fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

Got some good track time in today and tried a tons of different things. Most seemed to not change the handling of the car. Until I went back to my original setup and changed shock oils. At this point 32.5wt oil seems to be really close to where it needs to be. Will know for sure next race day.

Jason

Granpa

Good lesson learned here. When all else fails, go back to your base set up and start over. The base set up for me is one that is easy to drive and very stable. It doesn't have to be a "fast" set up cause those tend to be a little "tricky" to drive. Your race set up is built off of the base set up.

The switch to 21.5 motors has given me all sorts of problems, cause my base set up did not work with the 21.5 motors. I'd been using the same basic set up for nearly 5 years and it was letting me down. So like you, I tried a ton of different things and came up with something that works FOR ME. Since it was only developed yesterday, it's hard to say if it's a safe enough set up to be my go to one when everything turns to junk.

fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

Saturday I was open to anything Cee Lo or Daniel offered. Some helped and some didn't due to the subtle differences in our cars. I had hop ups they didn't, they had hop ups I didn't which I didn't think was possible considering how many my mini has. Cee Lo has an 03 while Daniel has a 05 Gold with other hop ups. But in the end the items that helped were added to the base setup. All in all the help that you and they gave me got me to get the mini where it is. It is alot more reactive that it used to be and more along the line of how my touring car handles which I like. Makes it easier to transition from one class to the other when racing locally.

Jason

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Good advice, guys. Having a base to return to when you get frustrated is always a plus. I've found remembering to breathe to be equally important.

My 05 Gold has been a much better car since I baselined it back to standard M05 form. Normal lower shock mounting positions, regular rear suspension mount, etc. It just wasn't working on our carpet when built per instructions. Now it's a twitchy little bullet.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

my mo5 rabbit should be here any day (tomorrow i hope). any build tips i need to know or things i should do before i button up the gearbox? reccomended gear lube etc. should i get the high speed gear set (not tcs legal) or would the standard gear set be ok? i have the works shocks, steering blecranks and drag link coming. anything else i should upgrade before i hit the asphalt? and what tires are reccomended? im looking at the ride treaded tires and some of the inchup slicks. but will run the tcs spec tires at our tcs race. any tips will be helpful. my last mini was the m01. so that was along time ago.

marcos graveyar

A good quality servo saver to keep it running straight.

Boons

I think I heard some guys talking of using silicone. I can see how that could make the gears spin more freely than grease, but wouldn't the gears need regular maintenance? Although I know some guys run the gears dry........

Cheers!

pizzaboy192

iTrader: (2)

I've tried the graphite lock lube and it works really well, but you need to avoid getting it into your motor or it'll kill it. Silicone spray or electronics cleaner work well too. The M03 has the gear access hole which you just pop open, stuff the straw in, and shoot a few sprays of silicone in. Works wonders.

SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

I just picked up a ABC Hobby Mini pickup.

I cut it out and drilled the holes for the body posts. I lined them up perfect, but I can't get the rear low enough. The rear posts don't allow it to go any lower.

Are there any other body posts with the same style and bend that will work?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Not sure if the bend is the same, but I've used M03 front posts on the rear, when using a lower profile shell.

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

if you want to lube the gears, try Tamiya Ceramic Grease... apply it using a cotton bud so the gears are coated evenly and thinly so it doesn't get spun off when running.

for tires, try m-grip/s-grip or s-grip/s-grip with the red spring in front and blue at the rear.

if budget allows, go for a TA03/MantaRay ball diff and crank it down as tight as you can when building it.

hths

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Okay here is a general question
How many of you balance your tires and what type of device do you use???
I've heard about using prop balancers and regular rc tire balancers, which do you use?

Granpa

This is another one of those "things" that sounds as if it would be a good idea. In practice though, it may not make enough of a difference to be noticeable. I tend to question things and don't necessarily go with the conventional wisdom or what seems to be intuitively correct.

In order to test this, I took a bunch of tires and wheels, mounted them on one of the rear axles of a Mini, then spun it up using a blast of air. This test was done several years ago, but can tell you that not one sample exhibited enough vibration to warrant balancing.

Another thing to consider is that inserts tend to shift inside the tire. So, if you get it perfectly balanced, run it, it will be out of balance and need to be done again.

Now to those who do balance their tires and believe it's a good idea, I'm not saying it's not. I believe that it doesn't make enough of a difference to be noticed by a vast majority of Mini racers.

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

Hello Jason, any chance you can direct me to where I can get a working version of the M05 and M03 set-up sheet. thanks

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

Hey guys I know many have been trying different 21.5's to try and find the "right" motor. So far, I've run the R1, Phanton Killshot, and Reedy Mach 2. Frankly its troubling that each have so many variables (ie: different rotors, stators, timing ranges, etc) What I've found that works the best is the broad band rotors (not sure if i should have geared down with the high rpm rotor as I ran a 20t pinion for all)

The Reedy seems to offer the best balance between torque and rpm. Not sure if this is the absolute best, but its just opinion at this stage. Just came back from the TCS race at Horsham this past weekend and although happy with the results, disappointed I did not get to practice earlier switching from my M05 to M03 and not getting to fully test all the motors I have. Planning on a practice weekend in a few weeks to further weed out the best motor for my driving style.

On a separate note, I know we're all expected to run blinky mode. So i purchased a hobby wing just stock speedo for the M03. Does anyone have any experience with this speedo and how does it compare to a tekin rs? other than the price! I still wish Tamiya would release a spec motor and speedo