288LikesTamiya mini cooper
03-02-2014, 07:22 PM
The new generation S-Grip premounts are a lot softer than the old tires. For most it's instant traction roll if you don't cyano the sidewalls of the fronts. Some will cyano the rears also, but some don't.
If you feel the sidewalls, they fold right over with very little pressure. They also wear out much quicker than the old ones. Once properly treated with glue, they'll give you some good lap times.
If you feel the sidewalls, they fold right over with very little pressure. They also wear out much quicker than the old ones. Once properly treated with glue, they'll give you some good lap times.
03-02-2014, 07:38 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Has anyone had success running a Tamiya TA03-RS with a LWB M03\05 body? Does it work, or would it be better to get regular TC bodies?
03-02-2014, 09:00 PM
My m03 was somewhere between awful (early) and tolerable (late) but not perfect today. Which is more than I can say for my FF. I learned a whole lot about setting up FWD today, or at least how to fix problems.
Can't wait to test again.
03-02-2014, 09:01 PM
Fronts----glue outside rib plus the sidewall
Rears-----just the sidewall
Actually, how you glue the tires sorta depends on your set up and how the car's handling. I think you've been around for awhile so won't presume to tell you how to do this. But, you do have to do the fronts to the edge of the 1st rib or it's no good at all. Whether you do the insides or the rears just depends on whether your car is "loose" or "tight".
03-02-2014, 09:24 PM
It's much easier to use the standard tire glue rather than the thin. The thin just runs all over the place, but the medium needs to "smeared" in to place.
Fronts----glue outside rib plus the sidewall
Rears-----just the sidewall
Actually, how you glue the tires sorta depends on your set up and how the car's handling. I think you've been around for awhile so won't presume to tell you how to do this. But, you do have to do the fronts to the edge of the 1st rib or it's no good at all. Whether you do the insides or the rears just depends on whether your car is "loose" or "tight".
Fronts----glue outside rib plus the sidewall
Rears-----just the sidewall
Actually, how you glue the tires sorta depends on your set up and how the car's handling. I think you've been around for awhile so won't presume to tell you how to do this. But, you do have to do the fronts to the edge of the 1st rib or it's no good at all. Whether you do the insides or the rears just depends on whether your car is "loose" or "tight".
03-03-2014, 01:41 AM
Had a very frustrating days racing at our indoor series on Saturday. Set TQ for round 1 and then failed to finish rounds 2 and 3 and each of the 3 A Final legs.
My car runs Spektrum radio/micro receiver, Savox 1251MG servo, Teu105Bk ESC, Sport Tuned Black Can motor, 7.2V 3700mah NiMh cells. I run a 3Racing Motor cooling fan from the Aux port of the receiver and have a glitch buster plugged into the bind port.
In Round 2 the car stopped after 290 seconds, no forward/reverse power but front wheels were able to steer, the ESC and Motor were hot. The gearbox had started to make a noise so before leg 3 I stripped it and found some bent teeth on the intermediate gear, replaced it and rebuilt it.
This time the car only ran for 100 seconds before stopping, after 40 secondss rest it started responding again but only went for a further 75 seconds. A fellow racer measured the temp of the motor/esc at 61 degrees.
For the first leg of the Finals I changed the Esc to a TEU104BK , the car stopped after 130 seconds, rested for 60 seconds and then ran for 70 seconds before coming to a halt again, each time this happens the steering is still working.
I changed the motor for leg 2, car stopped after 120 seconds. ESC/Motor temp 53 deg.
For the last leg of the final I changed to my spare car, It's SWB instead of LWB with same radio set up, savox 1256, 105ESC, no glitch buster, no fan.
I ran the original motor from the qualifying. Got as far as lap 17 and after 245 seconds the car stopped again.
Many of the guys racing use a similar setup to mine yet I was the only one who had any problem during the day. The same car has been faultless throughout the 9 previous rounds of the championship at the same venue this year.
Any thoughts ?
My car runs Spektrum radio/micro receiver, Savox 1251MG servo, Teu105Bk ESC, Sport Tuned Black Can motor, 7.2V 3700mah NiMh cells. I run a 3Racing Motor cooling fan from the Aux port of the receiver and have a glitch buster plugged into the bind port.
In Round 2 the car stopped after 290 seconds, no forward/reverse power but front wheels were able to steer, the ESC and Motor were hot. The gearbox had started to make a noise so before leg 3 I stripped it and found some bent teeth on the intermediate gear, replaced it and rebuilt it.
This time the car only ran for 100 seconds before stopping, after 40 secondss rest it started responding again but only went for a further 75 seconds. A fellow racer measured the temp of the motor/esc at 61 degrees.
For the first leg of the Finals I changed the Esc to a TEU104BK , the car stopped after 130 seconds, rested for 60 seconds and then ran for 70 seconds before coming to a halt again, each time this happens the steering is still working.
I changed the motor for leg 2, car stopped after 120 seconds. ESC/Motor temp 53 deg.
For the last leg of the final I changed to my spare car, It's SWB instead of LWB with same radio set up, savox 1256, 105ESC, no glitch buster, no fan.
I ran the original motor from the qualifying. Got as far as lap 17 and after 245 seconds the car stopped again.
Many of the guys racing use a similar setup to mine yet I was the only one who had any problem during the day. The same car has been faultless throughout the 9 previous rounds of the championship at the same venue this year.
Any thoughts ?
03-03-2014, 02:28 AM
the 104 and 105 esc's tend to become problematic after some time. the 101 is actually more reliable. but if you could use a "higher end" esc, i would suggest you go for it. 
also, i remember spektrum having some glitching problems when running along with 2.4G Futaba's and Sanwa's (TITC 2011 i think...)
hths
also, i remember spektrum having some glitching problems when running along with 2.4G Futaba's and Sanwa's (TITC 2011 i think...)
hths
03-03-2014, 04:23 AM
Get rid of the spektrum
spektrum+savox=
spektrum+savox=
03-03-2014, 07:24 AM
Have to use the kit Tamiya ESC's.
Anybody know what level the thermal cut-ouy is on the 104/105?
Anybody know what level the thermal cut-ouy is on the 104/105?
03-03-2014, 08:24 AM
...
03-03-2014, 08:25 AM
03-03-2014, 08:57 AM
Any suggestions for a replacement for the Savox ?
03-03-2014, 09:01 AM
Tech Adept
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I think you need to look at the gearbox/drive system again. Something may be causing a drag resulting in hot motor and ESC. Just a guess.
Good luck.
Good luck.
03-03-2014, 09:07 AM
03-03-2014, 09:12 AM
Wouldn't it be a lot easier to get rid of the Savox? With one of the upgrade receivers, Spektrum no glitch, which wasn't mentioned as a problem anyway.