went to the original S grips which were a harder tire than the current S grips. Each tire change caused a shift in how the chassis was set up. The current set up uses much softer springs than the ones used in the past and to the best of my knowledge, no current "fast guy" uses the Tamiya Mini springs.
Now, this may all change with the current rule which does not allow using cyano on the tires. I have not run under the current tire rules and suspect that stiffer springing may return, I started having health issues so have not tried running w/out glue or been out to the track for nearly a year now, so don't know what the current set ups are.
Any how, for those of you who grew up with the rc-mini web site for info, they did very little chassis tuning and did their tuning with tires. I believe Tony used to say it was 80% tires.
I believe we used the 0 degree rear blocks for quite awhile. What made this all work was the original Japan made type A slicks. We used to double stuff them in front-------2 inserts in the front tires. This made them very hard and along with the hard springs in vogue at the time, made a decent handling car. Most of the tuning was tire tuning and chassis tuning was not as critical.
The advent of chassis tuning came about primarily when the TCS Series went to a Spec tire and the Type A tires stopped being made in Japan. The non Japan Type A tire was pretty much junk so we went to the original S grips which were a harder tire than the current S grips. Each tire change caused a shift in how the chassis was set up. The current set up uses much softer springs than the ones used in the past and to the best of my knowledge, no current "fast guy" uses the Tamiya Mini springs.
Now, this may all change with the current rule which does not allow using cyano on the tires. I have not run under the current tire rules and suspect that stiffer springing may return, I started having health issues so have not tried running w/out glue or been out to the track for nearly a year now, so don't know what the current set ups are.
Any how, for those of you who grew up with the rc-mini web site for info, they did very little chassis tuning and did their tuning with tires. I believe Tony used to say it was 80% tires.
I can't imagine not gluing the sidewalls. Outdoors maybe. On carpet with traction compound? Wow.
The RC-mini crew tuned with tires, ride height and toe, mostly. Those really are the most important things
05-10-2015, 06:44 PM
Finally got around to mounting my new M01 body to my M05. Not sure how you guys were doing it, but I had to cut off the tail end of my M05 chassis so that the rear bumper section would wrap around the back 
, also change offsets front and rear -1mm. Honestly I could use another 0.5-1mm conservative offset on the front as it barely clears the back end of the front fender when I steer.
If I can find a thinner hex hub I can drop the front another 1mm in height for an even tighter look, but it looks great for now. No rubbing.
, also change offsets front and rear -1mm. Honestly I could use another 0.5-1mm conservative offset on the front as it barely clears the back end of the front fender when I steer.If I can find a thinner hex hub I can drop the front another 1mm in height for an even tighter look, but it looks great for now.
No rubbing.
05-10-2015, 10:31 PM
Find yourself a Blitz mini shell. I'm running the Jazz with 8mm hexes and still have room for a little more!
05-10-2015, 10:37 PM
05-11-2015, 01:13 AM
Honestly I could use another 0.5-1mm conservative offset on the front as it barely clears the back end of the front fender when I steer.
You might want to try the Tamiya Racing Mini Body, because it has got larger wheel arches.
05-11-2015, 01:32 AM
Original Mini ran 55D tyres, later M-Chassis were 60D. Therein lies your problem I would say.
05-11-2015, 07:27 AM
As I pointed out in my last post, The Rover Mini body only works with 0 degree rear blocks. If you are using 2 degree rear blocks the body will rub. It's in the first paragraph.
The clearances are so tight with the 60D tires, the small amount the 2 degree blocks move the rear wheels forward will cause all sorts of problems with fitting that body. I've never found a really "clean" solution that looked right, so moved on to other body types
The clearances are so tight with the 60D tires, the small amount the 2 degree blocks move the rear wheels forward will cause all sorts of problems with fitting that body. I've never found a really "clean" solution that looked right, so moved on to other body types
05-11-2015, 08:59 AM
I currently have the Rover Mini bodies that fit the M03 to V2. The one that didn't fit very well is an odd ball M01 body I bought recently.
I am going to start cutting and painting the roofs, arches, and front grill this week. I have 3 unpainted bodies right now, awaiting warmer weather outside to spray.
05-11-2015, 09:05 AM
Forgot to mention, I placed an order for another R614FF-E the other day, so I hope to update my M03's electronics. Right now it is using a ZPCM receiver with my JR R1/R1Pro I bought like 18-19yrs ago. It is heavy!
It is heavy!
05-11-2015, 09:09 AM
05-11-2015, 09:50 AM
So after some checking, I figured out which tires came with which kit.
50683 60D M-radial tires (M03, M05)
50568 M-chassis tires (M01)
53254 Super grip 60D (I use this mostly on my cars unless I get rear hop, then use 50683)
So I ordered the 50568 in hopes they are slightly less bulge vs the 53254 that are on my M05 right now.
50683 60D M-radial tires (M03, M05)
50568 M-chassis tires (M01)
53254 Super grip 60D (I use this mostly on my cars unless I get rear hop, then use 50683)
So I ordered the 50568 in hopes they are slightly less bulge vs the 53254 that are on my M05 right now.
Last edited by sakadachi; 05-11-2015 at 12:38 PM.
05-11-2015, 01:11 PM
So after some checking, I figured out which tires came with which kit.
50683 60D M-radial tires (M03, M05)
50568 M-chassis tires (M01)
53254 Super grip 60D (I use this mostly on my cars unless I get rear hop, then use 50683)
So I ordered the 50568 in hopes they are slightly less bulge vs the 53254 that are on my M05 right now.
50683 60D M-radial tires (M03, M05)
50568 M-chassis tires (M01)
53254 Super grip 60D (I use this mostly on my cars unless I get rear hop, then use 50683)
So I ordered the 50568 in hopes they are slightly less bulge vs the 53254 that are on my M05 right now.
You can bend the forward body mount and shift the whole body forward, but it's sort of touch and go on the front wheel wells then.
If you don't believe this happens, draw it out. Lay down a straight line, which would represent the ) degree hubs. Then draw a line 2 degrees offset from that and see where that would do to the tire and wheel. It moves forward.