Bozla, toe out will vary depending on your ride height too. Any FWD cars (even real ones) tend to pull the leading edge of the front wheels in toward the centre of the car under acceleration. So, what looks like toe-out, becomes toe-in when accellerating.
Our cars are set so that they have about 1-2 degrees toe-out (i.e. not much) at rest and fully loaded. This translates to almost dead straight under power.
If you want a bit more steering, then dial in a few more degrees of toe-out.

What motors were you guys running on the tennis court track? Very nice track by the way.

Aussie Mini rules state Tamiya Black Sport-Tuned motors, thats what we run all the time.
But they look a lot quicker than that when you're down close to them I must say!

m03m body
 

got a close to done Suzuki m03m body 4 sale make a offer

Cool they looked really fast on the video :)

But if you're out in front, never fast enough Keith!

True :nod:

Thanks for the reply!
I've taken the toe off a bit, but if I don't get the turn in I'll put it back to factory. I just recieved the esc I got second hand for it, but it doesn't seem to work so I'll have to take my other to see if it'll work. Don't suppose any of you guys have used a super vortex 107 by sanwa? Its kinda old but just seems to get warm and do nothing. I think it's probably fried.

chatter/noise
 

[QUOTE=tony gray]Miniman, do you have the internal spacer in the shocks? If so I'd take it out, rougher surfaces need the extra down-travel. But your spring and oil set-up is fine as is.
Set your ride height according to the specs on our website and you should be bang on the money.

Thanks Tony, great website by the way! that mini rally looks like good fun.

I got universals (53597) for my M03M, now im getting alot of chatter/roughness on full left and right turns. is that normal i because i dialled down the turn radius and still get some chatter.

mo3m
 

just got a mo3m body done got 1 more to do what do u think

Nice, very nice! I like the colors! :D

[QUOTE=minimanintaiwan]maybe you forgot to put o rings inside the drive cup? im just guessing :)

Yeah I'm with Sup, that's about all I can think it might be.... Uni's rarely give any problems.

what are the different characteristics between all the M chassis? im thinking of getting one, but i want to know whats the difference between them all. i also want to get the most durable one. i want to do some bashing and i dont really feel like replacing parts, especially since the lhs here doesn't stock tamiya stuff.
edit: actually, im reading up on them on that rc-mini site but any input would be appreciated anyways.

the swift is front wheel drive and is a mid length it is the best of both worlds, it also has the updated suspension, the has the stronger knuckles, and toe in rear uprights it also comes with 8 of the 14 bearings needed