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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 05-04-2015, 10:26 PM
  #23551  
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Well guys I think that for mini m-chassis cars running brushless 21.5t motors with timing, the Roar Rule limiting the rotor size to 12.5mm is not effective at all since you actually need a smaller rotor (11.5mm to 12mm) to take advantage of the low gearing(5.8fdr) and smaller tires... If you again add crazy timing to an already small rotor, then the rpms will shoot up to crazy levels...
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:48 AM
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In a random note besides the brushless talk, I've been running the cheap m-chassis Tamiya tires in my basement track on one of my 4WD cars (the tires that come with the M03, M05 kits) and noticed that gunk do not stick to the surface of the tires.

This is great because I will not have to scrape stuff off AND price is 1/2 the 60D's.
The grip is good enough that I can make this car traction roll, so I'm okay with it.
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:39 AM
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Sakadichi,
this "gunk" you speak of ...is it from tire traction (root-beer) that they lay down on the track? I've noticed that at some tracks I get a bit of round gunk blobs that develop in areas on my tire ...but it's minimal. I always attributed it to too much root-beer or something ...but it's never been a problem w/ slicks/treads, or any tire type for me.

are other drivers at your track having the same issue??
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Old 05-05-2015, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by eR1c
Sakadichi,
this "gunk" you speak of ...is it from tire traction (root-beer) that they lay down on the track? I've noticed that at some tracks I get a bit of round gunk blobs that develop in areas on my tire ...but it's minimal. I always attributed it to too much root-beer or something ...but it's never been a problem w/ slicks/treads, or any tire type for me.

are other drivers at your track having the same issue??
Well, the only other driver is my kid and he drives my M-chassis and encounter the same problem on the 60D's. I think it's something to do with the low pile carpet I am using + Trinity BlackDot (StickyFingers).

Hopefully by end of this month I will have new rubber flooring in my basement track that will prevent this from happening ever again!!
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Old 05-05-2015, 12:56 PM
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Traction compound softens/melts rubber and it builds up on the tread. This happens in 1:1 race cars too, but it's heat melting those.

Simple Green and a nylon bristled scrub brush will clean them up.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:50 PM
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yes, my process between each race/heat is to wipe each tire w/ simple green then go over w/ traction compound.

...good call on the simple green.
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Old 05-05-2015, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Traction compound softens/melts rubber and it builds up on the tread. This happens in 1:1 race cars too, but it's heat melting those.

Simple Green and a nylon bristled scrub brush will clean them up.
Originally Posted by eR1c
yes, my process between each race/heat is to wipe each tire w/ simple green then go over w/ traction compound.

...good call on the simple green.
Thanks guys! I have SimpleGreen. I will give it a shot vs scraping...
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Old 05-06-2015, 07:09 PM
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Default Body for Trans Am 2.0l

Anyone know if a manufacturer ever made a Ford Pinto body(M-chassis size) I was pondering doing something different and came across the fact that there were several Pintos in the Trans Am 2.0 class. (please, no smarta$$ comments). I am just tired of all the Mini Coopers and Datsun 510's etc.
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by gerrbear
Anyone know if a manufacturer ever made a Ford Pinto body(M-chassis size) I was pondering doing something different and came across the fact that there were several Pintos in the Trans Am 2.0 class. (please, no smarta$$ comments). I am just tired of all the Mini Coopers and Datsun 510's etc.
You do realize you are posting this in a Tamiya Mini Coopers thread.

I love my Rover Mini bodies by Tamiya I would have it no other way.
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:02 AM
  #23560  
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Originally Posted by gerrbear
Anyone know if a manufacturer ever made a Ford Pinto body(M-chassis size) I was pondering doing something different and came across the fact that there were several Pintos in the Trans Am 2.0 class. (please, no smarta$$ comments). I am just tired of all the Mini Coopers and Datsun 510's etc.
I cant recall one, Banzai, Rcmart, TQ and eBay are the best places for bodies.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by gerrbear
Anyone know if a manufacturer ever made a Ford Pinto body(M-chassis size) I was pondering doing something different and came across the fact that there were several Pintos in the Trans Am 2.0 class. (please, no smarta$$ comments). I am just tired of all the Mini Coopers and Datsun 510's etc.
There are many other bodies available-----some are infrequently seen, since you seem to be looking for those. HPI made a couple of nice bodies, a 240Z and a Porsche Carrera. ABC has a bunch of bodies, although the sticker sheets aren't the best. There are also a lot of aftermarket, non scale bodies that are for the most part ugly. But some like them.

I will have to admit that I've never seen a Pinto body. It's not common so that's probably due to a lack of demand for this particular body style
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:45 AM
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Hi all, it's been a while

I've been running my M03 for a while now, after moving on from my M05 and M05 V2, and having better results. My local club is dominated by M03's on the fairly small and twisty Prima GT carpet track, so I thought I'd try the M03.

Anyway, my car is very good, can't complain about the speed or handling, however what I don't like about the 3 is the tendency to wander from side to side on the straight, very annoying. Diff is maintainded and always has the same tightness and smooth feel (extra shims etc), Tamiya alloy servo horn and hop up saver, slight toe out at ride height, 0 degree rear hubs, 60d M grips. Is the wandering around simply the minus side to having the tight diff? We run the Mardave G2 motor (24t brushed) NIMH cells and my car is at the 1250gms lower weight limit.

Cheers

Last edited by Boons; 05-08-2015 at 04:45 AM.
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Boons
Hi all, it's been a while

I've been running my M03 for a while now, after moving on from my M05 and M05 V2, and having better results. My local club is dominated by M03's on the fairly small and twisty Prima GT carpet track, so I thought I'd try the M03.

Anyway, my car is very good, can't complain about the speed or handling, however what I don't like about the 3 is the tendency to wander from side to side on the straight, very annoying. Diff is maintainded and always has the same tightness and smooth feel (extra shims etc), Tamiya alloy servo horn and hop up saver, slight toe out and ride out, 0 degree rear hubs, 60d M grips. Is the wandering around simply the minus side to having the tight diff? We run the Mardave G2 motor (24t brushed) NIMH cells and my car is at the 1250gms lower weight limit.

Cheers
It's probably the servo saver. I've tried the aluminum servo horn for the M03 and found that there is a bit of play around center. It's actually worse than the stock one.

I went round and round with someone a few pages back on this very subject. IMO the best servo saver for the M03 is the large Kimbrough. You'll have to drill new holes in the servo arm to get the geometry right. Use your aluminum horn as a guide and you should come pretty close.

Another reason may be the 0 degree rear hubs-----try a 1 degree rear hub and that should help. You won't lose that much on the turn in, but it will help since your back end will be more under control.

And if you shimmed out all the play in the front, believe it or not, this can cause the car to jump from side to side. This is more of a "twitch" than wander. Hope that makes sense to you.
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:19 AM
  #23564  
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I just switched from short to long wheelbase. I notice that running long wheelbase you don't use an extra piece of plastic for the rear body mount. Not using that body mount piece and screws saves 10grams of weight. I had not known that but love that I can now place that 10grams where I want.
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by eR1c
I just switched from short to long wheelbase. I notice that running long wheelbase you don't use an extra piece of plastic for the rear body mount. Not using that body mount piece and screws saves 10grams of weight. I had not known that but love that I can now place that 10grams where I want.
I'm sure that 10grams is a night/day difference!

Boons- While my M03 does not wander with a silver can running 210mm wheel base, I'd try the 1 degree toe-in on the rear as well.

Also a tad more toe out might help too on the front. Is that wandering during on/off throttle or just full throttle?
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