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Lot's of reasons that this can occur. These are just a few. Do the easy corrections first. One of the first things I'd try would be to swap motors with the other car.
1. Bad motor or could need new brushes and a comm cut 2. Esc may need to be reset 3. Worn out tranny gears especially since you were using a more powerful motor than a Silvercan 4. Slipping diff---not usually a problem with a gear diff but you were having some weird handling problems 5. Binding or drag in the drive train 6. Tx throttle settings may be off 7. Bad solder joints No. 6 is a curve ball. Some esc use 100 for full throttle and others use 150. Depends on the esc and the TX. |
Originally Posted by Granpa
(Post 12696895)
Lot's of reasons that this can occur. These are just a few. Do the easy corrections first. One of the first things I'd try would be to swap motors with the other car.
1. Bad motor or could need new brushes and a comm cut 2. Esc may need to be reset 3. Worn out tranny gears especially since you were using a more powerful motor than a Silvercan 4. Slipping diff---not usually a problem with a gear diff but you were having some weird handling problems 5. Binding or drag in the drive train 6. Tx throttle settings may be off 7. Bad solder joints No. 6 is a curve ball. Some esc use 100 for full throttle and others use 150. Depends on the esc and the TX. 2. Probably. New TX|RX unit. May need a new programming. 3. Just swapped all gears for the reinforced set after chewing up my last set. 4. could be as well. May have to finally bite the bullet and build one from scratch instead of using used prebuilt ones. 5. Could also be. I may just swap front ends with the spare parts chassis, and see what happens. 6. Haven't played around with the trims for throttle yet on my TX. It's a FlySky one, so it shouldn't take too long to figure out. It's set at max rate, so we'll see with that. Might just need to reprogram the ESC 7. Could easily be. There's no solder between motor and ESC that I did (none at all on motor, connectors between motor and ESC are crimp bullets) and the solder from the ESC is very professional. I haven't yet touched it. Might be the solder that I did for the battery connector though. I really botched that. Thanks! I'll look into it. As for the pinions, I run a 20T on my Mini, so if her's is any other pinion it means I need to clean my stuff out more often. I am assuming hers is a 20T as well. |
Team Associated has several LRP brushed speed controls on closeout for less than a set of tires, in case anyone is looking for one that doesn't have reverse.
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
(Post 12698333)
Team Associated has several LRP brushed speed controls on closeout for less than a set of tires, in case anyone is looking for one that doesn't have reverse.
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Originally Posted by back9monsta
(Post 12695528)
I was able to test new links this weekend, the shorter link definitely improves the cornering of the car. Must have hop up.
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Originally Posted by pizzaboy192
(Post 12698365)
Would you be able to post a link for those of us who don't know our way around the RC world yet?
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what body options do i have for a medium wheelbase M05 aside from the swift and abarth? which is better for racing?
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Originally Posted by silverbmr
(Post 12699612)
what body options do i have for a medium wheelbase M05 aside from the swift and abarth? which is better for racing?
The LWB cars used the Cooper S or the BMW bodies. The new Coupe is a favorite of Dave Weir's, but I've never had it handle the way the other two do. It in my hands was not as "comfortable" to drive. Again these comments are limited to the Tamiya USA track which is outdoor asphalt. Carpet may be different. |
Again these comments are limited to the Tamiya USA track which is outdoor asphalt. Carpet may be different. |
2 Attachment(s)
I found the Tamiya CR-X to work well on the M03 or M05, not as tall and boxy as the Swift and the Abarth.
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Haha, love the Raybrig theme!
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Originally Posted by Tim K
(Post 12700327)
I found the Tamiya CR-X to work well on the M03 or M05, not as tall and boxy as the Swift and the Abarth.
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Originally Posted by Granpa
(Post 12699838)
If you're sticking to the Tamiya bodies, the Swift is the body of choice. The Abarth is just plain nasty. Most of the MWB cars at the TCS Nats used the Swift for good reason. It just "works" better.
The LWB cars used the Cooper S or the BMW bodies. The new Coupe is a favorite of Dave Weir's, but I've never had it handle the way the other two do. It in my hands was not as "comfortable" to drive. Again these comments are limited to the Tamiya USA track which is outdoor asphalt. Carpet may be different. Hey Granpa. Can you explain the feeling in handling difference between the Swift and the Abart (Corso) Regards Robert |
Originally Posted by monkeyracing
(Post 12699876)
You should make this your signature, Bob. It seems to be saving you a lot of grief!
Also, much of what I post is what I've learned from running with the Mini Mafia at the Tamiya track. My posts are just an opinion and if it differs from someone else's it's never been personal. |
Originally Posted by Robert_K
(Post 12700772)
Hey Granpa.
Can you explain the feeling in handling difference between the Swift and the Abart (Corso) Regards Robert The Abarth is very difficult to find a balance with and can change from corner to corner. Also stuff can happen quickly. Basically, it's damned "twitchy". The Swift doesn't have any "nasty" characteristics. Also the little wing on it can be removed without much if any change in the handling. I always use it, but some of the Mini Mafia here do without it. The CRX seems to fall between these two bodies. I borrowed one, ran a few laps with it, and promptly returned it. Just did not like it. Locally, the "faster" guys liked it more than the slower guys like me did. What's interesting is that when it really mattered, everyone with a MWB, used a Swift. |
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