I've always felt that the cause of rear end skipping is a lack of droop in the rear suspension. Assuming you have used the equivalent mounting positions on the Yeah racing hubs as you had on the Tamiya parts.

Jim,
I knew parts for the new MO5 V2 would be hard to obtain for awhile, so I purchased two kits. Assembling one and the other is still sealed, but ready to be canabilised if required. Overkill possibly, but have readily accessible spares.
Just the way I roll.
Regards,
Calvin.

Thanks voodoo, I got an update today saying the rules have been amended.

I'm looking at getting some TRF shocks, but the new TRF short shocks are also suitable for the mini ( part No 42273) These also have adjustable collars unlike the std Mini shocks.

Has anyone else tried these yet?

I would purchase the newer TRF mini shocks, rather than the 54000. I am finding that the 54000 shocks have a shorter shaft than the kit supplied items in the new MO5 V2. Even without the o ring under the piston, the length is shorter. I know you can just wind up the droop screw but defeats the purpose of being able to have fully adjustable droop.

They are perfect for a Mini. IMO much better than the #54000.

You're right in that too little droop can cause rear end hop, but there are many, many other causes. Most of these are individual to the specific car. Just increasing the droop won't stop rear end hop----sorta depends on how much droop you had to start with. It isn't as simple as that.

Doesn't it finds a shop where I can buy one..?

99% of the high end brushed escs have been out of production for five years - very hard to find in shops unless you go to a back street shop with loads of old stock and an owner that hasn't heard of eBay...

eR1c is correct, I still have a QC3 if your interested?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-sell-off.html

If you have your heart set on a KO, go to the KO Propo America website. Expensive, but the best.

Stormer Hobbies shows the they have one Tekin FX Pro in stock. madjack has an LRP Q3 that I know works cause I've raced him.

Thanks, gonna order these :)

These comments are for lower grip asphalt tracks and not for carpet.

Use the 3 hole pistons and leave out the red sponge. You'll have to use 2mm more of spacers than you would on the #54000shocks cause the shock bodies are 2mm longer. This is why this shock is smoother than the shorter 54000. Build them as a 0 rebound shock. With new bladders this is impossible to do, so drill a #60 hole in the plastic end cap to bleed the trapped air. Depending on the amount of droop you want, the shocks should be 56-58mm in overall length, measuring from end to end.

If the above isn't clear, you can PM me on the subject. I've posted this stuff before and just don't have the patience anymore to discuss this with those who don't agree with my methodology.

Speaking of which, guys, this is not legal for the TCS Series, so for those that are competing, don't do it.

Yeah! What he said. Don't modify the shock parts. :ha: